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November 6th, 2017, 09:05 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
yes you need the washer. yes you are right

taffy
Great - thanks.
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November 7th, 2017, 02:55 AM   #12
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Click into neutral before stopping and just after you pull the clutch in. ...dont coast first. If you miss the chance to do that.... when stopped reach down and pull it into neutral with your hand which has a more subtle use of force than your foot. Use the recommended oil.
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November 10th, 2017, 06:45 PM   #13
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Thanks Taff,

So now that washer has arrived, I've "reset" the kick starter, and timing is aligned (1 dot between 2 dots), old gasket peeled off, new gasket mounted. I've put some heat shrink over the water pump shaft temporarily, to ease into the water pump seal. New water pump seal on hand. So it's time for remounting the clutch cover, and have a few questions:

1) Not wanting the kick starter shaft to "unset" itself, is this easier done with bike on my service stand or on it's right side?

2) Should I seat the water pump seal onto the case, and then slide the whole thing over the shaft that way - or should I leave the seal off, and pop in after case is fully in? Not wanting to mess up the new seal ...

Thanks folks. Caveat - this is the first time I've opened an engine case, so this whole experience is new ground for me. Sorry if questions are obvious or dumb - I make no claim of skill in this regard....

cheers,

cm
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November 10th, 2017, 11:42 PM   #14
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put the seal in the cover. put a little oil on the heat shrink. the kickstart will not mind if the engine is vertical or on the right but your left cover gasket WILL appreciate it being on the right.

Taffy
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November 24th, 2017, 09:52 AM   #15
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Hello all,

Just a quick update on this. Thanks to all for the tips - happy to report things are "mostly" fixed.

BTW, the trick to keep the starter shaft/cam assembly from kicking out during reassembly of the side cover was, as suggested, bike on it's side, and most importantly - having a buddy apply continuous inward pressure/immobilize the shaft as I positioned and tapped the case gently into place. After the trouble of positioning the gears and torqueing the nut - it's agonizing to have it pop out just as you're about to finish the job. It takes the tiniest amount of deflection of the shaft or even jiggling about to get it to unseat and pop out. Took me two attempts of doing this alone to figure out it was worth getting a hand.

Bike is now easy to put into neutral for either 1st or 2nd while running = win.

Starts with no "spinning/whining" of the sprague = win.

Bike still won't roll backwards easily when in gear and clutched in while running. I'm short, so with only balls of feet touching, it's hard to get lots of purchase to push back, but am comparing to other bikes I've owned. So am thinking it might need rebleeding. = wait and see. Since I'm about do an engine-off restoration, I'll wait to rebleed after that's all done.

Weep hole on the water pump still leaking some oil; I bought a new KTM blue seal. My question is this - where should that seal be positioned? By that I mean how far in/out along the shaft should it be positioned?

I placed it so that as you're looking at the water pump area, it's flush to the surface of the water pump cavity. But it could be shoved further back. I didn't, since I figured the sealing had to occur at the "outermost" point. I'm starting to think that's wrong, that I should have shoved it all the way inward. I figured I can always shove it in, but it's virtually impossible to pull out without ruining it, now that the cover is back on.

Before I evacuate all my coolant (uuuhgain), some thoughts on that seal's position, and if that's playing a role in the leak of the weep hole?

thx,

cm

Last edited by canadius; November 24th, 2017 at 10:21 PM.
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