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July 19th, 2007, 05:02 PM   #1
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tuning questions?

ok who has done the following and can give us details please?

firstly, WHO HAS GONE TO tI VALVES OR STAINLESS STEEL? benefits weights, spring change also?

secondly, who has fitted a KTM camshaft? people have talked about it but talk is cheap! which katoom model?

thirdly, I SEEM TO HAVE STRANGE AXIAL ENDFLOAT FIGURES IN THE DOC FOR THE CRANK? .2MM FOR THE 450 BUT THEN .5 AND .6 FOR THE 550 AND 650?????????

regards

Taffy
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July 20th, 2007, 07:22 AM   #2
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RE: tuning questions?

I have tried Ti-valves, but I'm using stainless now. My humble experience says:

Ti-valves need to be of high quality with Ti-nitride coating all over. Maybe with a steel tip and/or lash cap. For standard valve sizes, I see no need, as the cam rollers are cheap.

The stainless last very long time, but they are heavy. I have lightened my stainless 40mm intake valves (from Porsche GT3) to 53-55gr, but I still get valve float at appr. 8,5k.

With roller type main bearings the competition department recommend 0,6-0,8 axial play. I have used 0,6-1,0mm without any downsides. In conjunction to this it is important to make sure the conrods axial play is somewhere 0,4-0,5mm, to ensure enough oil flow. One might get tempted to press the crank together to get enough axial play for the mains...
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July 20th, 2007, 01:02 PM   #3
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RE: tuning questions?

go into popups gallery, infact bring them here if you would of his spherical mains, ktm cam and even his SS and Ti valves!

did you stay with conical valve springs? i get the feeling that there is a far better set up with softer valve springs awaiting.

on your 37/32 head you should go OEM Ti on the inlets and springs to suit? just an idea?

anyway, need more answers.

regards

Taffy
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July 21st, 2007, 01:16 AM   #4
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Re: RE: tuning questions?

Originally Posted by Taffy
go into popups gallery, infact bring them here if you would of his spherical mains, ktm cam and even his SS and Ti valves!

did you stay with conical valve springs? i get the feeling that there is a far better set up with softer valve springs awaiting.

on your 37/32 head you should go OEM Ti on the inlets and springs to suit? just an idea?

anyway, need more answers.

regards

Taffy
Good day, Sir!
I did not understand your first sentence, or if it was addressed to me.

I have stayed with the conical springs. I select the longest springs for my 40mm intake valves. The conical OEM springs are not very hard, compared to other racing applications. As you know, the harsh ramping up/down of the lobes is giving the excessive accelerations.

Maybe I'll have another go with Ti-valves for the 40mm intake valves. The 37/32,5mm valves are screaming up and beyond 9k with a #55-cam, so I see no need for Ti-valves in that engine.

Don't we all need more answers...
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July 21st, 2007, 01:50 AM   #5
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RE: Re: RE: tuning questions?

i think you're missing a trick not to go to ordinary valve springs. it's getting the right ones though! if stainless is doing the job then good!

for you as a roadracer the answer would be in higher revs which will require every extra ounce in weight of the reciprocating parts being ditched!

popup has a nice photo of a spherical bearing which has special oil inlets....

regards

Taffy
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July 21st, 2007, 07:56 AM   #6
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RE: Re: RE: tuning questions?

I would have liked normal springs in my billet cylinder head. Due to the valves being moved out from the spark plug, there is very little space left for a larger diameter spring.

Yes, weight and spring rate is crucial. I have manufactured upper spring washers from grade 5 titanium.

I'll have to excuse my poor IT-competence, but I cannot find any Popup-gallery? Have I misunderstood something?
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July 21st, 2007, 10:16 AM   #7
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RE: Re: RE: tuning questions?

been asked this once already today and it's kinda my fault but he is a dingo lover so we have to forgive him: his other name is weed!

i reckon if belgique can fit standard valve springs then you can too! did you see the photo he put up three weeks ago when he couldn't start it? well it turns out you only need to remove a little alloy from under the rocker cover and all is well. think you need to try it and also look seriously at your mean piston speed and how you can increase it. i only know the 'feet' measurement but 4,500ft per minute is where you need max power nowadays.

regards

Taffy

am i right in guessing you know all about the composite carbon/alloy rod available for the husaberg?
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July 22nd, 2007, 12:24 AM   #8
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RE: Re: RE: tuning questions?

Ah! Weed rings a bell.

I had similar problem with the upper spring washer getting in contact with the cover, on my billet head. It will be even worse with a normal spring...

I'm lazy on the maths. What rpms are we talking about for a mean piston 4500ft per minute? My max piston speed is somwhere around 30m/s.

I know the swedish manufacturer of the "NASA" rods. What I do not have a good answer to is how to finance it. What else have you got? I'm a bit sceptic to fiddling around with thingys in the bottom end. Large forces are present and it can get expensive if something fails.
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July 23rd, 2007, 04:39 AM   #9
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ive fitted the ktm cam to my 2000fe501 it was the 55/520 exc cam from the same era. when comparing the two there was no differance except on the sprocket shoulder wich was thinner to suit the steel sprocket. cut the wp shaft off and they are the same as later models you can also get them in 53. i have ran this cam for 15hrs now with no problems. cheers flatchat
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July 23rd, 2007, 04:42 AM   #10
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good to know aussie and the confirmation i needed. i think that they were taking 2mm off the shoulder weren't they? and the coding was that in the parts number or a "reliable source!".

thanks for your help

Taffy
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