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July 8th, 2019, 11:25 PM   #1
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I Ride: Husaberg 450 FE 2009, Husaberg 650 FE 2003, KTM 250 SX 2005
master/brake line for 4 pot beringer caliper

Hey guys, I've recently installed a 4 pot beringer caliper, but have the original husaberg brake line and reservoar.

they bite ok, but I have no problem pulling the lever all the way in to the handle bar

Will just upgraded brake line make it better, or should both line and reservoar get replaced

(I have bled the system soooo many times)

is there second hand parts from other KTM (or other models" I can use

thx in advance
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July 9th, 2019, 12:12 AM   #2
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look under the reservior and you might see the piston size. it would be 9mm. I would have thought 10 or at the most 11mm would do.

ever heard about the wooden brakes in the 80s and 90s? they used to think that 13-15mm was good.

its not rocket science.

Taffy
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July 9th, 2019, 05:56 AM   #3
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I Ride: FE570,FS570,450/520XCF SM, SV1000, NC700
if you're willing to spend a bunch of money, the BRO10 (also by Beringer) is probably your best option. It's also one of the most compact options, with no external reservoir to be damaged like a sportbike master.

4 Piston Caliper Left Axial 4D11 - Beringer Brakes AfterMarket I believe Beringer 4 piston (axial, which I assume you have) uses 27mm pistons, based on that web page.

The only aftermarket 4 piston I have experience with is Braking, it had 1.25" and 1.45" (31.75mm and 36.83mm) pistons and worked well with a 15RCS, but the Beringer caliper is enough smaller that I doubt it would work (Beringer 4 piston axial area/side = 1145mm^2, Braking = 1857mm^2). As a comparison, the 6 piston Beringer also has 27mm pistons, for area of 1717mm^2, not far from the Braking, and the 4 piston radial has 32mm pistons, for an area of 1608mm^2, so they call for reasonably similar master cylinders.

I believe the MotoMaster master cylinder is 12mm, so it might be a reasonable option and is significantly less expensive than the Beringer.
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July 9th, 2019, 08:08 AM   #4
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I had been reading a bit about this recently as I picked up a Motomaster 4 pot setup but without a master cylinder. The pricing for the aftermarket units seems crazy. I would also be interested in any recommendation for a used OEM part that may fit the bill.
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July 9th, 2019, 08:20 AM   #5
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well all you should need is something off a 4 pot caliper that is on a roadbike.

Taffy
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July 9th, 2019, 08:21 AM   #6
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I Ride: Husaberg 450 FE 2009, Husaberg 650 FE 2003, KTM 250 SX 2005
thx, i guess I'll start with a brake line found this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HEL-Stainle...wAAOSwEMhZ5H-X

and see if i can find a second hand master

thanks for helpful and informative reply
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July 9th, 2019, 08:25 AM   #7
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Thanks Taffy

Was hoping I could find something off a similar model KTM to our bikes. Some of the street bike stuff seems like it would be an odd fit with barkbusters.
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July 9th, 2019, 09:03 AM   #8
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do you not already have a braided line? if not, it should help.

NoClassic, the MotoMaster master isn't that outrageous - I was forgetting that I have one of their calipers and masters on my WR. It works pretty well.

I believe the MotoMaster caliper is supposed to work reasonably well with a stock size master, but I'm sure that varies between bikes.

And yes, you may have to space out the handguard to fit around a radial master. The small size of the Beringer masters is one of the reasons they're popular.
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July 9th, 2019, 09:12 AM   #9
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I will give the factory master a try and go from there. Reports are that it does work but can be challenging to bleed and feels soft. Likely be ok for me given that its going to be on the street and not tracked.
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July 9th, 2019, 02:01 PM   #10
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Hmmmm....
What rotor/pad combo are you using?
Not sure it'll make much difference, but something to consider.
I have raced with the KTM (stock MX) master and Beringer 4 pot for years without any issues. Using the stock KTM braided line as well.
How did you go about bleeding the caliper and master?
If the lever is going to the bar, it's one of two things...The master cylinder bore is too small (can't push enough fluid) or there's still air in the system somewhere. I'm leaning toward air in the system, based on my experience with the same/similar set up.
Good luck!
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