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May 7th, 2016, 06:27 AM   #31
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I Ride: 2006 FS650e, 2007 FE550e, 2016 Ktm500Exc
16/40 works for me on the FS650. Maybe a track could use shorter but for highway and twisty back roads it feels good and pulls 6th just fine.

pollo
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May 9th, 2016, 01:55 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by pollo View Post
16/40 works for me on the FS650. Maybe a track could use shorter but for highway and twisty back roads it feels good and pulls 6th just fine.

pollo
Thanks! Went with 15/42, hopefully a good decision. Not many highways here in Ireland, and where I live I just need to dig through half the city and I'm in the 'mountains' (they're really hills, but nothing else around we can call mountains).
The track is about 40 mins away too. Perks of living on a small island
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May 16th, 2016, 12:54 PM   #33
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I Ride: 2002 fs 650e and 2004 fe 450 enduro
wiked thread! your not the only guy spending iv spent well into 4 figures now and still have stuff to be done! ! where did you get those graphics made up??
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FS650 n00b rebuild project-20160320_135141.jpg  
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May 17th, 2016, 01:56 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by mudmuncher2013 View Post
wiked thread! your not the only guy spending iv spent well into 4 figures now and still have stuff to be done! ! where did you get those graphics made up??
Ha, yours still looks better than mine I also spent into four figures in total (counting the bike) and the figure starts with a 4 or 5 at this point. Haven't paid the labour cost yet
For the graphics google 'motocal', you can design your own graphics there, that's what I did.

Anyways, we're almost there; yesterday it fired up, now we just have a few issues to sort out:

1.Rad seems to be leaking, hopefully it can be repaired, as original ones seem very costly :/
2.Engine has a small leak, but I knew about that, probably fixable.
3.Wheel bearings to be replaced.
4.Ignition key still not connected, starts on button - not great in an underground carpark
5.Fork seals are weeping, will need replacing, but might seal a bit more once we use them a bit.

And probably more unexpected stuff. Still, it's alive!
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May 26th, 2016, 04:20 AM   #35
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I Ride: suzuki rmx 250 yamaha banshee 350 and husaberg fs 650
Awsome post just about to start my eppic build lol but congratulations hope your enjoying your new burg lol
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November 22nd, 2016, 12:15 PM   #36
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Update time! Guess what!


The bike isn't finished yet The project stalled a bit (again) due to lack of time and money. Summer went by, autumn also went by, so no rush anymore. But we are slowly tipping away, seeing as there is only so many parts one can get for a simple bike like this. Anyways, I need your help:

Short story: we were replacing the water pump impeller seals. Just got the o-rings (thanks Taffy) and had the seals bought a while ago. Today it turned out the seal that came out of the bike is different than the one I got, about 1,5 times thicker. At a loss here, what am I missing? Pics below.

Backstory for the curious: the reason for going into the engine in the first place was an oil leak which we traced to the gear lever shaft. Most of the oil went onto the floor while the bike was standing in the garage for months. So we replaced that and then noticed that oil pump needed a bit of refresh.

The deeper we look... etc.

Here's the pics.
Seals (right - old, left - new)



Parts fiche. Part no 60 is what I ordered, right?

Bonus pic: at least the engine is shiny inside

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November 22nd, 2016, 12:38 PM   #37
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As long as the diameters are OK, doesn't make any difference, and puts the seal lip on a different part of the shaft where there is likely less wear. There are a few seals about that have the same diameters, with different widths.

Don't push the seal in too far, you need to allow the cavity to drain if necessary.
Thanks from canolman, hagetaka and Damo W
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November 22nd, 2016, 12:45 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by steve View Post
As long as the diameters are OK, doesn't make any difference, and puts the seal lip on a different part of the shaft where there is likely less wear. There are a few seals about that have the same diameters, with different widths.

Don't push the seal in too far, you need to allow the cavity to drain if necessary.
Ha, didn't expect that answer, but kind of makes sense, I think... Got to love the interwebs, thanks!
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November 28th, 2016, 03:09 AM   #39
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Wanted to put together the engine on Saturday evening: yet again we were defeated by another missing o-ring, this time part number 0770173024 - another one for the water pump, between the main engine casing and cover. Not sure how did we miss this initially, but need to find this now before we can close up the engine and give it a go. Life is hard.

Another question: there is a triangle shaped "dirt-filter" that goes under the seat on the parts fiche, made from same black sponge as the tabs on both sides of the frame. Does anybody have a picture how this should be installed?
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February 8th, 2017, 08:23 AM   #40
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Did I mention that the engine is running?
Turned out the rad is leaking pretty bad. Tried getting welded, no luck. Found a used one cheap online and it's on route... Maybe I'll finally make this bike a runner this year!
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