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September 30th, 2008, 04:33 PM   #1
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First valve adjustment etc

Hello Berg Owners,

I am new to this forum and also a new "Berg" owner...2008 FE650E. Can someone advise or direct me to a step by step "valve check adjustment page or overview?"

Just so folks ain't no Honda CRF. I am still wondering why I haven't ridden the CR since the "Berg" arrived? Go figure...

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September 30th, 2008, 06:22 PM   #2
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Do a search on the site, lots of threads on valve adjustment including step by step instructions. Bit of religious debate at times whether to use 1/6 turn method or feeler gauges.

Check the doc

If still confused, get back to us.

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October 1st, 2008, 01:19 PM   #3
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Read this, print it out and put it in your toolbox.

Read this all the way through before using this as a guide.

with the vlave covers off, the ignition cover off,the spark plug out, push the motor through several times watching the intake and exhaust valves open and close.

You will notice that when the intake valves open, the piston is going DOWN on the intake stroke. Then, as you keep pushing on the kick starter the motor will kind of fee wheel, the intake valves will snap shut, and you will hear a puff of air come out of the spark plug hole, this is the compression stroke. As you keep pushing the kick starter through, the piston is now going down on the power stroke, when the piston reaches the bottom and starts to come back up you will see the exhaust valves open and it will be coming back up on the exhaust stroke.

As the piston comes to the top again, you will see the exhaust valves close and the intakes will begin to open, this is top dead center where you DO NOT WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES. This is known as overlap Top Dead Center.

As I said before, as you continue to push the kickstater through, the intakes will fully open, and as the piston approaches the bottom of the stroke, the intakes will begin to close, as I stated before the engine will free wheel a bit here. Now, put a LONG plastic ty wrap into the spark plug hole, and, using a 17mm end wrench, not a socket with a ratchet, on the nut that holds the flywheel on, continue to spin the engine in the direction it was going when you were pushing on the kickstarter. Watch the ty wrap as you turn the motor, you will see the piston pushing the ty wrap up out of the hole. Do this very slowly, and you will come to a point where the ty wrap no longer is moving up even though you are still turning the crankshaft, this the TDC or top dead center of the compression stroke, and THIS IS WHERE YOU WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES.

NOTE: If you try and turn the motor backwards it will be very difficult because you will be engaging the starter sprag of the electric start, and you will be turning the electric start motor too. Just keep going in the direction that the kickstarter spins the motor, and come around again.

If you go past TDC, no problem, just keep turning the motor with your wrench and watch the ty wrap go down on the power stroke, up again on the exhaust stroke, down again on the intake stroke, and as you come up again you'll be on the power stroke. ( Keep a firm grip on the wrench at all times as I mentioned before the motor will want to free wheel a bit after the intake stroke and if you're not paying attention you could get your fingers pinched. It's not going to rip the wrench out of your hands, but, if you're not ready for it, it can surprise you. Voice of experience speaking here.) keep going till you get back close to TDC on the compression stroke, now just take your time and slowly turn the crank with your wrench and wait for the ty wrap to stop moving up. Wa-Lah! you're back at TDC on the compression stroke where you want to adjust the valves.

Look carefully at your flywheel and motor casings, on my 04, there is a red line that was obviously put there by hand at TDC at the factory, a mark on the cases, and another on the flywheel. If it's there, and you followed the above procedure, it will just give you some conformation that you have arrived at the correct spot. If the marks are there but are not lined up, and you would have to move the flywheel a bit to get them lined up, try doing so and keep an eye on the tywrap if you don't see it move any, don't worry, you're there. You could only see movement of the tywrap at this point if you had a dial indicator on it, trust me, you're close enough. If you really want to be sure, do as Dale Lineaweaver suggests, and get the locking bolt as described in the 2005 repair manual and insert it on the compression TDC as directed in the book. But, I don't think the bolt is necessary.

