JulienN

Dear community

I finished the assembly of the engine. I replaced every parts of the carb. Identical to origin except main jet which was not available at 185 but 190.
I have check the clearance of the valve to 1/6 turn méthods.
The ignition plate set up is controlled as described in the photo below :



But my Zab refuse to start
So I removed the upper part of the cam tu check the position of the shaft versus the piston. Screw alignment was perpendicular to the horizontal border of the head when piston is at tdc.
What I dunno is : Is there a spark at every turn of the engine ? Or only 2 turn ? Is it possible to be misalign from 180deg with the cam shaft ? How to be sure that the distribution is well set ?


Other question : this cam on picture hereunder just move around freely. And the little spring on the other side of the gear doesn’t have any use/effect. Can you inform me of it is normal please ?




Do anyone have the 1997 service or/and owner manual please ?

heidenberg

You need to remove the decomp and either replace or rewind the spring, when installed properly it will stay against the cam ledge and snap back when pulled

Taffy

Bonjour

Your cam still has a very thick shoulder coming through the middle of the cam sprocket. get the shoulder machined flat to the cam sprocket by an engineer. then fit the later auto decomp and spring.

you get a spark everytime up. sticking a strraw or something through the plug hole is not a good way to get TDC.

I use a T-bar and 17mm socket on the crank and I'm very slow and careful. I use a long threaded stud I have here. 20cm long. I dome the end. I then push into the hole and lock over to the side with one hand. use a rubber band to keep it there.

then turn the engine each way and where the piston stops mark the flywheel. you can move the stud one thread up or down. you want to be marking 25mm left and right of centre and then measure the 50mm between them and mark TDC.

you want a wet plug/piston from the fuel.
you weant a spark.
you are halfway there!

Taffy

husabutt

Julien:

Taffy is referring to the "Dead Stop Method" or "Positive Stop Method of finding TDC. Taffy has made his own tool that fits into the spark plug hole. I got this one from Hayabusazone - Cylinder Heads

Attached Thumbnails

 

DominiqueDDB

Julien,

Contactes moi par mp je te donnes mon numéro de téléphone afin de t'expliquer ce qui ne fonctionne pas.
Dominique

JulienN

Dear community,

I started the restauration for my husaberg 400FE.
I’ll post here the follow up and pictures.

Open of the original engine this week end. (Former Crankshaft been bent by valve adjuster while engine was running)

Taffy

Quote; "Former Crankshaft been bent by valve adjuster while engine was running"

can you explain a little more?

regards

Taffy

JulienN

The mobile pad (rotule at the end of the setting valve screw) been lost in the valve case and fund it way through the distribution chain hole.







The pad has met the crankshaft sprocket and tried to go between this one and the clutch sprocket (how possible... )





The rotation of the engine made a lot of effort when it blocked and now the crankshanft is not turning round anymore. (I think it can be renew)

My work now consist in restauration of this engine. It is the original engine of my bike, using new bearings and seals. I will use the Cranckshaft , piston+cylinder that is present on the engine that is inside the bike at this moment.
This was a spare bottom engine that the former owner of the bike found on spare market. It never started up since he put his cylinder+piston on it. The cylinder Nickasil has been renew and piston changed 4 hours before the original engine broke.

Taffy

aah! yes, the classic home mechanic...'the garagisti' as Enzo Ferrarri would say.

tappet nut was too loose and so it unscrewed.

the crank gear will probably cope with that one very bad tooth as your bike is only a 400. If you can find a 'used' one out there they are the same part from 1989-2000.

I think I have one new one left. Not sure if i have a used one?

that clutch basket will be fine but you must remove the high points. forget the low points. it is like a boxers jaw, it goes in one side but it comes out on the other side and it is this; "other side" that is not good.

make sure the clutch bush is very good. when I began I was told that the clutch bush was getting worn quickly and was critical. so now 12 years later I sell none because the garagisti are all experts and know better!

the nut for the tappets must be pulled very tight because the thread is so loose.

regards

Taffy