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December 18th, 2009, 10:10 PM   #1
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DIY Tubeless

The mad NAHA style hillclimb bikes almost all use 6-8 stainless self tappers each side through the rim into the tyre bead as rimlocks.

Ive seen this setup firsthand handle 160RWHP driving 16 and 19 paddle scat track dominator tyres with bolts in deep sand.

Im using this idea on my rear wheel without a tube. early days yet but it seem to work well.



the tricky bit is to get the bead to seat, I used 2 types of screws 1 long but small diameter set to reach down into the bead and pull it up while puming air in then once seated remove these screws and replace with bigger diameter ones, 8 per side

I put 200ml of that green tyre slime in with 80psi, it came out everywhere for a while while I spun the tyre. lost 10psi overnight, more spinning and most of the leaks stopped. Its a new tyre with the bead in good condition, haven't added bolts to the paddles yet.

the rimlock and valve hole I tapped to take the thread on the removable shrader valves that come in tractor tyre tubes. the screws in these pics are a bit small, the bigger ones grab the bead better.





it does leak a bit, about 2 psi/day I'm running 20Psi in these paddles. will update after I get some more time on it
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DIY Tubeless-tube-less-003.jpg   DIY Tubeless-tube-less-002.jpg   DIY Tubeless-tube-less-001.jpg  
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December 19th, 2009, 01:49 PM   #2
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Re: DIY Tubeless

I like your thinking, push bike riders have been glueing their tyres to their rims for years (clinchers), maybe a glue or silastic on the bead used with slime would be a winner?
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December 19th, 2009, 01:53 PM   #3
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RE: Re: DIY Tubeless

yeah something like that should be better the tyre slime is very good at sealing rubber/rubber but not so good metal/rubber

still, the more I ride it the better it seals off. can't beileve it works at all really
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December 20th, 2009, 03:25 AM   #4
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With the beads secured with screws limping home should be safer if you do get a puncture, keeping the beads in place. The slime would seal many punctures as they occur. I'd not be surprised if your DIY tubeless is more reliable than using a conventional inner tube and rim locks. When it comes to inertia and acceleration, whatever weight is saved in the wheels is worth a lot, tyres have not only to accelerate laterally but also rotationally and they are very large compared to most other parts of the motorcycle. You do not need to use rim locks any longer do you?, another weight saving. Those self tappers together do not even look as heavy as one rim lock. Once upon a time when i was fit and strong I had a racing bicycle that used tube tyres, non clinching tyres, they were extremely light but were scary if you did not glue them in place, it could have been common rubber glue or some special stuff but it sure looked and smelled like ordinary rubber glue, anyway, it should help with the sealing. Have you done anything special to make the spoke nippulae seal?
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December 20th, 2009, 01:07 PM   #5
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nothing special at all for the spokes, might need to do something

hot day yesterday and no riding the tyre is flat overnight, it only seems to work if you spin it regulary

there is a rubber glue called A and B rubber compound made by tip top the german company making the good tyre patches,

there is a sikaflex glue for installing car windscreens that remains semi set, a gooey flexible mess, sounds good.

also some supaglues with rubber fillers but I thinkj they are too brittle.
the mountain bikers make a special mix of slime with soluable latex, detergent, water, slime and some boiled goldfish tails

light tube + rimlock is about 700gm the slime is 200gm and the screws less than 50.

saving is 450gm lighter than a Tubliss or light tube and about 2kg over a HD tube w 2 rimlocks

the reason I tried it is when you put bolts through the paddles to stop them being ripped off at the base,
the bolts can squash the tube,
the hilclimbers put big rubber patches over the inside of the bolt heads but in time the tube still gets hammered by
the squashing if you hit a rock exactly on a paddle for instance.

it works OK with a 3.5 inch wide rim as there is more room for the bolts but on my 2.15 ich rim the tube
gets squashed between the inner surface of the tyre and the the bolts
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December 21st, 2009, 01:29 AM   #6
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I like where this is heading, you will probably find the air is leaking out via the spokes. That sikaflex stuff or silastic would work great for sealing the spokes i think
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December 23rd, 2009, 01:08 PM   #7
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checked in a water trough the leaks are from the bead near the screws, spokes are fine

the screws thread through the rim and the tyre bead so you can't tighten them in the bead to pull the tyre right out they tighten in the rim.

if they don't tighten in the rim they come loose, might need to drill out the holes a bit and glue the screws in.

as long as I ride every day it stays up looses about 0.5psi/ day now.

I'd drill 10 holes/side next time to better hold the bead, it hasn't come loose but for the sake of 2 extra holes/screws it'd look more secure.

next gotta test with bolts through the paddles.
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December 24th, 2009, 01:54 PM   #8
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I'm keen to try something like this when i'm due for a new tire. Not overly keen to drill holes in my shiny blue berg rims so i might try to find a spare rim to try it on.
going to try using pushbike tire glue on the bead, no tube, tubeless valve, small amount of slime and possibly seal around the spokes with some silastic
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December 25th, 2009, 01:41 PM   #9
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bushmechanic, are you still using a light tube and rim lock?
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December 25th, 2009, 02:13 PM   #10
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no tube or rimlock

the screws are plenty enough for 160HP, no rimlock will handle that
the problem with the screws is that its tricky to stop them from going into the tube if you're using one,

with no tube, the screws can go right through the bead no problems and no rimlock needed.

the spokes don't leak, they did for a while some even through the spoke thread/ nipple thread but soon stopped.
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