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July 12th, 2019, 02:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by NoClassic View Post
I always make sure to run the bike until the wrap is dry.

Silicone is not going to hold up to the external exhaust tube temperature. I initially attempted to wrap mine using a silicone walled and fiberglass lined 2" tubing heat barrier. Even with the fiberglass liner the silicone was crispy and smoking in no time.
Roger that. Glad I didn't waste my time. On the bright side, I guess I can steam some broccoli while on the trails.
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July 13th, 2019, 07:53 AM   #12
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Oh also you can remove the exhaust tube with the motor in. The rear shock needs to come out and the swing arm allowed to fall down a bit. You have to rotate the pipe around in some weird way but it will pass through the fame.
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July 13th, 2019, 10:30 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by NoClassic View Post
Oh also you can remove the exhaust tube with the motor in. The rear shock needs to come out and the swing arm allowed to fall down a bit. You have to rotate the pipe around in some weird way but it will pass through the fame.
Ah, thanks for the tip.
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July 13th, 2019, 02:36 PM   #14
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NoClassic If you Ever remove that pipe again please take some pictures because when I do it I have remove the tank also. Thanks
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July 14th, 2019, 12:50 PM   #15
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The additional directions I had given were assuming the tank was already off.
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July 22nd, 2019, 10:01 PM   #16
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Update

So I was insecure about my feeler gauge skills so I loosened the rear subframe tank, took off the main tank, rads, and checked the valves. The bike is new to me and I was dumb to not video the engine to compare when I initially adjusted them. There is some valve noise or some ticking, or at least I thought so. Anyway I pulled the valve cover and waited until it was cool out to measure again. The intakes are mid-high gap and in spec. The max in spec gauge would not push in for both, so I am satisfied there. At max gap the feeler would not go in one of the exhaust valves, and it was tight 0.01 below, then nice 0.02 below max. The other exhaust valve dragged medium hard at max spec and was good at 0.01 below max spec. I would have replaced that shim but I only had a kit with 0.05 increments. I tried turning the shim over but no luck. Anyway, I am done playing with it. I am confident now. I also played with the dirt tricks tensioner while the valve cover was off and I am comfortable with the installation. The piston when down one or two clicks. I cleaned out the spark plug bore real good and at 20nm the torque wrench hits firm resistance. Previously, tightening it seemed soft. There might have been some crud in there. The ticking seems better. Ha. The bike starts great hot or cold and I am a pro at taking the bike apart now.

I won't be messing around with the sub frame tank much. One rear fender side threaded insert spins, but doesn't appear to be a leak path. A small impact driver gets the screw out, for now. At some point I will have to dig out the insert and JB weld it. It appears to be a circular insert, which was a bad idea. The main subframe attachment points seem more beefy- time will tell. If a leak develops I guess sloshing around an interior coating might help.

Next up, I installed a Lexx silencer. It weighs about the same at the oem silencer but you can change the tips and it's a straight through silencer. I would say the quiet tip/arrestor that came with the Lexx is more quiet than the OEM silencer. Pretty close to call. I bought the other 34mm tip and the spark arrester to go with it. The 34mm tip and arrestor flow great and are not much louder at idle. The Lexx is a one size fits all silencer, so it takes some fiddling to get it setup where the rear wheel clears the silencer. There are two attachment bands that you can spin silencer in to get the right orientation. The Lexx comes with a small mid pipe. I tried to not use it, but best results came with it installed. Without the mid-pipe, the silencer is a bit loose on the rear pipe connection. The mid-pipe fits perfectly into the silencer and onto the pipe. The spring attachment points didn't make much sense, so I just used some hi-temp RTV. It all worked out and I am satisfied. There is an ultra quiet insert for sensitive areas. The tip points downward, which should help when I ride in the Sierras.

I set the TPS to 0.601 and was getting some pops so I installed the EJK tuner. Works awesome. The bike seems rad now. Can't wait to get the 390 on the trail with these mods.

Oh, and I put a cheap LED bulb in the headlight. It's better.

The radiator fan and waterless coolant work well. It was 95F and I was idling in place for a while without a problem. Not that it was a problem without them, but the bike will live at 7000ft. The fan, waterless coolant, tuner, and silencer seem to help, all combined. When the bike gets a bit warm I have been cracking the radiator cap to purge any water I left in the system during the waterless conversion. The first time a medium-low amount of pressure was released. It seemed less on later tries. Not sure if I am doing anything yet, but the waterless coolant is not supposed expand much, if at all. Thanks to all the others for posting their tips.

Until the next update..
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Last edited by robinasu; July 24th, 2019 at 09:52 AM.
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July 23rd, 2019, 04:41 AM   #17
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Super useful! Thanks!

Re. the subframe: Apparently it's a somewhat special plastic. Cross-linked polyethylene iirc? Someone on here described it as basically one giant molecule. So it's rather unusual to work with, and I'm not sure any standard fuel tank coatings would stick to it. There are methods to work with it however, which have appeared on here and will be found when searched for.
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July 23rd, 2019, 07:13 AM   #18
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the bike will live at 7000ft, it was 95F, and you're in Oakland? must not be the Oakland I was guessing.
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July 24th, 2019, 05:49 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by tourist View Post
Super useful! Thanks!

Re. the subframe: Apparently it's a somewhat special plastic. Cross-linked polyethylene iirc? Someone on here described it as basically one giant molecule. So it's rather unusual to work with, and I'm not sure any standard fuel tank coatings would stick to it. There are methods to work with it however, which have appeared on here and will be found when searched for.
Yep, difficult to get anything to stick to that plastic!
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July 24th, 2019, 09:39 AM   #20
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Plastic

Ah, I also just read the Husaberg promo about it. Its PEX, the same stuff used in plastic plumbing pipe. Im familiar with PEX in radiant heat applications and it is very durable.

Are we sure the 70 degree subframe is also PEX? It looks different.
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