Husaberg
Go Back   Husaberg Forum > Mechanical and Technical > Mechanical

Mechanical Mechanical Forum - spinning bits and gyrating bobs


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
January 18th, 2009, 01:42 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
bushmechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
From: south east WA Australia

Posts: 3,840
Thanks: 1165

I Ride: 2008 700FK, 2002 628FST
counterbalancer - removal - oil jet?

removing counterbalancer

have made a spacer to support the roller lip, the spacer obstructs the counterbalancers oil jet in crank web

so leave it to spray oil onto the spacer and out similar as before or

machine a slot in the spacer to allow oil to spray over to the drive main or

weld the hole shut so the big end gets a nicer time,

last option sounds good but will there be less oil supply to the crankcases maybe

all options sound equally good to me what do you think

regards
Bushie
bushmechanic is offline  
 
January 18th, 2009, 03:25 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
AUSBERG's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2005
From: Sunset desert/ Murray River. S.A/Victoria Australia

Posts: 514
Thanks: 3

I Ride:
why the CB removal bushie??

I thought the bottom end worries were fixed on your year bike??
AUSBERG is offline  
January 18th, 2009, 06:38 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
bushmechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
From: south east WA Australia

Posts: 3,840
Thanks: 1165

I Ride: 2008 700FK, 2002 628FST
why the CB removal bushie??
I don't like it

i put the slot in, since the mains have more issues than the big end.

the bottom end of this bike is fine, 170 hrs and mains look great

regards
Bushie
bushmechanic is offline  
January 19th, 2009, 03:31 PM   #4
Moderator
 
ned37's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
From: back in cottonwood, az

Posts: 2,300
Thanks: 188

I Ride: '08 HUSKY te610
i removed the counterbalancer from my 02 650 about 1000 miles ago and did not rebalance the crank. i can't remember the numbers for the various weights of the rotating components, but seem to think stock it is about a 40% balance factor. my logic at the time was that since i'm riding it on very bumpy roads and trails that the vibration wouldn't be that noticeable. wrong. its very noticeable. the various sources on this board that have balanced cranks use anywhere from 30 to 70%. ??? anybody have an idea what a good balance factor would be for running most of the time at about half to 3/4 revs? any idea of the cost?
ned37 is offline  
January 19th, 2009, 03:58 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
bushmechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
From: south east WA Australia

Posts: 3,840
Thanks: 1165

I Ride: 2008 700FK, 2002 628FST
cost is free if you have an oven and access to a TIG

my stock setup was about 0.58 if you just remove the CB, I re-balanced to 0.75 since lineweaver was around there apparently

the 02 is about 0.51 I think, if you just remove the balancer.

weed is running 0.91 on the same crank as you and really likes it, he might let us know how good it is, I think he ran your setup for 6 months and it vibrated terribly at all rpm getting worse as the rpm rose.

I'll let you know how it goes with 0.75, I also welded the pin and fluked the runout at 0.0025mm one side and less on the other though im pretty sure it won't stay like that once its in the bike spun around a bit

I think as you add weight to the lobes opposite to the pin the flexing loads on the crank increase which is bad for the mains and as you go up in balance factor the horizontal vibration supposedly gets worse - also bad for the mains, but if weed is at 0.91and hasn't brocken his mains Id say the higher the factor the better for comfort since vertical vibes are near gone in his bike and perhaps we just can't feel the horizontal ones in the bergs?

regards
Bushie
bushmechanic is offline  
January 19th, 2009, 04:19 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
From: Ely, England

Posts: 15,444
Thanks: 403

I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
Re: counterbalancer - removal - oil jet?

