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April 30th, 2007, 02:33 AM   #51
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From: Bathurst NSW Australia

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RE: It breathes !

Yep I spoke to John today as well. Shes in good hands Wal. He told me they have screwed up the turbo on it a bit, so you should get about 100hp out of it !!!! Lol. Sorry couldn't help myself. Aidan & John will have it back in the the bike in no time. You will probably want a sleep while they are working on it for you. We do Bathurst to Maroochydore in about 13 hours with kids and lots of stops. So Gladstone is heap further so take care on that road guys and arrive safe.
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May 8th, 2007, 01:35 PM   #52
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So Louee was the first proper test of my suspension since the valving work was completed. I had dialled it in at home and never felt the need to touch it at Louee. Wonderful, no deflection, no surprises, just traction and control over the whoops, rocks and ruts. Meant that I could ride all day Saturday when others couldn't.

Get your suspension setup properly to suit you, you'll discover a whole new world of riding pleasure.

Steve
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June 5th, 2007, 01:42 PM   #53
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Hi Guys,

I thought I'd post an update. 45 hours now and going strong. I've added some more functional bling and posted a couple of pics here. A case saver, just in case, from B&B and some radiator guards from Force Accessories having seen what happened to cafey18's radiator at Louee. I'd prefer B&B but they don't do them for Bergs and adapting them as per my 501 looked more difficult so I took the easy way out.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

Both heavy duty bits that just bolted on with 1-2 day delivery after CC over the phone.

The 650 does seem to use rear tyres more than anything I've had before, not sure why.......... Good thing I can get Dunlop wholesale. I'm currently using BS 201 front and Dunlop 952 rear. I did put an S12 on for a coast ride, but I like to keep them for the soft stuff as they just tear to shreds normally. I've got a couple of Dunlop fronts to experiment with but I like the BS 201s in my terrain.They steer like an S12 but last 4-5 times longer and are 20-30 $ cheaper. Had a few rides in some moist conditions lately too which was novel, good thing the 650 is easy to control.

There are still a couple of drips from the crankcase join after Suttos fixed it, but I don't think I'll worry about it.

As noted previously, the radiator fan does come on a lot, but no evidence of overheating, and it hasn't flattened the battery either, so so far, so good.

I have also noted that after a big hill climb, when you pull up at the top to wait for the stragglers, or half way up to help, that it can need the hot start to fire again, which means finding neutral because you need a clutch hand on the carb, which can be a bit of a pain so I think I'll get a remote hot start too (remember, its not about bling, if its about function!). Seems like heat soak, or something and may indicate that I am right on the limit of lean carburation.

Had a ride a couple of weeks ago in the Vic high country and we were getting back to camp a little late. Me, all smug, thinking no worries, I've got a new bike with a nice QH headlight. Didn't work though. My head torch had failed too. Duhhh. Trouble shooting at home found the bulbs OK and placed suspicion on the switch as it seemed to be working intermittantly after some flicking of the switch, after which it didn't. Further inverstigation revealed that the yellow, power cable's pin in the multi pin connector from the switch to the wiring harness behind the headlight had not seated properly in the housing, so pushed it in properly and now seems OK.

Not much else to report really, fuel, oil, Delo400 of course, and tyres and ride. Valves have not needed adjustment either. Runs great, starts everytime and leave a huge grin on my dial every time. I do like the magic button.

Steve
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June 5th, 2007, 02:40 PM   #54
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Nice work so far Steve. I am fitting a fan kit as well for the slow stuff and peace of mind. James from Renazco racing in the States has removed his thermostat totaly and said his thermo has only come on twice and that was after single track. Interesting !!!!
This thread might be of interest to you as well.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220512

Cheers
Garry.
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June 5th, 2007, 03:40 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by steve
Hi Guys,
I have also noted that after a big hill climb, when you pull up at the top to wait for the stragglers, or half way up to help, that it can need the hot start to fire again, which means finding neutral because you need a clutch hand on the carb, which can be a bit of a pain so I think I'll get a remote hot start too (remember, its not about bling, if its about function!). Seems like heat soak, or something and may indicate that I am right on the limit of lean carburation.
Steve
Great news on your ride and glad that you are having fun.

I would like to comment on your hot start button issue. It appears to me that you are in fact rich if you need the hot start as the hot start button when pulled actually leans the mixture by opening an air passage.

Where are you setting your fuel screw, and what pilot are you running?
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June 5th, 2007, 06:45 PM   #56
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Hi DaleEO,

You may be right about the rich condition, guess the fingers typed before I really thought about what is going on. Thing is the hot start has only been necessary when there is definite heat coming from below when it has done some work. For more normal, give and take riding, its been fine.

I installed the Lineaweaver jet kit as per Lineaweaver Kit Instructions. With the Kouba T fuel screw I ended up with the mixture at 1 1/8 turns and I lifted the clip by one groove on the needle to lean it a bit from the kit recommendations. I'm running a 160 main and I don't know what the pilot is as it has had its marking removed. According to the the kit instructions its a 48 or 49L. I have still to test 150 and 155 mains which I have, but as I'm rarely on it, the main that is in my normal riding, I haven't got too excited yet. This may however be the answer, as these hills I rode did require some main jet. I have ridden it over altitude ranges from sea level to 2000 m / 6500 ft so far and the behaviour is the same at both extremes.

