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Suspension Suspension and Handling Forum - bouncy bouncy!


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April 13th, 2019, 06:41 AM   #11
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when you wash the legs in gunk, hold them at 45 degrees and let the liquid wash down the leg, as it hits a chip it will spread out and around the chip and make the chip stand out.

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April 15th, 2019, 05:12 AM   #12
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FYI. Talked with the guys at KTM World's shop (a former Berg dealer) in GA, they recommended the SKF red seals, which are heavier duty than the SKF green seals which I hear a lot about, and they apparently hold up better to grit. But the green are slicker, they just don't hold up as well in muddy conditions, so maybe if you're an SM guy or dual sport in fair weather conditions green seals may be your best deal for longer life, and if you're riding a lot of enduro, red seals may be your bag.
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April 15th, 2019, 10:55 AM   #13
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I've just asked the importer. he says there's no difference in them. Red = OEM KTM and Green = aftermarket.

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April 15th, 2019, 11:46 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
I've just asked the importer. he says there's no difference in them. Red = OEM KTM and Green = aftermarket.

Taffy
LOL. Good to know, thanks for the clarification. You I guess it just comes down to which color looks best with your graphics kit
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April 15th, 2019, 04:55 PM   #15
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Hi there guys,

Managing fork seals, what I do to get the best out of them for me.

First things first, do a very close inspection of the fork leg, ensuring its not grooved or scratch up, or got a bur on it, as this will potentially damage the new seals you replace and will be leaking again.

When using high pressure washers on fork legs , don't point the end up into the dust covers or seals directly, as the pressured water potentially pushes crap up under the seals and dust covers.
After washing the bike or at end of each day or ride , wipe down the whole leg of the fork with wet rag or with some light lube like silicon spray or crc or something wiped on the leg. Keeps clean and loosens hardens mud/clay. Can do that before a ride to prevent crap from sticking as well. The hardened dried clay film or mud sets and as the seal/dust covers contacts it, cant resist and push it away , the lip folds or opens allowing mud grit under the lip. Especially the last bottoming area of the leg , as this gets overlooked and holds mud and crap there from previous rides. When you finally bottom it in the unused section of the fork ,it hits the sun hardened mud/clay stuff, that maybe contribute as well, so watch that.

I also find if the fork leg is not leaking oil , and you can wipe most of the mess off the outside of the dust seal, I personally try not to pull out the dust seal and clean it to often , as this can potentially disturb everything around the dust cover and seal. May end up causing a leaking seal if you are not careful especially poking around with dirty tool or screwdriver when removing the dust cover.(Some People do remove/clean dust covers frequently)

If you are replacing seals, don't do the tight arse Tuesday as I did recently, only done one seal on one leg that was leaking ,even though I had two new seals there ready to go and know better.(lazy) I thought I would see how long the other old seal would last, before it would go. Well, less than 4 hours of riding that seal went as well. ha ha.


Neoprene fork leg covers, yes some get great results from using them , but again , they also needs cleaning regularly which is the down side, I imagine they can also potentially create a slight bit of friction on the fork in some cases?


Plastic fork leg protectors , hey they are great , stops lots of craps hitting the fork leg. One thing , though , you really need to get in right behind and around them and clean all the fork leg , not just the easy bits. the earlier bergs had a half cover which is easy to remove and great to get in and adround and clean the fork legs. The last couple of models made,
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April 15th, 2019, 05:43 PM   #16
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Whoops ,Sorry, hit the wrong button and it posted a half finished reply!!

The last couple of husaberg models made , they must of had a few of the fork leg protectors come off in extreme conditions and people complain I would say, so they redesigned them and partially enclosed the leg in spots , great idea and greatly strengthened the plastic fork leg protector so it will never come off, however , it made it very had to get in and clean the fork leg properly and get to the dust covers. They seem to have gone back to the older style cover again on the newer model ktms again which is better I think.

Leaking fork seals, if they are old seals been there for many years , or of unknown quantity, I always replace them. If I have only short hours on seals and get a leak again, instead of pulling the fork out and doing the seals, inspect the leg, if its not damaged chances are, I get an old piece of camera film as it is soft and hard sharp stuff doesn't like to slide on it and will roll or dislodge easy. I remove the dust cover and slide the camera film between the seal and leg, moving it around and up and down. There is a pretty good chance it will dislodge what ever muck is holding the seal off the leg from sealing. Much easier and cheaper option than pulling and replacing seals. It has worked on quite a few occasions and got long life out of one set of seals.

Be careful , don't go poking around the seal with screwdrivers or other rough edged tools or implements , as that will most certainly damage the seal. Feeler gauges have sharp edges also and can potentially damage the seal. The camera film is soft and wont damage the seal.


If you are in mud, muck and extreme conditions, If you can get 2 seasons without doing seals , based on what I have seen /experienced, I would say you are doing well. Its sometimes an unknown quantity , me 150-200hr there would be a leak somewhere, in good conditions and riding.

These days , I try to wheelie over mud and water where possible,go around it as well, anything practical to avoid getting crap on the legs. Not possible in a lot of racing or wetter climates where people ride. Dirt bikes and mud, is a bit like salt water and boats, they just don't go well together, ha ha.


There are a few good U tube vids on how to get burs and bits removed from your fork legs if damaged from suspension tuners also.


Well , hope that helps a bit.
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April 24th, 2019, 10:09 PM   #17
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After I washed my bike and made sure the forks and shock stem is clean I spray WD40 on the chrome. My thought is it will dissolve any gunk I missed so it doesn't dry up and later rip the seals.
I also quickly spray the chrome before I jump on the bike if it had time to dry up between the runs. The dry chrome will rub the seals the first time until the fork oil lubes it up. A quick spray saves the seals from that first compression.

Overkill? Don't know, maybe? It's in my routine and I keep the can next to the bike so it's easy to spray. My thought is that it's more of a hazzle to have bad seals getting shit up the forks and to change seals too often.
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April 25th, 2019, 08:40 AM   #18
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Jon, easy cheap steps to overcome this problem are always welcome!
As thats what Im talking about, just be wise and dont spend cash.

My ride bud always makes sure to get the fork legs clean after each ride and its on 160hrs (4cs) with no issues, I do the same but change them preventively at 100 hrs.
We do hit severe mud, so its not like its a sunday stroll.
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Last edited by TomTom; April 25th, 2019 at 08:44 AM.
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