Cam chain tensioner lever upgrade question

LeFrog · July 6th, 2007, 09:24 PM

Following everyone's advice, I ordered a new cam chain tensioner as well as a new tensioner arm.

The new tensioner is longer by about a millimeter, I wonder if it was really worth the purchase, but the new arm (or lever, however you want to call it) seems to be beefier, but does not seem to want to fit in the 2001 because of a "bulge", left side (left when inserted in the engine, that is).

I wonder what I should do, between grinding it all off until the "bulge" is gone, or just taking a bit of it off, or what.

As is, not only the bolt does not go through all the way, but even if it did, the hex nut would barely fit and it would be ridiculous. It is also obvious the guide in the middle would be off and would obviously be gnawed by the chain.

I will attach some photos. I guess I still can use the old one but it is in really bad chain after my mishap and I'd like my chain to be tight.

Thanks for the help, all!

Taffy · July 6th, 2007, 11:15 PM

===== <u>Cam slipper (tensioner)</u> =====
An upgrade for 2000-02. Timing Chain slipper (tension arm) 800.36.002.000. Stepped Bushing (requires modification) 800.36.002.050.

http://www.maddel-online.com/uhe/wiki/i ... sior02.gif
http://www.maddel-online.com/uhe/wiki/i ... sior03.gif

you've just described the "modification" that is required!

well done froggy!

regards

Taffy

LeFrog · July 7th, 2007, 09:07 AM

I don't see why the step bushing would need to be upgraded. The new bushing is better because it is close-ended and therefore the little hex nut is not necessary. With the old bushing it seems that you need an extra washer if you want to use it with the new lever. No big deal.

I will adjust the part tonight (my garage is so hot these days I can only stay in there in the evening and no more than 90 minutes at a time).

Thanks!

AND oh yes, I have the new decomp shaft to install as well.

Taffy · July 7th, 2007, 10:18 AM

froggy

as you know the shoulder you have indicated must filed off. i have an old bodyshop file that was originally for body filler. a two minute job!

regards

Taffy

LeFrog · July 7th, 2007, 12:41 PM

Do you think I can keep the same bushing, nut and bolt?

Taffy · July 7th, 2007, 04:08 PM

yes. as long as the nylock part reaches the thread you should be ok.

regards

Taffy

LeFrog · July 8th, 2007, 02:22 PM

Here is the part after Dremeling and using a smooth sandpaper.

LeFrog · July 21st, 2007, 11:40 PM

Well, Taffy, I think my friend you were not right, this time, as indeed the new lever does not seem to be modified. What needs to be modified is the new bushing, should you decide to use it.

But I could fix my goof by adding a vinyl washer, that I drilled to fit. New lever fits great after a bit of work on it.

Maybe grinding the end off of the lever and using a vinyl washer, a little more tender than the original plastic, will end in the long run. Just have to check it once in a while.

See photos!

Taffy · July 22nd, 2007, 01:00 AM

but froggy, you have a different set up to me?

all i had was a nut on the far end so i needed the shouldered bushing to be longer than the blade it goes through. so i had to take off the blade.

now when you tightened it up froggy, could the blade still swing left to right freely?

because it lloks to me like the whole assembly tightens up and th blade is held firmly still. is that correct?

regards

Taffy

LeFrog · July 22nd, 2007, 10:20 AM

It is held firmly but still can swing freely. The new bushing is a lot tighter. The old system uses a tiny hex nut at the end that is very easy to lose and a pain to remove as well as put back. Just for that job I had to buy a pair of vise needle pliers.

By the way, when I reassemble the tensioner itself, do I push the blade all the way in or do I back it up all the way, put the spring in, then let it do its job naturally? I guess the latter solution.

Chain is super tight, but turns just fine.