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July 20th, 2006, 07:37 AM   #1
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Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

I found oil leaking from my flywheel cover. Removed cover, pulled flywheel, found oil leaking from stator mounting screws. This is a 1998 FE600E. Should these screw holes go all the way through? If so, what do you use to keep oil from leaking through threads?

Also found stator body cracked and wires coming from stator having plastic melted off. This is after 2 rides with this "new"stator. What would cause this. Excessive heat or hot oil leak?

I can't afford to keep replacing stators after every two rides.

HELP!!!

Thanks in advance.

Steve
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July 20th, 2006, 08:12 AM   #2
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

BLB,

2 things

1. Your pic leaves much to be desired. If you can retake it and repost, that would help.

2. You should be able to use loctite to seal the screws. Make sure the thread of both block and screw are clean first. The blue stuff or red stuff should suffice.

3. I would also guess it could be your seal that is right there too. Check its history first. You (should) be able to replace only the seal from the outside, can't remember right now though.

That was 3 things, sorry.

-Parsko
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July 20th, 2006, 10:35 AM   #3
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

first time I pulled mine apart the screws had loosened and were rubbing inside the flywheel,had they broken it would have been a disaster!Loctite and keep an eye on them.The seal is an easy fix,just dig out the old one and replace!Where did you get your puller? and how did you loosen the nut on the flywheel?Dan wants 50 bucks for the flywheel holder and I was wondering If anyone had other options.
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July 20th, 2006, 10:51 AM   #4
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

Thanks for the reply. I can't remember where I bought my puller. Mail ordered it from someone making them out of CA. Carefully used an impact and no holder necessary. Popped right off.

When your screws loosened, was there oil leaking from behind them? I'm still trying to find out whether the holes going all the way through is normal.
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July 20th, 2006, 10:55 AM   #5
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

If I may add......

Verify that the stator screws do indeed penetrate the crank case.

I agree with Parsko, could just be the oil seal leaking.

As far as the stator melting and cracking, yes if the plastic insulation is melting on the wires it's getting really hot. Also, a little history please.

Have you owned this bike since new?

If the bike was bought used, was the ignition a problem when you bought it? Or did this problem just start?

Which wires EXACTLY are, or did you find melted?

Have you recently added any new wiring or electrical load recently?

Have you had a consistent over heating problem?

If so, is the water pump impeller intact and locked onto the shaft with the little pin that goes through the shaft? An easy way to tell without taking it apart is to start the bike and watch for coolant flow in the radiator with the cap off while gently revving the motor.

You mentioned replacing the stator more than once, did you time the ignition corretly when you installed that last ignition?
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July 20th, 2006, 11:08 AM   #6
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

Tools needed for splitting the older engines, homebrew flywheel holder in the lower right, looks like an upside down "U":

PICTURE

More info about splitting the case:

Parsko's Husaberg, crank splitting info at bottom.

Hope this helps!

-Parsko
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July 20th, 2006, 11:23 AM   #7
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

Hi Dale,

I've had the bike a few years now but only get to use it maybe two weekends a year or so.

Oil is definitely coming through the screw holes. I've got the stator off now and had to put the screws back in to keep the oil from flowing out. I'm not sure where the other end of the hole goes. I was assuming into the case, but please tell me if otherwise.

I don't have the bike here. Decided to take it to Euro Motors in Davison, MI and let them have a look. Since I really only have ridden the bike twice since I put the last stator in, I was hoping there would be a way to have the stator covered under warranty. They are going to review my electrical as well. No I haven't added anything to draw any extra current. Headlight, taillight. Thats it. Rarely use the lights as I do mostly woods riding during the day. Front brake light wiring is disconnected.

As for running hot, I'm not sure how to answer. I have seen antifreeze coming out of the overflow if I'm sitting for a long time while the bike is running on a hot summer day. I'm afraid to shut it off while it's hot for fear that it won't restart, as the bike has been troubled with hot restart problems for one reason or the other over the years. I do believe I've seen it flowing in the radiator with the cap off while running.

A common problem I have had in years past is, if I lay the bike down while riding, or stall the bike, it is very difficult to start. I can run the battery dead, and then kick it until I'm dead, and nothing. At that point I'll assume the plug is soaked, but upon checking, find the opposite. It will be bone dry. Can anyone explain this phenomenon?

After a long time, usually after walking back, getting a truck, bringing the bike back to the cabin, I can kick it once, and restarts. Talk about frustrating.

Any help or advise recommendations, etc., are more than welcome.

As for the burned wires, I'm trying to remember, but I believe it was the black.

Thanks,

Steve
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July 20th, 2006, 12:14 PM   #8
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

Originally Posted by BlueLakeBerg
Hi Dale,

I've had the bike a few years now but only get to use it maybe two weekends a year or so.

