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February 1st, 2009, 06:26 PM   #1
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crank locking bolt and crank twist

my 08 650 has its crank locking bolt on the rhs under the stator cover.

the 550 motor I have here has its crank locking bolt on the LHS of the crank as shown in the manuals.

in the manuals it says to tighten/loosen the flywheel nut with the crank locking bolt to stop the crank spinning.

I tried it in the 550 and it twists the crank. not enough to put it out of the 0.12mm limit in the manaul but enough to go from 0.04 to 0.10mm runout between centres.

its not a good idea IMHO. instead the flywheel should be locked with some kind of holder.

and on the bikes with a locking bolt on the RHS this bolt should not be used to hold the crank from spinning while tightening anything on the LHS.

the 550 had a failed main and its crank was badly twisted in the direction things go from tightening the flywheel nut as described in the manual.

sorry to state the bleeding obvious and apologies if someone has mentioned this allready.

regards
Bushie
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February 1st, 2009, 09:34 PM   #2
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Holding the flywheel does sound safe. Regards.
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February 2nd, 2009, 12:35 AM   #3
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in the manuals it says to tighten/loosen the flywheel nut with the crank locking bolt to stop the crank spinning.


didn't follow that?

regards

Taffy
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February 2nd, 2009, 12:59 AM   #4
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Some good points raised there.

Pity the 4T Kokusans werent like the 2T versions, that have 2 holes 180deg apart for a flywheel holding tool.

Even the old SEMs gave you a couple of indentations in the outer alloy hub to hold them with a special tool.

Another crankshaft "evil" which happens a lot is when people hammer away on flywheel pullers.....

I wont even get started on pneumatic impact tools, cause I got some people upset on another forum once when I aired my views
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February 2nd, 2009, 02:00 AM   #5
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Another crankshaft "evil" which happens a lot is when people hammer away on flywheel pullers.....
used to do that!
I wont even get started on pneumatic impact tools, cause I got some people upset on another forum once when I aired my views
i undo with them, is that ok?

regards

taffy
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February 2nd, 2009, 02:44 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Taffy
Another crankshaft "evil" which happens a lot is when people hammer away on flywheel pullers.....
used to do that!
[quote:yyvfc670]
I wont even get started on pneumatic impact tools, cause I got some people upset on another forum once when I aired my views
i undo with them, is that ok?

regards

taffy[/quote:yyvfc670]

Undoing with them is definetly more acceptable ........

Its amazing how many people use them instead of a torque wrench and appropriate holder for reassembly though.

They've definetly got their place, and in the hands of a mechanically competent person their scope for damage is reduced substantially

.
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February 2nd, 2009, 07:08 AM   #7
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Would you be able to undo the nuts with an impact tool without locking the crank, thus avoid the twisting as Bushy mentions?
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February 2nd, 2009, 08:48 AM   #8
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yes. when i use a 3/8 impact, i can just hold the flywheel with my hand
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February 2nd, 2009, 05:45 PM   #9
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hey spanner n ned that sounds good.

Taffy im sure you get it by now, twistimg the crank webs on the pin is the thing Im on about ill be round for a tea later.

I 'm always surprised how easy it is to knock a crank out of alignment and Im flabbergasted they stay anywhere near true in the engine.

just putting one down on a bench a little rough with one web hitting the bench before the other is enough to send it out.

a lot of bike shops don't even check crank runout "we can't do anything about it anyway" no wonder bikes with roller mains are hard to set up ........ 0.2mm runout .... blooday clowns !


BTW the 0.12mm runout spec in the manual comes from the old ball bearing mains days doesn't it ? seems like 0.05 should be a maximum, you can see 0.05 by eye.

reagrds
Bushie
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February 2nd, 2009, 05:59 PM   #10
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Bushy all we need to do now is work out how to do it up again.
I remember hearing a story once when the first 1100cc Kawasakis came out they were having trouble with the cranks spinning so they increased the interference fit on the pins they needed 80 tons to press them, in sounds a bit much to me, but dose anyone know how many tons to press a Husaberg pin in or out?
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