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April 30th, 2007, 06:29 PM   #1
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Intake valve length

I ordered a new intake valve to replace the slightly bent one for my 2002 FE400. The part number I tried to order was 200 224 01 which I got out of the parts manual. I was sent an updated part number 590 36 030 000. Both are 35mm valves and are identical except for the stem length. The newer valve has a .050" shorter stem. Does anyone know if this is the correct replacement valve for a 2002? Can I install it as is? - I don't think the extra seat pressure would be bad, but it may hammer on the valve more. I guess I could also grind the washer to compensate for the shorter length. Any ideas? Thanks.
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May 1st, 2007, 06:52 AM   #2
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Re: Intake valve length

Originally Posted by Mogly406
I ordered a new intake valve to replace the slightly bent one for my 2002 FE400. The part number I tried to order was 200 224 01 which I got out of the parts manual. I was sent an updated part number 590 36 030 000. Both are 35mm valves and are identical except for the stem length. The newer valve has a .050" shorter stem. Does anyone know if this is the correct replacement valve for a 2002? Can I install it as is? - I don't think the extra seat pressure would be bad, but it may hammer on the valve more. I guess I could also grind the washer to compensate for the shorter length. Any ideas? Thanks.
Send Dale Lineaweaver an E-mail at HSBG4ME@AOL.COM

have you compared the valves to determine if the keeper grooves are the same height from the valve face? Where is the 0.050" missing?

That 590 part is the part number used for the 04-06 Husabergs.

Based upon what I know, I would not want to compress the conical valve spring ANY more than it was designed for in your 02. I had one break in my 00 501 at 347 hours. I have also had premature cam lobe nose failure at 221 and 100 hours respectively due to the extreme pressure exerted by the conical valve springs.

Please let us know what you finally do!

Regards,

Joe
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May 1st, 2007, 08:59 AM   #3
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Joe - thanks for the input. The distance of the keeper grooves to the top of the valve stems is the same for the old and new valves. This means that I am losing the .05" below the keepers, so the installed spring will be compressed more than originally. I'm going to try and find out if the old valve is still available, otherwise I guess I will have to do some grinding on the washer.
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May 1st, 2007, 09:17 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Mogly406
Joe - thanks for the input. The distance of the keeper grooves to the top of the valve stems is the same for the old and new valves. This means that I am losing the .05" below the keepers, so the installed spring will be compressed more than originally. I'm going to try and find out if the old valve is still available, otherwise I guess I will have to do some grinding on the washer.
They make different thicknesses of the valve spring shims. You should not have to grind them.

The correct way to measure the difference in spring compression from valve to valve is to install the valve in the head and measure the height to the spring retainer. No, I do not know what the nominal installed spring height is supposed to be. That is why I referred you to Dale Lineaweaver.

Regards,

Joe
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May 1st, 2007, 02:06 PM   #5
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i do. and i know where to find it..... you should know better than to doubt me joe!!!! (tish! tish!0

regards

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December 26th, 2007, 01:34 AM   #6
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sorry i was so 'cocky' but anyway, this was under "engine tuning":

Installed valve spring height
Installed valve spring height should be (1.320"). Seat pressure should be 75 LB -0 / +10. Installed spring height is measured from the retainer bottom to the steel spring seat. 1.320" (33.4mm) should give you near 85 LB seat pressure. .7mm is roughly = to a 13 LB reduction in seat pressure so make shims to fit under springs- (Lineaweaver).

what i would also ask that we just double check is this:

the earlier bike i have has very, very long collets and deep valve caps to suit. having rebuilt that sherco last week i observed that:

the valve grooves were nearer the top of the stem
the collets were tiny
that when fitted to the valve caps it took seconds and not minutes
that the caps sit virtually flush with the top of the valve stem.

conclusion:
if there is a chance that husaberg have in recent times gone to this design and these collets then DESPITE the groove being 50 thou (1.25mm) further down the stem the cap will sit higher and thus PROBABLY the installed height would be the same!

worth checking it out joe?

does anyone know or can they find out what the painted codes on the springs mean? they are obviously the strength codes but we need a reference?

with the later cam being softer, i note that the springs iddn't get any softer to take advantage of the new softer ramp speeds. however, the sherco i rebuilt had softer springs in a crude test i did. the sherco springs were colour coded but alas the husaberg ones weren't!

regards

Taffy
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June 14th, 2008, 06:29 PM   #7
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Has anyone fitted the early longer valves to a late model head. For the advantage of the larger diameter head for more flow on a 650?
The longer stem may also be an advantage if a higher lift cam is used in that it would help to keep the rocker arm geometry correct?
There appears to be enough adjustment on the rocker arm screw to accommodate the increased length.
Cheers spanner.
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June 15th, 2008, 04:02 AM   #8
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i have fitted 37s to a 35 head. it isn't a problem - just lots of work!

a high lift cam still has the same base circle so it shouuld always be a straight bolt in job. interestingls, the next problem is what i'll call the 'soap dish' halfway across the head. the lobes on the cam i have made miss this by about .2mm!

regards

Taffy
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