Now that you're there, check the amount of clearance first, you may not need to adjust the valves. When checking the clearance, be sure you push the feeler gauge back and forth parallel with the rocker arm shafts, or parallel with the crank shaft. Be careful with the feeler gauge, do not force it! It will break off and fall down into the rocker box and you will have to retrieve it with a small pencil (uh oh) shaped magnet. This has happened to me in the past, if it happens to you do not panic. And what ever you do, do not start the bike, or poor oil through the valve cover in an attempt to flush it out. You will not get away with this and You will be sad.

Loosen the lock nut of the valve to be adjusted and back it off a turn or so, turn the adjuster ( the screw with a slot in it for a screw driver) counter clockwise to increase the gap, and clock wise to decrease the gap. I usually just open up the gap so I can get my feeler gauge in there easier, and then gently turn the adjust down onto it. There should be noticable drag on the feeler gauge, but, not so tight you can barely move it. With the feeler gauge still in place snug up on the lock nut, and check the feel of the feeler gauge. If it has not changed, tighten the nut to the torque specified in the book, and check it again, if it's changed do it over and set a bit looser intially, if it doesn't change you're done with that one. You do not want to overtighten these nuts, as they will deform the adjuster nut threads, and it will be a BITCH from then on when ever you want to adjust the valves. I'm not going to go into that now, just don't over tighten them. Get yourself a small torque wrench and use it, you'll be happier in the long run. (Again this is the voice of experience talking here)

Always allow plenty of time to do this procedure, turn off the phone,radio,tv, etc... don't do it in the company of others, do it all alone in a quiet place without any distractions. Don't rush!!

I hope this helps.

Dale "E" O!
"It is as useless to argue with those who have renounced the use and authority of reason as it is to administer medication to the dead." (Thomas Jefferson)
2004 FE550E
2001 FE501E

From the original thread
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October 2nd, 2008, 06:55 PM   #4
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I'd like to say thanks husabutt for your effort putting together that post for all the newbs on the site. It is quite daunting doing it for the first time but I honestly think that there will be a few more UHE members trying it if they read that post. I know it's in the doc, just not with as much detailed info. Might be an idea to link it directly ( to whom ever does this ) in the doc.
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October 2nd, 2008, 08:24 PM   #5
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Could not be said better, Good Luck ! Please let us know how it goes.
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October 3rd, 2008, 07:59 AM   #6
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It would behoove any newb or even long time poster to read through DaleEO's posts as there are some gems of information contained therein which are written in an easy to digest format.
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October 3rd, 2008, 10:16 AM   #7
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that document is in the doc
under poor starting
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October 3rd, 2008, 10:35 AM   #8
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the doc has evolved as a fill in to what IS NOT said by the factory.
after all, the first thing you're going to write down is that 'X' product is better,
then fit it this way is better, watch out for this or that. so at whgich point i'm
meant to repeat the service manual i don't know?

i see the doc as saying what the manual and the factory DON'T AND WON'T say!


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October 3rd, 2008, 01:34 PM   #9
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The feeler gauge adjustment don`t work after apx. 50 h.
The adjustment screws are after a while a little bit "worn" and the feeler gauge messurement don`t work.
The valve shaft`s hammer the adjustmentscrews konkave and then the feeler metod makes it impossible to adjust the valves.
Perhaps it`s better on newer bike but on my old -99 501 i had that "problem" with new valves and new adjustment screws and new seats.
Or it was no problem at all beacuse the valves didn`t need so much adjustment after the first 10-20 after the rebuild the Topplocksverkstan did to me, but when i did the decompmod i noticed the konkavement? on the adjustment screws.
So i prefer the 1/6 method i learned here at .
If you don`t understand what i mean so don`t care and do it on your prefered way.
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October 9th, 2008, 09:59 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the info fellas. I am learning the Doc is quite a valuble tool/resource. Up here in Alberta, Canada I have yet to chew the fat with another Husaberg owner. I know they are around, but Husaberg is still considered quite exotic in these parts. I am excited about the first service/fork tuning on my FE650 as the season is coming to a close and I will be able to spend some quality detailing and building a maintenance regiment...Cheers!
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