HusaBELGfs570

You can not turn a fs into fe unless you use different forkleg radial>axial
OR use stock brake setup wich is way to agressive ofroad and you have to move the frontwheel offcenter to clear the endurowheel from the caliper.

threedigits

You are right. This goes to all 4 piston FS calipers, if I remember correctly, the caliper mounting at of the fork leg is different in normal FS.

My bike came with the 6 piston Behringer caliper from the factory, which uses the same lower fork part as the enduro version, therefore in my bike I can change between supermoto 6 piston caliper and the 2-piston enduro caliper anytime.

I did my reseach well before converting to enduro, because the handbook only writes about the 4 piston caliper mount. No mention about the case of a Husaberg Power Part caliper. The guy I bought my Tagasaki enduro wheels had a 650FS with the 4 piston brake, and he could not fit the wheels into his Berg.

Taffy

the thing is, there are so many husabergs being broken now, it would be more a case of swopping with someone I think?

Taffy

threedigits

Yes, I have considered swapping my whole suspension front and rear to FE option, BUT I live in Finland, not so many Husabergs here. Haven't found an affordable solution, so I just ride the bike like it is and still have lots of fun even the suspension is not the best for dirt.

Sorry for derailing the original topic.

Taffy

I have about 4 FE sets and one FS set here. they hold the doors open (especially in this heat!).

Taffy

tourist

The difference is mostly
A ) In the valving
B ) In suspension length
C ) in front offset

For A: You can probably just get the FE valving spec and install it. A revalve is an easy job, done with hand tools.

For B: You *can* keep the length, but you can also extend the travel if you wish.

Bushmechanic has posted about cartridge extenders which extend fork travel. AFAIK these are simple lengths of pipe the same dimensions as the fork cartridge (the innermost tube in the forks). They have a screw thread on the outside on one end and on the inside of the other end. You screw these on, make sure everything else fits together, and you have extended your forks These can probably be bought, and also your friendly neighborhood machinist can make you some I'm sure! Machining is a super nice world to get into.

For the shock: On the DRZ (the other bike I know a tiny little bit about) there are ways to extend the travel of the shock. These involve changing the length of a spacer as far as I know. Maybe changing the shock shaft; I'm not sure. These are not as major changes as they may seem

For C: I THINK that a supermoto fork yoke may cause FE forks and wheels to steer somewhat heavy when swapped on, all else being equal. The SM yoke has less offset = more front wheel trail = more "steering correction" by the ground as you travel over it because the ground has greater leverage over the wheel and wants to straighten it out. You can alleviate this to a significant degree by making the front sit lower or the rear sit higher. Many ways to do it, including rear preload, fork position in clamps, spring weight front or rear, and even the valving ("dynamic ride height" as Bushie illustrated it somewhere here, worth a dig for and a read).

tourist

If you want to get deeper - suspension valving is VERY interesting and reasonable to do yourself, then check out this site: Shim ReStackor, Finally software to tune a shim stack

Shim Restackor allows you to simulate different valving in your forks and shock. The site is also very good. Takes a while to digest it all but it's got great info.

This thread on DRZ suspension valving taught me A LOT about suspension and Shim Restackor: DRZ Fork Revalve - Shim Stack Discussion & Recommendations - DR-Z 400 - ThumperTalk

Let me know if you're at all interested and I'll dig up more links. There's knowledge out there to make these jobs pretty easy, it's just scattered around.

mxs

Pretty interesting stuff. Thanks for posting.