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October 30th, 2009, 06:42 PM   #1
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Stock springs in a 2010 390Fe

Hey all

Any one know for sure what the 2010 390 has for fork springs in it?

Thanks

Looki
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October 30th, 2009, 06:53 PM   #2
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RE: Stck springs in a 2010 390Fe

44 fork springs, all 09s and 2010s FEs have 44 in them. from my experience, if you are under 180, std will work, over that, go to 46s in the fork and 76 in the rear and over 215, go to 48s and 80. the bike is quite balances, so go one step on both ends. I've never riden a bike that was so affected, in a positive way, from heavier springs...new bike yet again.

cheers

fry
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October 30th, 2009, 06:59 PM   #3
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Re: RE: Stck springs in a 2010 390Fe

Originally Posted by fryguy
44 fork springs, all 09s and 2010s FEs have 44 in them. from my experience, if you are under 180, std will work, over that, go to 46s in the fork and 76 in the rear and over 215, go to 48s and 80. the bike is quite balances, so go one step on both ends. I've never riden a bike that was so affected, in a positive way, from heavier springs...new bike yet again.

cheers

fry
Thanks Fry

What sort of sag numbers are working on these bergs?

Btw nice showing by Shane in the land of vampires

Looki
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October 31st, 2009, 01:42 AM   #4
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Thinking it would get expensive () I have never dared to ride a 09/10.
Watching them in action in very rocky sections makes me think they "pogo" a lot more than other bikes here. Just an observation.
Regards
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October 31st, 2009, 08:07 AM   #5
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I weigh 260 nekid. Here is a shot of some small jumps on my bike.

[vimeo:2t02bi2n]http://vimeo.com/7354830[/vimeo:2t02bi2n]

Obviously the stock springs are too light for me. I am going to get new springs and the suspension setup by a local pro.
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October 31st, 2009, 10:08 AM   #6
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Re: RE: Stck springs in a 2010 390Fe

Originally Posted by looki
Originally Posted by fryguy
44 fork springs, all 09s and 2010s FEs have 44 in them. from my experience, if you are under 180, std will work, over that, go to 46s in the fork and 76 in the rear and over 215, go to 48s and 80. the bike is quite balances, so go one step on both ends. I've never riden a bike that was so affected, in a positive way, from heavier springs...new bike yet again.

cheers

fry
Thanks Fry

What sort of sag numbers are working on these bergs?

Btw nice showing by Shane in the land of vampires

Looki
Hi Looki

I think most guys use 35mm and then fine tune the handling from there using fork preload, fork tube height, and high speed compression. I guy really has to fiddle himself as I know that how I like my bike to work does not work for other guys, as my height AND my weight affect how the bike handles. Height has just as much to do with adjustments as weight does, as a taller guy puts more weight rear ward.

Smorgasborg, I know that the new bike handles way better than my 07 that had a sweet revalving done to the shock. But if cash is short, don't test ride a new bike in familiar territory....you'll find yourself tempered with yourself.

cheers mates

fry
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October 31st, 2009, 11:45 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by CodeMonkey
I weigh 260 nekid. Here is a shot of some small jumps on my bike.



Obviously the stock springs are too light for me. I am going to get new springs and the suspension setup by a local pro.
Go for it. You will notice a mega difference. you will wonder how you rode it before, once its all set up right.

Regardless of springs, with the trajectory on that jump you need to keep the throttle on until the back wheel has left the crest and land further along with the throttle still on a bit for drive. The 570s dont take kindly to shutting the throttle as you hit the jump.

On the other hand when you have a bomb hole with near vertical sides i am finding the opposite, You dont want to try and jump out the other side because the rearward weight means its easy to loop the 570. So i throttle up the other side and momentarily chop the throttle as the back wheel comes out so the front drops quite quickly and throttle on again to keep momentum.