Originally Posted by bushmechanic
removing counterbalancer

have made a spacer to support the roller lip, the spacer obstructs the counterbalancers oil jet in crank web

so leave it to spray oil onto the spacer and out similar as before or

machine a slot in the spacer to allow oil to spray over to the drive main or

weld the hole shut so the big end gets a nicer time,

last option sounds good but will there be less oil supply to the crankcases maybe

all options sound equally good to me what do you think

regards
Bushie
leave the oil to squirt out. the bike has a tiny .6mm hole on the end of the crank and the same again in the middle of the crank and no question the oil pump can whck in there 10 times as much as can get out.

that oil can drip onto the left main and also if you want: onto the intermediate inner. i remove the seals for that and have found no problems.

regards

Taffy
Taffy is offline  
January 19th, 2009, 04:49 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
bushmechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
From: south east WA Australia

Posts: 3,840
Thanks: 1165

I Ride: 2008 700FK, 2002 628FST
RE: Re: counterbalancer - removal - oil jet?

oil is now squirting along a groove in the spacer and hopefully in application mostly into the driveside main bearing rollers


do you take the seals off the camshaft bearings too ?

regards
Bushie
bushmechanic is offline  
January 20th, 2009, 12:04 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
From: Ely, England

Posts: 15,444
Thanks: 403

I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
RE: Re: counterbalancer - removal - oil jet?

i only take the outer out but t's not a scintific study, it's important to have gimmicks when you have a false persona!!!!!!!

regards

Taffy
Taffy is offline  
January 20th, 2009, 08:32 AM   #9
Moderator
 
ned37's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
From: back in cottonwood, az

Posts: 2,300
Thanks: 188

I Ride: '08 HUSKY te610
cost is free if you have an oven and access to a TIG
thx for the info bushie. but could you please 'splain me what the oven has to do with it?
also, in somebody's text, they talked about clearance problems with the weights. how wide should they be? can they be mig welded?
weed is running 0.91 on the same crank as you and really likes it, he might let us know how good it is, I think he ran your setup for 6 months and it vibrated terribly at all rpm getting worse as the rpm rose.
that's what i experience too.
ned37 is offline  
January 20th, 2009, 03:12 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
bushmechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
From: south east WA Australia

Posts: 3,840
Thanks: 1165

I Ride: 2008 700FK, 2002 628FST
ok I used the text tuning for speed in weeds gallery to calculate balance factor and with trial and error found out how much weight I needed to add to the lobes opposite the pin. weeds calculations have a small error we think

I made the weights out of 304 stainless 3mm thick mines the same shape as weeds but not as big, like his rod ha.

I preheated the crank in the oven to about 150 -200 deg and welded the weights on with stainless filler rod. just like weeds at the ends and with an 8mm dowel weld in the centre of the weight then I ran a weld on the OD of the crank and weights. its not comming off. at 8000rpm there is about 250 KG load on each weight. preheating reduces the likelyhood of the welds cracking, you can peen them as well for even more strength.

my tig has a foot pedal so I guess the welds were about 200 amp and 3 second duration I did spot welds rather than a big run. I found if you piddle around too much the filler material becomes hard and brittle so short high amp welds were the go. same on the Pin you want to be quick and keep the welds pretty small on the pin, its only really to stop twisting, the crank can still spread even with the welds.

not sure if a MIG would do it, you want to quickly heat the crap out of the crank in one concentrated spot with the TIG and as soon as you have a puddle drop some filler in, might not get enough penetration with a MIG. I guess you could disable the wire feed and put a thoriated TIG electrode in the handpeice then its a TIG.

the clearance issue is on the RHS where there are raised cast numbers and a bit of the casting near the OD of the crank web that needs a tickle with a die grinder. pics of that in weeds gallery too. I think you could go to 6mm wide if you needed to, weeds 5mm and mine 3mm.

I did a few test welds on an old crank and found the above approach to work pretty good. mild steel weights went crystaline in the HAZ and were not as strongly attached as stainless. I also peened the weld ends on the pin welds.

weeds crank is still working, haven't tried mine yet, hope it doesn't break ???

HTH

regards
Bushie
bushmechanic is offline  
Reply

  Husaberg Forum > Mechanical and Technical > Mechanical

Tags
counterbalancer, jet, oil, removal



Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
counterbalancer alignment adam85 Mechanical 5 August 27th, 2017 05:48 AM
Counterbalancer bearing dimensions please ?. AUSBERG Mechanical 2 September 17th, 2006 06:46 AM
Counterbalancer again Aspen Mechanical 8 September 28th, 2005 05:06 AM
counterbalancer install tm-enduro Mechanical 3 January 24th, 2005 03:34 AM
Crankshaft balancing without counterbalancer, how to verify? PowerFiend Mechanical 7 June 16th, 2004 07:26 AM


Facebook Twitter Google+ RSS Feed