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September 28th, 2015, 11:45 AM   #11
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I Ride: X2 08 Fe 650 & 04 Fs 650 berg, 012 700 rapter, 013 superjet, 98 wave blaster
This hooning thing .... Other word we call it grass track .... On farms , could have jumps, mud holes , ect
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September 28th, 2015, 12:47 PM   #12
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Actual meaning is to do something in an exagerated way, too much or similar. Full on with a bike will do nicely here.

We do a lot of different stuff together with similar bikes and race each other on a short circuit, should be viable for hooning.
It may be its not called that and we just wouldnt know Have fun!

Last edited by TomTom; September 28th, 2015 at 01:26 PM.
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September 29th, 2015, 02:26 AM   #13
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Hi TomTom!
Nice to see a neighbour having the same fun as myself!
I have just bought a set of new wheels for my FC550, thinking of the winter.
A question;
-do you have good experience with studded tyres from a manufacturer, used on ice. Or do you recommend making them yourself, using spikes or screws? (dangerous?)
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September 29th, 2015, 02:49 AM   #14
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This is what's generally done around here in Iceland:

- The guys who do winter dualsport/adventure riding, i.e. need to do pavement: Car studs in Trelleborg Army Special / Mitas XT-644. Like those made by Snellingen in Oslo.

- Winter enduro: Trelleborg Winter Friction pre-studded tires or Best Grip studs in MX tires. Not sure what tires are best for it, you want a compound that stays sticky when cold. As an example, one experienced guy uses either Michelin S12 or M12 as I recall.

- Full on ice riding: Mostly hand-screwed screws afaik, some use Trelleborg Winter Friction.

Always have a dead man's switch when ice riding!! One that shuts the bike off when you fall off. And even then some people advise to use fenders that cover the wheels. Which makes sense to me ...
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September 29th, 2015, 04:18 AM   #15
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Unless you make your own studs from bolts (which is a science in itself) I would say that best on ice is finndubb. Enduro tires for winter work but they flex too much to be taken seriously, you still have alot of fun but the front wash out easily at higher speeds and you have generally less grip. But if you are out to have some fun with your friends they can be more fun than finndubb as you fight more at lower speeds.
i personally use "Monster Mickes" tires, which you only can get where I live. They have enduro studs but are set much deeper and better so they don't flex much. Finndubb is better but when the ice is covered with loose ice/snow which will happen after some time they do have better grip.

Home made studs works too, but if anyone is serious enough to go through that hazzle they just go finndubb. The rest of us just buy enduro studded tires as they are used for enduro (duh) and are still fun on ice.
Another reason that most people here where I live don't go finndubb is that we also race on fields during the winter. Same places as we do the hooning/stubbåker, which then consist of packed snow/ice with snow walls. As there can/will be some dirt after some time you will ruin your expensive finndubb tires. So instead of changing tires all the time or use different sets of wheels most just go for a new good set of studded enduro tires each winter. That set stays on and are used for enduro (normal enduro tracks but covered in snow so you will see stones, dirt, water and roots in addition to snow and ice), field tracks and ice tracks.
Finndubb can only be used on ice and home made screws are not legal to race in enduro competitions.

Finndubb

Endurodubb


Studded enduro tires comes in many shapes and qualities.
Metzeler, Michelin, Mitas, Kenda, Shen shing, Bridgestone, Dunlop to name a few popular brands. Then you have different tires from those manufacturers and different ways how they can have the studs and how many studs... Some people prefer to have less studs on the side of the front tire, or with an angle more down than out to let the front wheel follow the snow track, while others like to have that side grip so the front wheel climb easier so you have more control of where to go.

There are many answers on which set of tires are best (many use different brands back and front) and you will get the definitive answer if you ask the owner over a cup of coffee. Be aware that if another guy joins in a debate might occur and then it's best to silently sip your coffee while slowly backing away. At the end of the day it's the guys that dare to give throttle and brake late who wins.
Thanks from tourist and Highflyer

Last edited by jon andersson; September 29th, 2015 at 04:50 AM.
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September 29th, 2015, 04:46 AM   #16
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fwiw the finndubbs look smarter and safer than what the guys here are using
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September 29th, 2015, 04:57 AM   #17
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I'm sure the best grip is when you make your own with screws as official ice racing is done on tires like that. But many happy/unhappy diy screw solutions range from normal screws through the knobs to proper sharp bolts inserted from the inside with washers and nuts.

I guess with a lot of hp you need sturdier studs/bolts but where I live people use their enduro/mx/motards and here a good set of bought studded tires is enough
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October 1st, 2015, 09:10 AM   #18
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hmm, there is (at least )one option not mentioned and that is using an enduro tire caucas along with studding in a different pattern/angles than for enduro. This setup will be quite close to the grip of finndubb but will last a lot longer, luckily there are people here locally that find it fun to poke around trying stuff out. This setup is good when the snow gets deep enough and you dont dare to clear the tire woting anymore

@ Highflyer:
Finndubb you can buy from both from finland and sweden(at least), the good ones will have the rear tyre caucas Duro and the front Duro or Mitas. There are both 18" and 19" rear size tires, but 19" is most common and recommended. So you need to get hold of a 19" rear rim unless you already have that.

MX/Enduro rear caucas with finndubb is a BIG NO, watch out for those.

If you like help finding a source for finndubb I can help you, just PM me.

Myself I just use regular finndubb as thats whats used racing here, so I never did muck around to find options, a set is usually just shy of sek 4000.
A fresh tyre lock is always a good idea and the rear tyre is mounted backwards from the indication arrows making the tire smile at you when standing behind the bike
If you got the slightest chance to do this, DO IT! It is indeed the ride of the year.
Here my finish bred ride buddy Juha sliding it wide on his GG300, we both ride HB 570 these days.

Thanks from Highflyer

Last edited by TomTom; October 1st, 2015 at 09:37 AM.
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October 1st, 2015, 10:18 AM   #19
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Incase you havent seen this activity Ill put up a vid. I film every ride I do so its a bit sleepy until 8 minutes, might as well start at 7:50. I usually try and make a good vid so sometimes I wait for one of the blokes having a slower bike and such, anyway should give you an idea what its like though.
When we get to the site we kick the bbq going ride some and then eat and chat about the past week, simple entertainment


Last edited by TomTom; October 1st, 2015 at 11:08 AM.
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October 2nd, 2015, 07:18 AM   #20
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very cool can't imagine having a barbeque in icecold weather looks/sounds tons of fun
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