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November 20th, 2017, 08:32 PM   #1
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Stripping / repainting clutch and stator covers - 2008 FE550

Hello,

As part of the winter refurb, I'm wondering about how to freshen up the appearance of my two side covers. The stator's not bad, but the water pump and clutch covers are peeling the paint badly.

What I'd really like is some form of reinforcement - for my DRZ and 690, Thumpertalk and AdventureSpec respectively, sold really smart metal case guards. I've searched everywhere and can't find such products for this bike.

So assuming that such don't exist, what's the best way of stripping and repainting? I've seen and read about strippers like aviation remover, and then enamel primers and paints. They seem to look ok, but are not for 'Berg (or even KTM) motors, so don't want to mess with the metallurgy of these motors.

yes, I could order a new set of covers, but are there other options to freshen up my own?

thanks,

cm
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Last edited by canadius; November 20th, 2017 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Added a picher :)
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November 20th, 2017, 10:16 PM   #2
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Try soaking them in diesel over night. Strips the paint of a kalashnikov.
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November 21st, 2017, 12:11 AM   #3
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diesel? well, well!! well!!!!

you live and learn!

we sure could do with a feature on all the covers, especially the pre 2004s.

regards

Taffy
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November 21st, 2017, 04:28 AM   #4
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I cant guarantee as I'm not familiar with the paint but it is so cheap it's worth a try! I do know that diesel remove the paint from kalashnikovs and we also use it as a last resort solver at job (dirt, rust, corrosion, gunk, grease)
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November 21st, 2017, 03:55 PM   #5
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Use paint stripper Try Lordco
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November 21st, 2017, 05:36 PM   #6
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U can try diesel, might work on Russian quality paint. Its cheap so no big loss. Otherwise try paint stripper just go to body shop.supply and ask for help there. U probably need professional stuff. Rubber gloves wont protect your hands!!! Not for long. Don't ask me how I know. Best paint, probably powdercoat. Again, anything good is more money and longer lasting paint. Cheap is just soft to scratches.
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November 22nd, 2017, 12:42 AM   #7
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the men to know might be Husabutt and Berger who do car bodywork for their living....

regards

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November 22nd, 2017, 11:09 AM   #8
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The cases appear to be powder coated which as you probably know is pretty tough. Chemical paint Stripper may not budge it. Powdercoat can be burned off but that probably is not a good for the alloy cases. Blasting or wire brushing (on a drill) would probably work.

Soaking in diesel may not be aggressive enough. I have successfully removed black cylinder paint on Jap bike cylinders by soaking in lacquer thinner for a week. It then peels or blows off with compressed air. If you do try diesel you will need to do a final solvent wipe down (grease and wax remover) before painting to remove any trace of oil.

The paint could also be sanded off by hand. I would start with a fresh sheet 400 wet and just let it somewhat wear out for finish sanding.

The original Husaberg paint is silver or gray but is non-metallic. Silver paint is usually metallic. SEM Products makes a direct to metal gray spray bomb that duplicates e-coat which is how new unpainted autobody sheet metal is coated from the factory. It is not glossy.

A powdecoater in your area could probably come close the factory color although you may have to remove the paint (prep it) yourself.

https://www.semproducts.com/product/ez-coattm/coattm
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November 22nd, 2017, 11:46 AM   #9
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If its Powder coat apparently Benco B17 will remove it. If its paint then paint stripper.
And depending on how bad they are flaking , yes you may as well strip, if not you could sand them. 400 wetsand is fine.
Powder coating is best for many parts for durability but for me as an Auto Painter I would paint them as I have access to the materials.
You would want to scotch brite with soap and water any bare Magnesium. Dry very well and with sterile painters cloths apply wax and grease remover with one and dry well with another.
Tack and apply 1 to 2 coats of a wet on wet epoxy primer, wait for the window to apply ( usually 30 min) and apply 2 coats quality auto paint.

That would be my way to do it anyway..

pollo
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Last edited by pollo; November 22nd, 2017 at 11:55 AM.
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November 22nd, 2017, 01:13 PM   #10
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One point that didn't get addressed properly is that you do not have to completely remove the old paint if you don't want to. As long as it adheres well and is thoroughly sanded it can be refinished.

Just completely sand the old finish with 400 grit wet sandpaper (use water and a drop of liquid dish soap) and feather edge (smooth out) all of the scrapes, chips and imperfections.

I used automotive paint on my 97 600 frame and the original powdercoat was so tough I had to start with 220 grit wet in order to break the coat open and smooth it flat.

It took a few weekends and copious amounts of beer but I got it done.
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