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July 21st, 2008, 11:06 PM   #1
dz1
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A few questions about FE600 1997

Hello,

I am a proud new owner of a FE600 1997 (without electric starter). Unfortunately I have some questions about my new ride that I cant answer myself.

1. It doesn’t have a manual decomp. Should it have one? The previous owner told me that it has a full automatic decomp but since it is really really really hard to kickstart it I am starting to believe that it hasn’t got a decomp at all.
2. I have a Mikuni carb but as far as I could find, it should have a Delloroto carb. Can anyone guess the model of the Mikuni carb since I probably need to find a manual for it.
3. Where could I find a wiring scheme? It hasn’t got any lights (no break lights, no turn lights, no head lights), so I really need a wiring scheme.
4. Is it possible to add a battery to it to improve the spark when kickstarting? I believe that the spark is too weak when I kickstart it and that’s why it doesn’t start (yes I have changed the spark plug). When someone pushes me it starts after a few “thumpsâ€
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July 22nd, 2008, 08:46 AM   #2
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RE: A few questions about FE600 1997

hi dz, welcome to the site.
i had a 98 400 kickstart model which i believe is similar to your 97 600. it only had the kickstart decomp that you could see on the outside and the autodecomp mounted on the cam. if the k/s decomp is working correctly, you will hear a click as you return the k/s lever back to the top of its throw. it will then kick thru more easily. although kicking my 98 600 estart was like kicking thru mud. make sure your valve settings are right and it wouldn't hurt to pull the carb apart to see what jets are in there as a point of reference. chances are that its a tm pro series mikuni as they were a popular replacement for the dellorto.
the parts and owners manuals are downloadable from the www.husaberg.se site.
it would also be a good idea to go to the owners doc at the left margin and get the resistance values for your stator. they were a known high failure item. if yours is so, our boy sparks can fix you up with a rewind.
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July 22nd, 2008, 09:06 AM   #3
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It appears that you do not have the kickstart activated decompression system which non-estart models should have. More pics of this area please...





You possibly have an e-start model that the starter has been removed.

Also a picture of the front of the motor would be helpful.
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July 22nd, 2008, 08:11 PM   #4
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I previously did not look at pic #3. The frame and motor certainly appear to be of the non-estart variety all right.

There should be a cable running from the kicksart gear area up to a rocker arm lever.

Perhaps pull the tank and see whats there.

Pic #2 that shows a hex nut next to the exhaust rocker looks exactly like mine which is an e-start model and did not come with a kick start activated decompression system.
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July 22nd, 2008, 11:39 PM   #5
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Fairly sure that is a '98 model. You are right it is a non-estart FE model, and the frame downtubes look correct for that model.

The owners manual says it should have both the cable actuated kickstart and automatic camshaft decompressors. I don't know why they should be different to the estart ones - these kick quite OK without the extra cable unit!

I just had the cam out of my estart '98 because the decompressor return spring on the cam was so weak the decompressor would stay in the off position. Good chance yours is the same. A simple fix, but a bit of pulling apart. Check out this thread: http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... pic&t=8585

I have a copy of the service manual for that bike but the '99 in UHE downloads is pretty close. Unfortunately neither it nor the owners manual has a wiring diagram, but for the non-estart it is pretty simple. The e-start diagrams attached might help with wire colours on the switches for your bike, but being DC are more complicated than yours.

Adding a battery makes no difference to the spark at all. The 12V electrical system is completely separate to the spark system. If spark is weak it is unfortunately likely the stator. Talk to Sparks on this site - he rewinds them for a living!
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File Type: zip elduro-elec.zip (214.2 KB, 169 views)
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July 23rd, 2008, 12:02 PM   #6
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It looks like the Mikuni carb is the flat slide model. If it is, I would say that you are in luck. Years ago I replaced the stock Dellorto carb on my '96 FE600e with a 41 mm Mikuni flat slide carb and never looked back. I never did get the stock carb jetted perfectly, however I found the Mikuni much easier to get dialed in to perfection.
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July 28th, 2008, 11:50 AM   #7
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Thank you for your answers.
I have probably solved the decomp mystery. There is no decomp at all. Look at these pictures, there is no decomp mounted on the cam and there is nothing coming from the kickstart.

http://www.hot.ee/evars/berg/P7240007.JPG
http://www.hot.ee/evars/berg/P7260020.JPG

I’d be grateful if someone could take a picture of a working kickstarter decomp.