Good luck with revalve and springs, keep us posted,

Nick
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October 31st, 2009, 04:07 PM   #8
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Re: RE: Stck springs in a 2010 390Fe

Originally Posted by fryguy
44 fork springs, all 09s and 2010s FEs have 44 in them. from my experience, if you are under 180, std will work, over that, go to 46s in the fork and 76 in the rear and over 215, go to 48s and 80. the bike is quite balances, so go one step on both ends. I've never riden a bike that was so affected, in a positive way, from heavier springs...new bike yet again.

cheers

fry
Thanks Fry for the input. And I totally agree, with a balanced spring rate change, the bike is new all over again.

I did want to point something out that I don't see mentioned very much here.

When we talk about stock fork and shock spring rates on Husaberg's, I think it's important to remember that these spring rates are in Newton Meters, not Kilograms. And a lot of aftermarket springs, like Race Tech or Eibach are sold in KG's. So there is a difference, a difference that you can feel.

4.4Nm = .4486KG's or roughly .45KG's.
4.6Nm = .469 KG's, call it .47kg
4.8Nm = .489 KG's, call it .49kg

Shock spring:
72Nm=7.3kg (stock)
74Nm=7.54kg
76Nm=7.749kg
80Nm=8.157kg
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October 31st, 2009, 04:38 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by NKW570
Originally Posted by CodeMonkey
I weigh 260 nekid. Here is a shot of some small jumps on my bike.



Obviously the stock springs are too light for me. I am going to get new springs and the suspension setup by a local pro.
Go for it. You will notice a mega difference. you will wonder how you rode it before, once its all set up right.

Regardless of springs, with the trajectory on that jump you need to keep the throttle on until the back wheel has left the crest and land further along with the throttle still on a bit for drive. The 570s dont take kindly to shutting the throttle as you hit the jump.

On the other hand when you have a bomb hole with near vertical sides i am finding the opposite, You dont want to try and jump out the other side because the rearward weight means its easy to loop the 570. So i throttle up the other side and momentarily chop the throttle as the back wheel comes out so the front drops quite quickly and throttle on again to keep momentum.

Good luck with revalve and springs, keep us posted,

Nick
Thanks for the advice.

To be clear, I was just using that particular hole as a convenient place to practice jumps. It isn't optimum, in fact, I maybe should have use the entrance instead as it was less vertical IIRC.

Normally, I would just ride up such a ramp and not even loft the front wheel much less jump. I am a slow rider and I get more satisfaction from attempting technical trails than I do jumping. Actually the latter scare me (although they can feel fun too) - I felt like I was a lot farther up than I was. That said, there are times when it can be advantageous to be able to jump to clear an obstacle.
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November 1st, 2009, 06:39 AM   #10
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Re: RE: Stck springs in a 2010 390Fe

Originally Posted by DaleEO
Originally Posted by fryguy
44 fork springs, all 09s and 2010s FEs have 44 in them. from my experience, if you are under 180, std will work, over that, go to 46s in the fork and 76 in the rear and over 215, go to 48s and 80. the bike is quite balances, so go one step on both ends. I've never riden a bike that was so affected, in a positive way, from heavier springs...new bike yet again.

cheers

fry
Thanks Fry for the input. And I totally agree, with a balanced spring rate change, the bike is new all over again.

I did want to point something out that I don't see mentioned very much here.

When we talk about stock fork and shock spring rates on Husaberg's, I think it's important to remember that these spring rates are in Newton Meters, not Kilograms. And a lot of aftermarket springs, like Race Tech or Eibach are sold in KG's. So there is a difference, a difference that you can feel.

4.4Nm = .4486KG's or roughly .45KG's.
4.6Nm = .469 KG's, call it .47kg
4.8Nm = .489 KG's, call it .49kg

Shock spring:
72Nm=7.3kg (stock)
74Nm=7.54kg
76Nm=7.749kg
80Nm=8.157kg
just when I thought life was getting simple, with legible numbers...now a different scale to deal with...for me it works better as I am a little lean on my weight numbers and perhaps need a little stiffer.

Interesting tid bit though as I have heard of various different spring manufacturers being light with their springs and also having inconsistancies in their manufacturing tolerances. Best thing is to buy from someone who used the product they are selling and realizes what you need, irrelavant of the number.
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