Oil is definitely coming through the screw holes. I've got the stator off now and had to put the screws back in to keep the oil from flowing out. I'm not sure where the other end of the hole goes. I was assuming into the case, but please tell me if otherwise.

I don't have the bike here. Decided to take it to Euro Motors in Davison, MI and let them have a look. Since I really only have ridden the bike twice since I put the last stator in, I was hoping there would be a way to have the stator covered under warranty. They are going to review my electrical as well. No I haven't added anything to draw any extra current. Headlight, taillight. Thats it. Rarely use the lights as I do mostly woods riding during the day. Front brake light wiring is disconnected.

As for running hot, I'm not sure how to answer. I have seen antifreeze coming out of the overflow if I'm sitting for a long time while the bike is running on a hot summer day. I'm afraid to shut it off while it's hot for fear that it won't restart, as the bike has been troubled with hot restart problems for one reason or the other over the years. I do believe I've seen it flowing in the radiator with the cap off while running.

A common problem I have had in years past is, if I lay the bike down while riding, or stall the bike, it is very difficult to start. I can run the battery dead, and then kick it until I'm dead, and nothing. At that point I'll assume the plug is soaked, but upon checking, find the opposite. It will be bone dry. Can anyone explain this phenomenon?

After a long time, usually after walking back, getting a truck, bringing the bike back to the cabin, I can kick it once, and restarts. Talk about frustrating.

Any help or advise recommendations, etc., are more than welcome.

As for the burned wires, I'm trying to remember, but I believe it was the black.

Thanks,

Steve
Hmmmmmmmmm...............

Sounds like you either have a sticky float/needle set up in the carb, or the float height is off. Not having the float height set correctly will make the bike hard to start, especially if it's set too low as the pilot jet is at the top fo the float chamber. Either way, I'd have the bike shop go through the carb and clean it out thoroughly as with the amount of usage that you get, and if you don't drain the float bown completely, there is a very good chance that the jets are clogged with varnish.

The starting problem is just that a problem. You should not have that much trouble restarting the bike as long as it is tuned properly. Have the valves been adjusted lately? This is a great contributor to starting issues, as well as not having the carburetion set up properly. When you are trying to restart the bike hot, have/did you try using the choke? What is your starting procedure when cold?

To gain a bit more clarity, I believe that there are 3 screws that hold the stator, is oil coming out of all 3 or just the lowest one? I find this a bit odd anyway but stranger things have happened. A suggestion, and or question here. When you change your oil, do you measure how much you put in? Those motors are only supposed to have a litre of oil, I think there's a 1L cast into the case right next to the fill hole. When you change your oil, after the bulk of the oil has drained out, you should hold the kill button down and kick it through a few times as this will remove the remaining oil that's in the crankcase, and it will then drain out through the drain hole.

The Husaberg engines have a little reed valve on the clutch side of the crankcase that allows the oil in the bottom of the crankcase to be pushed out while the piston is coming down, and as the piston starts back up the reed valve closes. While oil will accumulate in this area if the bike has been sitting, I guess if the stator screws went into the crank area it would make oil flow as you say out of the holes if the screws are removed. I have to wonder whether you bike is/has been overfilled with oil as well.

As far as the oil coming out of the stator screw holes. Who changed the last ignition? As parsko said one should be able to seal the screws with a lock tite sealant product.

Another thing to keep and eye on, when you change the air cleaners, be sure and look down into the boot that connects the carb to the back bone of the frame and make sure there isn't puddle of oil sitting down there in front of the carb. If there is, be sure and sop it up with a clean rag.

Back to the melting wires, the reason I asked about the electrical system is that the yellow wires are the 12 volt output of the stator, with the blue being the ground reference for the 12 volt system, and the other wires are for the ignition. So I was wondering if there was some kind of high load on the charging/lighting system. That's good that your shop is looking over the elelctrical system.
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July 20th, 2006, 01:10 PM   #9
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

Originally Posted by DaleEO
Originally Posted by BlueLakeBerg
Hi Dale,

I've had the bike a few years now but only get to use it maybe two weekends a year or so.

Oil is definitely coming through the screw holes. I've got the stator off now and had to put the screws back in to keep the oil from flowing out. I'm not sure where the other end of the hole goes. I was assuming into the case, but please tell me if otherwise.

I don't have the bike here. Decided to take it to Euro Motors in Davison, MI and let them have a look. Since I really only have ridden the bike twice since I put the last stator in, I was hoping there would be a way to have the stator covered under warranty. They are going to review my electrical as well. No I haven't added anything to draw any extra current. Headlight, taillight. Thats it. Rarely use the lights as I do mostly woods riding during the day. Front brake light wiring is disconnected.

