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December 29th, 2008, 02:27 PM   #11
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

Had to do that when i was at college
had to do that yesterday spokes...
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December 29th, 2008, 03:37 PM   #12
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

I second the Snap On one
Brought one on Ebay new $A325 digital read out, even beeps and vibrates! 3/8 drive.
ft lbs, 5-100
in lbs, 60-1200
Nm, 6.8-135.6
and degrees.
Top bit of gear.

Cheers spanner
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December 29th, 2008, 03:42 PM   #13
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

i have 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 inch versions, just used mine tonight, class bit of kit
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December 29th, 2008, 05:00 PM   #14
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

I torque a lot of stuf. But I don't torque my spokes very much. I have initially and know the sound and feel of them. I true my own wheels from rock dings and have found that when truing a wobbly wheel I cannot go by torque and achieve trueness. And this makes sense . I do know that they are all in range but more important is my wheels are true
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December 29th, 2008, 05:16 PM   #15
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

hey pollo thats what Ive found too, and often a spoke that has the lowest tourque reading will tap the highest note. friction stuffing up the whole point of having expensive spoke wrenches. thats why I don't own one.

was lacing up a new wheel with thicker and longer spokes so needed a starting point for the correct pitch.
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December 29th, 2008, 06:45 PM   #16
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

Yea, the way I start a new wheel or sometimes restart an old one is to start at just snug from loose spokes and at the rimlock tighten 1/4 turn skip 2 then 3rd spoke 1/4 turn and so on. After 3 revolutions you have completed the 36. 1st time around you will come to that start spoke. Don't turn it. Move to the next and go again. This takes a while and you spin the tire after each 36 spoke adjust but you end up with them all torqued properly. If on the way during this process you come out of align a little I do little trueing but only in between the 36 spoke sessions. When Im done I do have some a little looser or tighter than others on a used wheel but check em after rides and my trues seem to hold just fine. I've brought them back from a couple of good hits where before I start trueing I will hit that baby pretty good with a hammer. You need to hit it right on the bulge. Don't be shy or you will forever have a blip there. I am a body metal man and painter so it comes second nature for me. You can true a wheel but to get them back real close you need to hit them too sometimes. I,ve even used giant channel locks to some success.
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December 29th, 2008, 10:14 PM   #17
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What is needed when building or truing is lube, then you will feel the correct torque!
Please leave the hammer & channel locks in your tool box they are not right for the job.
Use a press,plywood under wheel with aluminum shaft for pressing, several sizes will
help with different size ding's. & if the wheel is anodized sometimes several layers of
duck tape will help from making more mark's on rim.
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December 30th, 2008, 12:16 PM   #18
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Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

Originally Posted by Crispin
Originally Posted by Krisbrumm
compare the results- that one straight from foundry with that one after 6 year of laying down outside.
What do you think, which one will have better material features???
Obviously nobody in foundry don't wait 6 years, they make that synthetically, there is speciall procedure in oven to achieve the result after 9-10 hours instead of 6 years!
Apologies for butting in here.... if you’re referring to heat treatment used to change the mechanical properties & microstructures of a material in the foundry, versus leaving the same untreated material exposed to the elements for six years & getting the same or similar result? I’m afraid to say that this is in no way possible.

You could leave the item there for 500 years, and the mechanical properties/microstructure obtained with either alloy additions/heat treatments (such as age hardening), or more simple quenching, annealing etc), could never be achieved by merely leaving it in the rain.

I’m sorry, just as a metallurgist I couldn’t read that & keep my nose out…

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Crispin

I haven't ment nothing about heat treatment!!!
That what I said is call normalising, which got nothing to do with heat treatment like hardening or carbonising or nitrogenizing of the surfaces.
That what I said, is done only about an iron.Not the steel.That process just removing inner yelds inside of alloy.And is done, when castings of iron comes out from oven.Without that process, the iron is useless for machining.Every iron cast must had it, to keep all ISO standards for that kind of Iron.
If you cool down that, which melted in foundry, and try to machine it, you will say-scrap!!!
Then, after, they glow the castings to some 300-400deg. for few hours, and afterwards the castings are cool down together with oven.Finally your iron casts are able to be use wherever you want.And it got nothing common with heat treatment process!!!
Have you ever trace the manufacturing of the iron process from putting all intigrents to foundry (mainly iron and carbon), till you got ready to use casting?
If yes, you know what I'm talking about.
Apart from nitrogenising, what other heat treatment can you use as a IRON HEAT TREATMENT????
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December 30th, 2008, 02:10 PM   #19
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You still havent told me why i would want my torque wrench to work at 200 degrees c?
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December 30th, 2008, 02:15 PM   #20
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I know what you mean :P That with 200 deg. was an example for explaining what's happening with an iron cast.Got nothing to do with torque wrench.
But we all look after the results of using the torque wrench at 200deg, so do that, and then post a result comment!
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