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July 11th, 2007, 06:01 PM   #1
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Rekluse auto clutch.

I just installed a Rekluse auto clutch on my 02 fe501 today. While I had the clutch cover off I was able to look and the condition of the cam chain,etc. I had read in the doc about needing to replace the aluminum chain with a steel one but it looked as new. I was wondering if I should worry about it or just wait and reinspect again later.

Is there anything else that I should check at this point or modify? I was curious about the cam chain chain tensioner modification.I understand about needing to cut the ball off of the end but I can not find any directions on how to access the tensioner. If anyone knows a link to a thread that explains this I would appreciate it.

I also plan to check and adjust the valves if needed. I have read all I can find on this and I am not seeing a detailed how to. Did I miss it? I read the post about putting up a video of this and other procedures. I think that would be awesome. I have watched some videos on Thumpertalk on the Husqvarna forum and they are great. It makes it so easy when you can actually see how something is done.

I appreciate any help on any of these subjects or any other areas of concern.

I plan to put coolant and oil back in the bike tomorrow and take it out for a spin to see how it works. I was also wondering if anyone had sugesstions on coolant and what mix. I have thought about using engine ice but am unsure.
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July 11th, 2007, 06:17 PM   #2
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RE: Rekluse auto clutch.

I think in 02 the cam wheel was already upgraded to steel.

When you do your valves, make sure you tighten the nuts well.

The method is simple otherwise. At TDC on compression stroke, undo the nut, tighten the little internal screw until it hits the top of the valve assembly, then back out 1/8th of a turn (1/6th is acceptable), and tighten the nut.
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July 11th, 2007, 06:29 PM   #3
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What is the best way to find TDC? Should I get a dial indicator as the manual says or is there a better easier way?
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July 11th, 2007, 07:30 PM   #4
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You can put something in there (everything but a pencil) and when the piston is at TDC the object will be at its highest point.

But if you remove the stator cover, you'll see where the line on the stator has to be, and then you'll know in the future.

You know you're on the compression stroke by covering the hole. If the air is compressed and pushes around your finger, that's it.
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July 11th, 2007, 10:02 PM   #5
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jeff

you sound like a real beginner my freind!

the camchain isn't made of aluminium it;'s the camwheel that might be and even then it's doubtful and i would fully expect it to be steel.

for the purpose of doing the tappets you need to pull the two inspection covers and the stator cover. then with a T-bar and a 17mm socket you turn the engine clockwise until the inlet valve pop up indicating that they are now closed.

if you look at the flysheel you'll note that the timing marks on the flywheel are at about 8 to 10pm. just turn the flywheel until the marks are at 12pm and you'll be very very close to TDC.

perfect for your tappets.

and if you need to ask where the camchain tensioner is i worry for you.....that's a question like where do i put the fuel?

you'll find the tensioner block is held in by two screws, half way up the barrel on the left hand side at the rear of the barrel. it virtually touches the exhaust.

just undo the two screws and it'll all come out fine. when you put it back in you must set the tensioner at zero clicks so it can start all over again. this it will do even whilst you kick start for the first time so you won't have any problems.

good luck!

regards

Taffy
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July 12th, 2007, 04:33 AM   #6
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Thanks for the advice Taffy. I am quiet the beginner at working on my own bike. I was pretty sure that was the camchain tensioner but just wanted conformation. I need to get a service manual for the bike. I misunderstood about the camchain in the doc. It says it is the stock one is shiny and not very good quality , not aluminum. I guess since it still looks new I will wait to replace it.

I will finsh getting the bike together tonight and test it to see how the autoclutch works. I am a beginner, but with good directions and a little time it does not seem all that hard.

I do really appreciate your help. I would rather ask questions than screw something up because I think I know what I am doing.
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July 12th, 2007, 07:16 AM   #7
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If it has the reusable master link, chances are it is a Regina. The DID chain has no such link. Also there is an obvious branding of the DID cam chains.
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July 12th, 2007, 09:15 AM   #8
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you should check the chain and forget how old the bike is or what the time of day is or how much a pint of beer is.

to check: it's the same as the rear drive chain. pull the chain up on the sprockets with your fingers and if you can see daylight underneath it - you must change it immediately! another indicator is the tensioner. if it has only 3-4 clicks left it is a shagged chain.

regards

taffy
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July 12th, 2007, 05:21 PM   #9
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I checked the valves and adjusted them today. I put everything back together, filled the coolant and oil and fired the bike up. I held my breath as I put it in gear without using the clutch lever. The bike just sat there. I gave the throttle a little twist and away we went. It seems to all work perfectly! ( not to bad for a rookie huh Taffy).


All I can say about the auto clutch is WOW! I really like it. I can't wait to go do some real riding. I want to say thanks to Ned 37 for the great deal I got from him on ebay. I would normally be a little skeptical about buying something like this used but I read some of his post and he had helped me on this forum with past questions so I knew he was a good and knowledgable guy.

When I had the clutch cover off I did check for slack in the camchain and found it to be good and snug.

When I went to check the valves the tappet screwed in maybe a quarter turn before it touched. I backed it off about an eigth turn and tightened the lock nut real good.

The coolant I used was Honda brand 50/50 blend. I have had some problems with the bike running a little hot when I am going real slow and waiting for slower riders. I used a product called water wetter in the coolant that is supposed to run as much as 20 degrees cooler and is supposed to be safe. Does anyone have any experience with this or engine ice? or have any opinions. It is not a big deal if I wasted money on it I just do not want it to hurt anything.
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