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April 23rd, 2020, 12:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by husabutt View Post
Your timing could be off one tooth where the balancer gear meshes with the primary gear.

The cam gear could also be off one tooth where it attaches to the timing chain.


How did you determine TDC ?
How worn is the timing chain?
What was wrong with the cam chain tensioner that it required replacement?
The engine was on the work bench and i used the old fashioned way of putting a straw in the spark plug hole until it reached the very top on the compression stroke. The timing chain looked OK. I meant to say cam chain guide in my first post, not tensioner. I replaced the plastic guide since the bolt holding it in place was worn out and had caused the crack in the head probably from over tightening in a bad angle.
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April 23rd, 2020, 05:05 PM   #12
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Even though you had stated that something had been done to the stator (SEM), replaced or rewound no doubt, it is still very fragile and sensitive to moisture (keep it dry especially after washing. It should probably be checked. Here are updated specs from U.K. Motoplat, the go to place to have the SEM stator rewound.

UK Motoplat - Bradford Ignitions:

1999 to 2003 >>> black & red 3000 Ohms
> black & green 165 Ohms

Yellow & Blue, greater than 1.0 Ohm

As a quick check if you have a nice big fat blue spark the stator is probably O.K. If the spark is weak or hard to see the stator is probably bad.

Last edited by husabutt; April 24th, 2020 at 07:54 PM.
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April 23rd, 2020, 11:14 PM   #13
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sorry about that, brain fart!

first of all, you can't get a plug colour with modern fuels. the unleaded revolution was in 1988 yet this attitude still persists. you had a blocked jet as well!

you should need the choke to start the bike, especially if it has had a jetting kit. but 7 years ago, all I did was the 'spruce up' kit. things have moved on.. confirm with me what kit it had at the time?

the stator should NOT need to move when it is a SEM. here is a diagram of what you need.

remember, when you set the stator it has nothing to do with the flywheel. so if it helps, take the cover off and set the timing while holding it in your hands.

the white line on the flywheel is there for if you can strobe the timing. that is the only time that marked white line comes into it.

always set up the idle as low as possible, then the fuel screw (which should up the idle), then lower the idle, then adjust the fuel screw (up again), then the idle for the third time.

when you find a range of idles work, while the engine is hot try the starter and kickstart with different positions for easiest starting.

finally, stop the engine, count the turns to closing the FS. if it is 1.5 turns then you have the right PJ. if it isn't then you can buy a better PJ.

regards

Taffy
Attached Thumbnails
FE650 2002 - Won't run properly-ignition-timing-diagram.jpg   FE650 2002 - Won't run properly-copy-40600010.jpg  

Last edited by Taffy; April 23rd, 2020 at 11:28 PM.
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April 24th, 2020, 12:13 PM   #14
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So I spent some time with the damn bike tonight. Re- assembled the carb for the 4th time, put another new spark plug in, turned on the fuel and cranked. Same thing as before. I got it started eventually and it's not running well. No idle, I have to keep it on 1/4 throttle (have no tach, probably around 1200rpm) while trying to dial in idle screw and mixture screw. They do nothing. I can't even get idle with the idle screw all the way in.

Here's my best explanation of how it behaves:
Cranking the starter with no throttle is not firing at all, a few burps and blows every now and then, but no real attempt to fire. If I turn the throttle 1/4th it will start to fire. You can hear it firing on each rotation and the cranking goes quicker. I found that choke works better when it's completely cold, but after a few minutes
of cranking attempts the exhaust starts to get warm, that's when I try without choke. Eventually, if you're lucky and the battery doesn't drain, it will start.

When it has started it's running very "rough", in lack of a better word. It feels almost like when a 2-stroke engine 4-strokes (think of a moped after a cold start and give it full throttle). I'm not familiar with husaberg and have only ever test ridden the bike down the street when I got it, but my general experience with thumpers is that it should be running smoother. I find the exhaust is getting very hot quickly too which may be normal? No idle regardless of carb adjustments.

Something is definitely off.. I'm about to ditch the SOAB in the lake soon!
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April 24th, 2020, 12:15 PM   #15
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Also, the carb has a 33 PJ.
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April 24th, 2020, 03:43 PM   #16
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Try starting the cold engine using "hot start". If it starts better you have proof that the problem is the mixture too rich.
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April 24th, 2020, 07:42 PM   #17
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Another very common issue, especially on the 650's is a broken exhaust valve spring. Check the stator first though as it only takes a few minutes with a multi meter.

A 33 is the correct pilot jet, for the U.S. anyway.
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April 24th, 2020, 07:49 PM   #18
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Pour a thimble full of fuel into the spark plug hole and crank it. If it runs somewhat good for a minute or so then you do probably have a carb issue, but I don't think its the carb.

Try removing the gas cap when starting it, the cap vent may not be letting in enough air.
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April 24th, 2020, 11:39 PM   #19
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at the beginning you said that the carb had been fitted with a jetting kit by the previous owner 7 years ago and I pointed out that that could only be a spruce up kit.

your problem is that you haven't seen 'better days' yet.

you need my easystart kit mate. if you are to start that bike, you need it. there is no fucking way that a 650 in Europe can run on a 33 unless the slide says "30" underneath....and it will not say that. it will say "40". but a 33 is completely wrong. 38 is the minimum with the carb as originally supplied. are you sure it doesn't say '38'?

I'm helping 3 people a day like this. non-mechanics and the one thing I start to tire of is when they don't spend any money on anything with anybody but still keep asking me questions.

as I say to my friends (not my customers though) "advice and quotes - the two most abused things on this planet".

regards

Taffy

Last edited by Taffy; April 24th, 2020 at 11:41 PM.
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April 27th, 2020, 08:49 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
at the beginning you said that the carb had been fitted with a jetting kit by the previous owner 7 years ago and I pointed out that that could only be a spruce up kit.

your problem is that you haven't seen 'better days' yet.

you need my easystart kit mate. if you are to start that bike, you need it. there is no fucking way that a 650 in Europe can run on a 33 unless the slide says "30" underneath....and it will not say that. it will say "40". but a 33 is completely wrong. 38 is the minimum with the carb as originally supplied. are you sure it doesn't say '38'?

I'm helping 3 people a day like this. non-mechanics and the one thing I start to tire of is when they don't spend any money on anything with anybody but still keep asking me questions.

as I say to my friends (not my customers though) "advice and quotes - the two most abused things on this planet".

regards

Taffy
I will double check what I wrote down in my workshop, it could be PJ38. I'll get back to you.

I talked to the previous owner and the bike is equipped with easy start kit, auto decomp and jet kit. All from you actually!
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