As for running hot, I'm not sure how to answer. I have seen antifreeze coming out of the overflow if I'm sitting for a long time while the bike is running on a hot summer day. I'm afraid to shut it off while it's hot for fear that it won't restart, as the bike has been troubled with hot restart problems for one reason or the other over the years. I do believe I've seen it flowing in the radiator with the cap off while running.

A common problem I have had in years past is, if I lay the bike down while riding, or stall the bike, it is very difficult to start. I can run the battery dead, and then kick it until I'm dead, and nothing. At that point I'll assume the plug is soaked, but upon checking, find the opposite. It will be bone dry. Can anyone explain this phenomenon?

After a long time, usually after walking back, getting a truck, bringing the bike back to the cabin, I can kick it once, and restarts. Talk about frustrating.

Any help or advise recommendations, etc., are more than welcome.

As for the burned wires, I'm trying to remember, but I believe it was the black.

Thanks,

Steve
Hmmmmmmmmm...............

Sounds like you either have a sticky float/needle set up in the carb, or the float height is off. Not having the float height set correctly will make the bike hard to start, especially if it's set too low as the pilot jet is at the top fo the float chamber. Either way, I'd have the bike shop go through the carb and clean it out thoroughly as with the amount of usage that you get, and if you don't drain the float bown completely, there is a very good chance that the jets are clogged with varnish.

You may have something there with the sticky float/needle. I'm currently running a Keihin carb. May go back to the "Big D". We'll see what the shop says.

The starting problem is just that a problem. You should not have that much trouble restarting the bike as long as it is tuned properly. Have the valves been adjusted lately? This is a great contributor to starting issues, as well as not having the carburation set up properly. When you are trying to restart the bike hot, have/did you try using the choke? What is your starting procedure when cold?

It seems that with the current tuning I don't even have to use the choke for cold starting. Can't recall whether I've tried for hot starting. For cold starting I kick it over slow a few times with the ignition off until I hear it blubber a little, then I bring it just past top of compression stroke and kick it through. Usually starts first or second time. Of course I've got it leaning on a tree at that point so I can really focus on the kick and not worrying about trying to hold the bike up.

To gain a bit more clarity, I believe that there are 3 screws that hold the stator, is oil coming out of all 3 or just the lowest one? I find this a bit odd anyway but stranger things have happened. A suggestion, and or question here. When you change your oil, do you measure how much you put in? Those motors are only supposed to have a litre of oil, I think there's a 1L cast into the case right next to the fill hole. When you change your oil, after the bulk of the oil has drained out, you should hold the kill button down and kick it through a few times as this will remove the remaining oil that's in the crankcase, and it will then drain out through the drain hole.

I usually fill to the lower edge of the oil fill opening. I can't say I measure how much I'm putting in or out. I'll try your advise on the kicking out of the extra oil. As for the screw holes, I'm pretty sure at least two of the three. Again, don't have the bike here to give you firm answers.

The Husaberg engines have a little reed valve on the clutch side of the crankcase that allows the oil in the bottom of the crankcase to be pushed out while the piston is coming down, and as the piston starts back up the reed valve closes. While oil will accumulate in this area if the bike has been sitting, I guess if the stator screws went into the crank area it would make oil flow as you say out of the holes if the screws are removed. I have to wonder whether you bike is/has been overfilled with oil as well.

As far as the oil coming out of the stator screw holes. Who changed the last ignition? As parsko said one should be able to seal the screws with a lock tite sealant product.

Had another shop diagnose and change out last stator. Very reliable shop but not a Husaberg dealer.

Another thing to keep and eye on, when you change the air cleaners, be sure and look down into the boot that connects the carb to the back bone of the frame and make sure there isn't puddle of oil sitting down there in front of the carb. If there is, be sure and sop it up with a clean rag.

Back to the melting wires, the reason I asked about the electrical system is that the yellow wires are the 12 volt output of the stator, with the blue being the ground reference for the 12 volt system, and the other wires are for the ignition. So I was wondering if there was some kind of high load on the charging/lighting system. That's good that your shop is looking over the electrical system.
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July 21st, 2006, 08:50 AM   #10
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Re: Oil Leak from Stator Screws?

I suggest on your next oil change that after you have removed all the oil, you measure out exactly 1L of oil and add that. If you happen to be putting in too much oil it would not be good, and too little worse.

I hope that the shop can find some answers for you. Just for the record, my 2001 501E equipped with the Delorto worked flawlessly, and still does. Hot starting was not an issue, nor was cold starting.

Best of Luck! Keep us posted.
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