I took the engine apart since all the coolant got to the oil. The reason was that the rubber gaskets behind the water pump were in a really bad condition (question, should there be 2 or 3 gaskets?). The gasket between the cylinder head and cylinder might also be in a bad condition, I have not taken it apart yet since I am trying to find a manual on how to put the cam chain back on later on to the correct position.

http://www.hot.ee/evars/berg/P7260016.JPG

I measured the resistance between the wires that come from the engine. Since I cant find the “owners docâ€
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July 28th, 2008, 04:08 PM   #8
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For the owners doc it is under the main menu on the left hand side of the main page it is well worth a look.
Regards Pids
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July 28th, 2008, 05:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by dz1
There is no decomp at all. Look at these pictures, there is no decomp mounted on the cam and there is nothing coming from the kickstart....
dzi
This camshaft looks like it has the auto decopressor. Check the note on your photo below. Check the return spring that pushes it in still has preload on it as per Taff's thread. If this is OK, check the back side if the lobe is not worn off. If this is OK, adjust the valves correctly & it should work OK.


Get the doc as pids explained but also download the '99 service manual. The pages are a bit out of order, but the one maked as "Page 2 Limits of Tolerance" has the specs on the stator as well. Get back if you still have trouble & I'll photo the page of the '98 manual that talks about the stator. Also get the '98 owner's manual from the mother site.

Looking at your photos it looks like the whole engine has been assembled by a rock doctor! From the red goo squshed out I'd be suspect of any gasketed joint where the water could get into the oil. There is so much flange sealant floating about that lumps are probably in oil galleries. Again, see Taff's thread on cleaning or the crank oil galleries. The o-rings on the water pump back plate were obviously installed twisted and pinched, if not already broken and the back plate itself is pretty fuct up. The hex sockets on cam sprocket bolts look ripped about. The stop bolt is missing from the decompressor on the camshaft.

If it was me, I'd do a complete strip down of the engine to check it out and reassemble it with the care it deserves. Sorry if this sounds a bit negative - it is not intended to be.
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A few questions about FE600 1997-p7260016-marked.jpg  
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July 29th, 2008, 03:35 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by dz1
I’d be grateful if someone could take a picture of a working kickstarter decomp.
Sorry I only put the rocker cover back on mine last Saturday, but pages 27 and 28 in section 8D of the '99 service manual has what you are after.

Originally Posted by dz1
...(question, should there be 2 or 3 gaskets?). ...
There are only two o-rings around the water pump backing plate. The plate has two lip seals in it onto the camshaft - one seals the water in the water pump & the other seals the oil in the cambox. The centre groove that you suspect is for a third o-ring is there to connect a drilling from the the space between the two lip seals to a weep-hole drilling that leads outside behind the water pump. If either lip seal leaks, or either o-ring for that matter, the oil or water comes out the weep hole instead of being pushed into the other liquid. By having the groove you don't have to be particular about lining up the drillings when you assemble the backing plate into the head. For water to get into the oil through here the weep hole would have to be plugged up. Find it & check it. If it isn't plugged & wasn't weeping anything then you didn't have a problem there.

Originally Posted by dz1
I have not taken it apart yet since I am trying to find a manual on how to put the cam chain back on later on to the correct position.
You can get the manual on this site here: http://husaberg.org/index.php?module=Do ... =1&start=0 Scroll towards the bottom of the list & click the download button on the two parts of the manual.

To set the cam timing you rotate the crank to top-dead-center. With it held there, an imaginary line through the two cam sprocket bolt heads should line up vertically down the centreline of the cylinder - ie through the centre of the crank. Holding a rule up against it makes it easier to get right - it is not hard to accidently end up one tooth out. If you wind it to bottom-dead-centre (a bit harder to find) the cam bolts will align horizontally with the flange face that the rocker cover bolts onto.

Originally Posted by dz1
I measured the resistance between the wires that come from the engine. 6 wires come from the generator: yellow, yellow, blue, red, green and black
Yellow – yellow – 0
yellow – blue – 0
red – green – 1309 ohm
red – black – 1050 ohm
black – green – 22 ohm
The 1998 manual says you should measure from about 1500 to 1900 ohms between the black & red wires and from 24 to 30 ohms between the black & green wires. NOTE THIS IS QUITE DIFFERENT TO THAT FOR THE 1999 MODEL! There was a significant change in the ignition between these two years. The '98 stator bolts to the crankcase, the '99 bolts to the outer side cover. I guess the gizzards of the stators must be completely different as well. They shoud be the same for all models prior to '99.

I think the measurement between the red and green wires should equal the sum of the red-black and black-green measurements, but yours dont seem to. Are you confident your measurements are correct? If they are, is it possible your stator has been rewound?

If you are confident in your measurements and the stator looks original, your readings are a tad low. This is what tends to happen when the insulation wears off inside the windings due to vibration and turns in the winding short together. Chances are a new stator or a rewind would be worth considering.

The two fat yellow and fat blue wires are the 12V charging windings. You should measure very close to zero ohms between any of these. They rarely give trouble.
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