Taffy

the easystart and jet kit are one and the same thing. I have only done the easystart kit for I would guess 4 years tops? if that is 7 years old it will be the spruce up kit...not the same thing and explains the 38. sorry but the details are everywhere.....

Taffy

Alfy

Adjusting the carburetor float is another cause of the malfunction. Have you checked this component?

herrlantz

Also, I'd like to remind you that the previous owner had stated that the bike ran great with this carb setup before.

Actually, the bike ran better before I started repairing it..

I will check the stator and get a hold of a timing light. If that seems OK I'm starting to think the cam cover needs to come off again..

herrlantz

Well I've had the carb down 4 times now and have not noticed anything off with the float. What could be wrong with it? (Except bad float or bad float valve, which I haven't fully tested but kind off assumed were fine since I'm not getting any overflow)

Alfy

If the float is not correctly adjusted, the fuel level in the carburettor tank will be either higher or lower than the correct value. This affects the correct fuel mixture ratio.

Read the correct value from the maintenance manual, on the page where the carburettor setting is indicated. To correct the position of the float, it is necessary to blow into the fuel line and check which height of the float corresponds to the closure of the valve, then check that height
corresponds to the correct one in the manual

Taffy

attached is a photo of where the CD1 jet goes. it sits under the pilot jet and many, many pre-2001s have it missing. nothing to do with you HerrLantz.

BUT, look at the angle of the float arm. completely wrong. you and Alfie would bend it flat. That would also BE WRONG.

The fuel valves usually come with a 1mm thick fawn coloured fibre washer underneath and what they want is somewhere around 0.6mm. there's even 0.75mm I've seen. It's a Dell Orto thing I'm afraid.

the list of jobs is endless. Dell Orto only quote 1 size. they sell only 1 size but any 1 of 3 sizes can come with a new one.

:mad :

Taffy

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herrlantz

The journey continues..

I adjusted the valves today (morse code was achieved with 0.10mm feeler gauge) . The intake valves were a little snug, but nothing major.

No difference in behaviour.

Checked the spark and it looks a bit weak. Checked all wires from stator and all ground wires. Nothing bad found. How come I have a weak spark? (From what I can tell)

Got it running. No idle and same as before. Feels like it's running "heavy", in lack of better words. It doesn't misfire, pop and bang, it just sounds and feels like it's something holding it back. Can't really explain it.

Tried with starter spray a few times when I tried getting it started. It seems to help since the cranking gets quicker with starter spray. It wants to fire but will take you many many tries before it actually starts (and only with 1/4th throttle).

Will put some fuel in the spark plug hole and see what happens. I'm all about ruling out things now. After that I will probably check float and float valve according to previous posts, but it sounds far fetched to me..

Taffy

if it spins quickly with no popping an banging then the ignition timing may be retarded.

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herrlantz

I've been busy with other stuff lately but got a good 4 hours with the husa tonight. I hate this bike.

1. Drained and removed cooler. Disassembled the rocker cover and checked the cam in case I had assembled it 1 tooth off or something when I had everything down the first time. I hadn't. Checked with the workshop manual just to make sure and concluded that cam is installed correctly. Checked valve springs and rockers. All looks good. Assembled rocker cover again. Installed cooler and filled up with coolant again.

2. Disassembled carburetor for the hundredth time. Removed all jets and made sure they were (still) clean. Checked float valve and float assembly. It's within spec and looks good. Assembled carburetor again and installed.

3. Removed the stator and measured the wires:
Black&red 2890 ohms
Black&green 135 ohms
Yellow&blue 0.9 ohms
Not exactly what husabutt said it should be..

4. Installed the stator and set the engine at TDC. The white line is dead center in the inspection hole at this point. I set the stator about 1-2mm to the left of the white line. Remember I have already tried all possible settings with no luck before.

5. Checked the spark plug while cranking. I have spark. Possibly not the brightest I've ever seen, but good enough to run the engine.

6. Drained the oil just to have a look at it in case something within the engine itself had broken without my knowledge. Oil looked fine. Filled up with new oil.

7. Time to start trying to start. Again. Same thing. No difference what so ever from what I've mentioned earlier.

8. Sat down on a stool next to the bike. Looked at my 1940 harley and my 1954 triumph which both works fine. Thought to myself that I will forever stick to old school bikes simply because they always work with some love and elbow grease. Maybe the husa won't start because I've developed hate for it? Mayne the husa doesn't like me?

9. Stopped imagining throwing the husa in the river and started thinking step by step what has been done to this bike since I got it (and remember, it started and idled fine when I got it). I concluded that everything I've done to it has been checked, re-checked and triple checked by now. EXCEPT the wiring. It is a pretty bare bone and simple diagram, and I didn't replace anything in the loom, I just hooked everything back up after the complete teardown of the bike.

10. Could I have wired something wrong or missed something that could cause this behaviour?

herrlantz

Also. Starter spray doesn't help.. it wants to fire but doesn't.