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July 3rd, 2008, 10:57 AM   #1
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lower fork leg casting

Hi All,

Finally got around to pull the front out of the Berg today, the damage is only to one folk leg slider of which I have one coming from the Uk.
The thing is how does one remove the aluminum casting on the bottom of the slider the leg I have coming is coming with out the casting.


Regards

Sparks.
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July 3rd, 2008, 11:21 AM   #2
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RE: lower fork leg casting

try and undo the compression stack out the bottom of the leg and do it while it's high in the vice. lay on bench and then tip fork up to catch the oil.

take off duct cap and internal circlip.

now, holding the two legs in each handthrust away each part: slap, slap, slap and the inner and outer legs will split,

get ready for lots of oil!

stick it in the new leg and if you want just add 480cc through the bottom eye of the leg to finish. otherwise you'll need to get the air height right as per the doc.

regards

Taffy
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July 3rd, 2008, 01:01 PM   #3
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Re: RE: lower fork leg casting

Originally Posted by Taffy
try and undo the compression stack out the bottom of the leg and do it while it's high in the vice. lay on bench and then tip fork up to catch the oil.

take off duct cap and internal circlip.

now, holding the two legs in each handthrust away each part: slap, slap, slap and the inner and outer legs will split,

get ready for lots of oil!

stick it in the new leg and if you want just add 480cc through the bottom eye of the leg to finish. otherwise you'll need to get the air height right as per the doc.

regards

Taffy
Taffy,

I think that you have misread my question, I already have the fork disassembled what I am asking is. How do you remove the aluminium casting from the steel slider?
i.e the casting that the brake caliper connects too.

Regards
Sparks
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July 3rd, 2008, 03:00 PM   #4
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RE: Re: RE: lower fork leg casting

got you!

it's in the fork rebuild document here at UHE. if you don't find it i'll send you a copy!

regards

Taffy
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July 3rd, 2008, 09:48 PM   #5
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Sparks,

I've ran into this once before. They are threaded together and WP has used tons of loctite. You'll need a fair bit of heat to melt the loctite. I had to use a cutting torch to get enough heat (don't melt the aluminum!!). Basically heat the aluminum lower until you're confident the loctite is melted, then clamp the lower in a vice, then use a strap type automotive oil filter wrench to unscrew the steel tube or stick a long punch in the holes at the top of the tube. It will take a fair bit of effort and you may need a buddy to help, cause the aluminum will shed the heat very fast and the loctite will set back up pretty quickly. We had to keep the heat on the lower while we were unscrewing the tube.

To reassemble, be sure to clean up the threads very well. Then use lots of loctite (I used red because this is essentially a permanent joint). You don't want the lower coming loose.

Take care,
nizzo
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July 4th, 2008, 12:19 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by nizzo
Sparks,

I've ran into this once before. They are threaded together and WP has used tons of loctite. You'll need a fair bit of heat to melt the loctite. I had to use a cutting torch to get enough heat (don't melt the aluminum!!). Basically heat the aluminum lower until you're confident the loctite is melted, then clamp the lower in a vice, then use a strap type automotive oil filter wrench to unscrew the steel tube or stick a long punch in the holes at the top of the tube. It will take a fair bit of effort and you may need a buddy to help, cause the aluminum will shed the heat very fast and the loctite will set back up pretty quickly. We had to keep the heat on the lower while we were unscrewing the tube.

To reassemble, be sure to clean up the threads very well. Then use lots of loctite (I used red because this is essentially a permanent joint). You don't want the lower coming loose.

Take care,
nizzo
Hi Nizzo,

Many thanks for the good explanation, will give it a try today, they say the alluminum casting is very expensive to from WP, on further inspection when I was stipping the fork leg the damper tube also is slightly damaged due to the spring squashing up against it but the damper rod is ok, this will also have to be replaced.

On reaasembly I have read some where that you leave out the aluminum tube and the centre bushing, the bike is an 04, if you look at the part manual for 05 these two parts are nolonger there.

Regards

Sparks.
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July 5th, 2008, 08:05 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by sparks
Originally Posted by nizzo
Sparks,

I've ran into this once before. They are threaded together and WP has used tons of loctite. You'll need a fair bit of heat to melt the loctite. I had to use a cutting torch to get enough heat (don't melt the aluminum!!). Basically heat the aluminum lower until you're confident the loctite is melted, then clamp the lower in a vice, then use a strap type automotive oil filter wrench to unscrew the steel tube or stick a long punch in the holes at the top of the tube. It will take a fair bit of effort and you may need a buddy to help, cause the aluminum will shed the heat very fast and the loctite will set back up pretty quickly. We had to keep the heat on the lower while we were unscrewing the tube.

To reassemble, be sure to clean up the threads very well. Then use lots of loctite (I used red because this is essentially a permanent joint). You don't want the lower coming loose.

Take care,
nizzo
Hi Nizzo,

Many thanks for the good explanation, will give it a try today, they say the alluminum casting is very expensive to from WP, on further inspection when I was stipping the fork leg the damper tube also is slightly damaged due to the spring squashing up against it but the damper rod is ok, this will also have to be replaced.

On reaasembly I have read some where that you leave out the aluminum tube and the centre bushing, the bike is an 04, if you look at the part manual for 05 these two parts are nolonger there.

Regards

Sparks.
Got the casting off with little problems, just warmed the casting with a paint stripper hot gun.
Inserted the wheel spindle and off it came, why don't all jobs work out like this.
Thanks Nizzo.

Regards

Sparks.
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July 5th, 2008, 09:46 AM   #8
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Glad to hear things worked out for you Sparks. Ya gotta love it when a job goes smoothly.

When I did the job we were updating 02 forks to the bigger front axle. We had bought new lowers and installed them on the 02 tubes. Sounds like I mighta went overkill on the loctite, cause yours came apart with just a heat gun. Our 02 legs needed to be literally smoking til they broke loose.

Best of luck with the rest of your repairs.
Nizzo
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July 5th, 2008, 09:58 AM   #9
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just for reference nizzo, what did those lowers cost you?

regards

Taffy
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July 5th, 2008, 05:02 PM   #10
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Taffy,

They were pretty pricey...
LH lower $329
RH lower $296
These are Calgary Alberta retail prices. However, considering I turned a good set of old style forks into late model forks for only $600, I think thats a good deal. What are new late model forks worth...$2000??

Nizzo
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