When at sea level I found that an extra 1/4-1/2 turn on the fuel screw helped, and confirmed to me that its pretty right for my normal riding is at 800-1200 m, or 2500 - 4000 ft. maybe at the higher altitudes I could go to 1 turn. Thing is, a couple of these hills the other day start at 500 m and end at 1600 m. Get it wrong and its a big ride to the bottom to have another go.

I also removed the AP rod as per instruction and got a worthwhile improvement in initial throttle response by disconnecting the tps.

On my to do list is to experiment with leaner mains, and to reenable the ap, but with a set screw installed to control the duration. Too busy having fun riding at the moment though. Also going to put the steering head back to standard to see how that works now that I've got the suspension sorted.

Cheers
Steve
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June 5th, 2007, 07:48 PM   #57
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Hi Steve,
I agree with DaleEO, I think you have a rich situation. Also could be caused by the latent heat from the engine expanding the fuel at rest in your carby and causing a flooding effect. Check your float level is OK.
I have had my Berg tuned on the dyno by "Cafe Racer" here near Bathurst at Wattle Flat.
http://www.caferacer.com.au/
Carl is an absolute perfectionist, he will spend what ever time it takes to get it perfect. He has regular Sydney customers coming all the way up here just to get him to tune there bikes. And at a fraction of the prices in Sydney. He really knows his stuff and if you give him a call, be warned that you will be on the phone for quite some time !!!!
He has my Berg running around 12:1 to 12.2:1 air/fuel ratio accross the board, and the Berg produces a very nice broad spread of torque and power at that ratio. Considered a nice "safe" ratio for riding anywhere anytime. Standard the berg was quite rich at 11:1.
He also did an exhaust mod in house. Don't waste your money on an after market pipe, there is so much potential in what you already have. I'm giving the ProRider end cap back for resale as Carl modified the original, and a very nice job he made of it to.
He had my 640 Adventure running around 13:1 which seemed to suit that motor better running a little leaner, and again a very nice power delivery. I was surprised to find that the fuel injected bikes run up 14:1 !!! very lean, but they have the engine management to handle it and still be reliable.
Really unless you get your bike on a dyno with an exhaust gas anyliser you are only guessing. You may get it close but it's nice to get it spot on straight away. A bit like our suspension Steve, it's good out of the box, but with a bit of work they are sooooooo much better and more enjoyable. I shall show you the dyno chart print outs at the AGM.
Cheers
Garry.
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June 6th, 2007, 12:45 PM   #58
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G'day cafey18,

Might have to follow up on the dyno. Maybe I can arrange something for the day before the AGM, or as I'm going to Louee again in a couple of weeks I might be able to piggy back on that. We shall see. haven't been to Louee for years and now its twice in as many months!

I definitely think that heat soak has something to do with it, as if I stop and then restart within perhaps 20 secs its no problem. Its just if it sits a bit longer, then the hot start is needed. Its not a big problem, and it runs great, but the dyno will be interesting.

What does he do about rear tyres? Did he play with your AP?

Cheers
Steve
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June 6th, 2007, 02:47 PM   #59
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Steve,
Sounds like I really need to come back to Louee with you !!!!! I know have radiator guards so the fear has gone !!! You are more than welcome to stay at my place if you need to coordinate a stop over to get your bike on the dyno.
Yes I suspect that your float level is a bit high and when the heat expands the fuel in your float bowl at rest you are getting a minor flooding effect.
Carl changes your rear tyre and puts a road tyre on for the dyno runs. And when he puts your knobby back on he balances your wheel. Probably not a big issue on the rough tracks, but very nice for the transport sections or smooth trails at speed. I didn't ask him about the AP, I will now you have mentioned it.

Cheers
Garry.
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June 15th, 2007, 10:46 PM   #60
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G'day Bergers,

I fitted the remote hotstart. Its a KTM part that replaces the front brake master cylinder cover. Its billet, with KTM engraved on it and anodized orange. I polished it off. Means that if and when I need it, I don't have to find neutral. You usually only need it in an awkward spot. http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

I also decided to fit the AP back onto the carb. The Lineaweaver instructions say to remove the actuating rod which I did and can't say I missed it. I did miss it when fully deactivated on my 501 so I thought I'd fit a bolt to make it adjustable on the 650. I can get at the adjusting bolt with an 8 mm spanner without taking the tank off, so no excuses not to get it right. A quick ride around home is inconclusive so far.
A pic here
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

I'm starting at 1 mm, the amount of exposed thread on the bolt and will do some more testing next weekend at Louee. I'm happy with about 0.7 mm on the 501. I hadn't been to Louee for nearly 10 years and now its twice in a few months. I've also gone down to a 155 main.

After Louee, I've booked in on Monday at CafeRacer for a session on the dyno. It'll be interesting. More power is not the objective, but I guess I just want to find out, am I still too rich, or is 155 too small? I've spent that much money on this thing now that a bit more to finish it off will be OK, at least that's what I told the wife. When this is done I've promised her I'll fit the 300 kit and the Vapor speedo to her KLX. Both have been sitting in the shed for 6 months now. No rest for the wicked as they day.

Steve
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