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June 15th, 2007, 11:20 PM   #61
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And I nearly forgot,

When I was refitting the carb I noted that the closing cable was frayed and close to failing at the carb end, Wildman had this problem at Louee. This should not happen. I had some slightly heavier wire and suitable ferules in the shed so just rewired it.

Keep and eye on your cables, this should not be happening on new bikes, the cable rubs through where it comes out of the threaded outer. The opening cable is OK. I tweaked it a bit for slightly better alignment, but not much in it.

As an aside, these cable systems often get called push pull. They're not, they are pull pull. Pull to open, and pull to close.

Cheers
Steve
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June 28th, 2007, 01:28 PM   #62
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So here is the dyno chart:
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

Note the difference between the before and after curves. Carl is very thorough and the muffler end cap he's developed obviously works. Carl felt that I wouldn't get such a big thrill as most of his customers as I wasn't too far out to start with, the Lineaweaver needle impressing him. A short test ride indicates that it is very controllable and easy to ride at low speed and very hard to stall. I expect to be spooked when I get a chance to give it a proper rev.

The AP seems good at 1 mm too, just a little more snap off a closed throttle, but all still entirely under control of the right wrist.

Not much chance to ride this weekend, but next weekend should give me some time in familiar terrain and a chance to play some more. Still dunno what I'm actually going to do with 1/3 more HP, but I'll have fun finding out.

Steve
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June 29th, 2007, 02:50 AM   #63
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Hi Steve,
I have just been talking to Carl about your bike on the phone. I see he still has his old phone number on the Dyno Charts !!!! He really needs to change that. He said he was quite impressed with the Lineaweaver needle, it's a good thing.
I think you will be very happy with the results. I am extremely happy with mine. Not that it was bad before, but it's just so "rideable" now, anywhere, anytime, any revs or any speed. I just love it !!!! It's just nice to know that now you really are getting the best out of what you have.
Important to remember that Carl uses a Dyno Dynamics machine, hence the output figures are lower than what "other" dynos will give you !!! The important thing is percentage gain on what your bike had, and not what the final figure is. If you must compare figures then multiply your results by approx 1.3 to give you a figure relevant to other Dynos. These are outputs at the rear wheel as well.
I shall request a gallery and post my Dyno charts for you to check out.
Cheers
Garry.
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June 29th, 2007, 11:04 PM   #64
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Here ya go Steve, check these out.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php
I am running 98 octane fuel which could explain some difference if you are running 95 octane ? Also I had the ProRider end cap in and larger main jet with the initial Dyno run. It appears that the lineaweaver needle gives you a richer bottom to mid range and slightly leaner top end. I also noticed my peak HP was achieved around 7400rpm and yours was around 7100 rpm. I bet we couldn't tell the difference at those rpm's as we would be to damn busy hanging on !!!! The power curves are very similar as you would expect, so it appears there was no major changes to cam profiles or ignition mapping from the 06 to the 07 models. All looks good Steve. Enjoy.

Cheers
Garry.
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June 29th, 2007, 11:59 PM   #65
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Hi Cafey18,

Hope the lurgy is receding, must be crook if you couldn't force a beer down with me the other night. Dunno how I am going to deal with the fact that you've got 2 more HP than me, ride harder I suppose. And yes, this was on 95 and Carl did suggest another few with 98, so maybe if I feel the need, I'll just spend more at the pump for more HP at the AGM.

Carl definitely seems to know his stuff. There are now plenty of dynos around in Oz, mostly Dynojets, but the Dyno Dynamics allows tuning at other than full throttle. A dyno is just a tool, and only as good as the operator, and I would normally be a bit wary until I knew who I was dealing with.

A 15 min ride around my single track here at home to warm the oil for a 20 hr service has confirmed the first impressions, ie its all good, perfect, or at least the best I've now experienced, linear, controllable, and with the 1 mm AP setting, a snap off the bottom into a huge mid range and a scary top end

Here is a pic of the end cap which liberates some/most of the 1/3 increase.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

and compared to the original seen here
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

A disappointment is the leaking water pump oil seal. I got an OrangeBerg kit installed by Suttos when they did the crankcase leak fix, which still leaks a bit too. Here is a pic of the evidence after 4 hours, now 20 hours after installation.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

If I can get the oil to stay inside it'll be bliss, virtually is now anyway.

Cheers
Steve
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June 30th, 2007, 02:58 AM   #66
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nasty looking oil leak .
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June 30th, 2007, 05:03 AM   #67
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Yeah does look not to good at all.
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June 30th, 2007, 08:26 AM   #68
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ah just a little oil bleed, no big deal right?
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June 30th, 2007, 09:51 AM   #69
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It's the small flat oil seal that fits on the back of the bearing KTM part number 0625062013. Just done mine but it wasn't as bad as yours, might be wise to repalce the small pump seal at the same time.

Regards

Sparks.
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June 30th, 2007, 06:28 PM   #70
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Oil Leaks!

As noted elsewhere, I've got 3 since new, now 49 hours old.

1. Crankcase join. The underside of the motor is wet with oil after every ride. Based on photo evidence, Sutto stripped the motor and resealed. Its better, but I still don't think its completely oil tight. He's told me to take another photo and he'll have another look and talk to Husaberg Oz. I haven't got a real good pic yet as its been full of mud and other crap and the motor has also been wet with oil from the other sources. Its so long since I've ridden in mud, I've forgotten how. 8" of rain here in recent weeks. 10 year drought might not yet have broken, but its a start.

2. Water pump oil seal. A slight weep since about hour 3. I wasn't going to get too excited, as it seems to be standard. When Sutto said they'd fix the case join I got the OrangeBerg kit and they fitted it when they did the cases. Seemed good initially, but then after 4 or 5 hours it started to get a film appearing. More recently, you've seen the pic.

3. Countershaft seal. After the attempted crankcase seal fix, it became apparent that some of the oil accumulating underneath was coming from the c/s seal. I had a spare in the shed so slipped it in. Even worse. A closer examination revealed that the c/s bush that goes over the shaft and runs against the seal had a 'dag' on it on the inside rebate that sits against the O ring on the inside. It also had a nick on the outside, but seemingly is OK where the seals runs. A little stone work got most of the dag polished off and a new O ring and another seal might have fixed it now, but I can't really tell just yet as Carl, the dyno guy, lubed the chain up extremely well and there is now oil down there from that. I've cleaned it all up and will get some riding in next weekend and pay close attention to where it is coming from. Hopefully the c/s is OK now.

I will get on top of it. OrangeBerg has contacted me and offered a replacement seal so I'll talk to him next week.

For all the wonders of modern manufacturing, you'd think that it wouldn't happen in 2007! Still, so far it is really only cosmetic, and it is wonderful to ride.

Steve
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