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June 10th, 2017, 02:51 AM   #41
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Well today on my only day off the Scottish eco system has decided today isn't a riding day. So cracked on with my project.

I've removed the starter motor,battery and the mirrors.

The starter hole has been plugged.


I removed the mirrors as these particular ones are bum. They close in if you go over 50 lol.


Also found a use for my spare spoke covers.


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June 18th, 2017, 02:43 AM   #42
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Need decals fitted, and took the bike for a spin. Managed to stall and she was not for restarting. I think it's time for the keihin upgrade!



Certainly worse places to be stranded.


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June 18th, 2017, 11:44 PM   #43
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generally, if they won't restart when warm it is because the FS is rich. it might be just half a turn but try it leaner here. try to do this before you change the carb because it might not be the carb and then when you have swapoed them: you'll have no reference point!

tight tappet is another.

oh and low idle is a classic. if the idle is too low: it won't have it!

regards

Taffy
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June 22nd, 2017, 09:32 PM   #44
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Good point, I'll be checking the valve clearances soon anyway so may just check them and rule it out.

Never actually done these. Is that get to tdc on the compression stroke and loosen nut. Turn screw until it bites then back 1/6th of a turn i.e. 1 bolt face worth?


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July 1st, 2017, 05:52 AM   #45
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Well today I got a bit of free time to start the carb swap. The old one came off with relative ease.(anyone need one?)


The new carb in place



There's not much room for moving about in there!

Any changes and the carb is back out again.

The cables have been routed and fitted. Then I tried to fit the boot.


The boot doesn't fit! Grrr problem number 1.

I decided to carry on with the rest as the boot can be fitted later. I connected up the fuel and turned on the tap just to leak check the carb. It leaked! Issue 2.

It looked as if one of the bolts was a bit loose. So I gave it a tiny nip and round it went. Pulled the bolt and it's stripped the threads! Not happy!

Not the best of days!


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July 3rd, 2017, 10:22 AM   #46
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Taffy has a good point with the bearings but there is also another theory to use ball bearings on the right side for axial tolerance and rollers on the left where radial tolerance is critical. I'm sure Taffy can explain this better.

As a rider I would absolutely recomend the Wössner piston (I believe the 8551DA or 8551DB) to get a more linear and longer power curve. Not the evil low end torque and it will just keep revving. Discuss which piston you buy with the engineers refurbishing your liner (A or B). You'll also shave 50% off the price from the original as a bonus.

Oh, you might want to cut the boot with a scissor. I cut mine straight from just above the lower line in the front and ease it out to nothing at about 2/3'rds back. That should give you the right angle. When mounting, keep the body slightly loose in both ends to adjust it as good as you can before tightening front - then back.

Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
....and don't use ball bearing mains on a 650! even an old one! Rollers everytime IMHO.
taffy

Last edited by iRob; July 3rd, 2017 at 10:33 AM.
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July 3rd, 2017, 10:34 AM   #47
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Gregs 2002 FS650 project / rebuild.

Thanks, I'm not planning on doing the main internals just yet. I just got the rod ,crank ,piston and liner thrown in with the head I bought.

I want to do the head soon, the new head already has all the newer parts In ready to go. I also want to fit new Kick start spring, sledge whilst the oil is out. I'm also going to fit the trailtech vapour sensor whist the coolant is out.

Long list of jobs just waiting for the right time. I've just started to change the carb so Hoping to complete that first.

I had just seen the jbs racing kits, shame they no longer make them! A 700 would be fun!

What I'll probably do is next tine I go to sea (navy) I'll drop the engine and take it with me with a big bag of new bits and rebuild it slow time.


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July 5th, 2017, 10:32 PM   #48
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Well I've found the solution to my issue with the carb.

I found the answer on here from 2011!

The CRF carb has a weird front that not many other bikes use. It doesn't have a bell mouth or a detachable anything!

So if any one is thinking of getting a crf carb you need to factor in another 75-100 for an adapter.

This is the crf one.

Had to order this


Hopefully once it arrives I'll get it all fitted and can then start to tune the carb!


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July 15th, 2017, 03:08 AM   #49
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Averted my thread stripping disaster.

Bought a helicoil kit on eBay. Drilled
Tapped
Helicoiled
Sorted!

Of all the 4 carb bolts to mess up! Mine was the one that lead to the fuel like. Some delicate drilling involved

Also finally got the correct decals from motocal




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July 29th, 2017, 10:54 PM   #50
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The carb is all in and fitted. I've not trimmed off the 3 mm from the inlet rubber but it fits ok.

Struggled to start it at first. Opened the plate slightly and away she roared. Initial on the stand thoughts was it was far more responsive. I was getting pops when I let off the throttle.

I live north of Glasgow so as usual it's wet. I thought I'd just leave tuning into its dry.

I waited awhile and got bored. So decided to take it out. Kicked her and she started. Opened the throttle and it cut out. Tried to restart. Nothing. It turns out if you switch of the fuel a bike won't run! Who'd have thought lol.

A quick few laps revealed it's garbage in low range (not set up yet) but she pulls like a train in the high. I lost my bottle and she's back away awaiting a dryer day.


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