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June 27th, 2019, 01:43 PM   #1
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I Ride: FE570,FS570,450/520XCF SM, SV1000, NC700
Looking at 2011 FS570 producing some steel shavings. What's likely wrong?

I've wanted an FS570 for a long time, ever since they came out.

I recently decided it's time to buy one, and asked a friend who has one what problems to look out for.

In reply, I got:
I've still got mine and was planning to take it to a shop the second week of July to have them get it road worthy for sale since I'm clearly not going to ride it. It's a FS570SM. Still needs to be run through from top to bottom, there were some oil shavings in the pan on the prior 2 oil changes (15ish hours of engine run time), rear tire is toast and brakes are totally soft after sitting. Want to buy it as is? I'll cut you a hell of a deal.
...
I'd like to get in the $2ks and big enough that it could need a trans and/or motor rebuild but might not.
...
Less than 5k miles, probably less than 4500, not sure on hours. Bike has FMF exhaust, trail tech computer, seat concepts seat, J&D jetting fuel programmer.
...
'11. They stuck to the drain magnet so I'm guessing steel. It's entirely possible it needs both a motor and trans or it could just be the clutch dying since the hydraulic clutch wasn't adjusted well when I first got it.
Obviously it's possible that it needs quite a bit of work, but it's also possible that it's nothing abnormal - I know KTM thumpers are also prone to producing some debris when it isn't anything significant.

What's likely to go wrong on these? I'm not afraid of splitting the cases, although it's been a while since I've done so.

If I decide it's time to pull it apart, and it's not worth repairing, I'd probably use it as a parts bike - I race a KTM so it shares a bunch of parts.

I also came across a very nicely sorted FE570, with the 70 degree tank, HDB handguards, Akra, XL Pro headlight, etc for $4500... but I'd need to pick up SM parts for it. I suppose that, if timing works out, I could swap the FS parts over to the FE (and swap back on the occasion I want to ride dirt - this will be mostly SM). I'm awfully tempted by it given the tank, I know they're impossible to find, but I don't really have space for 2 bikes (otherwise I'd likely just buy both right now) and converting it to SM isn't cheap.


I'd appreciate input on what, if anything, is likely to be wrong with the FS, and if it's a bad idea to pick it up.
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June 27th, 2019, 10:42 PM   #2
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If the engine is good nothing ends up on the magnet, just like any other bike engine. Husa engine is basically a ktm but with different cases.
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July 4th, 2019, 03:35 AM   #3
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lets say I crack it open and find what it is... is there anything likely to be bad that isn't available?
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July 5th, 2019, 07:58 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
lets say I crack it open and find what it is... is there anything likely to be bad that isn't available?
In general no, gaskets for engine covers is it, rest is standard KTM engine parts, I may forget something, but in general no.
Crank piston gearbox, all is ktm.
Cases are specific, the cylinder head is the same as ktm 450 530 head 2012-2014, just drill a hole for the return oil feed line and its identical, no magic there.

Last edited by TomTom; July 5th, 2019 at 08:18 AM.
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July 6th, 2019, 10:34 AM   #5
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I Ride: FE570,FS570,450/520XCF SM, SV1000, NC700
One of the things that's bad is the clutch master.

Is there a reasonable clutch hydraulic system upgrade for these, or do I just get OEM parts?
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July 6th, 2019, 02:18 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
One of the things that's bad is the clutch master.

Is there a reasonable clutch hydraulic system upgrade for these, or do I just get OEM parts?
There is rebuild kit available from KTM/Husky, but if you see any scoring in the bore of the master cylinder itís junk. Definitely worth disassembling to inspect before purchasing parts.

However, the slave generally fails before the master in my experience. But, if ANY air gets in the system, it can be a real pain to bleed, and there is no lever feel at all. Youíll swear the clutch system has failed. Remember, itís a very small bore and area in that master. Itís not like automotive where there is a much bigger volume of fluid being moved per stroke. Traditional bleeding from the start will yield no result on these systems.

There are a few tricks to bleeding the Magura and Brembo systems. Probably noted on this site, or if not we can help you.
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July 6th, 2019, 03:35 PM   #7
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I Ride: FE570,FS570,450/520XCF SM, SV1000, NC700
The bike is generally pretty clean (other than having been sitting for 1.5y), but there's some corrosion and apparent fluid leaking from the clutch master, which is why I was thinking it needs a master.



I know on later Huskies the thing to do to fix the clutch setup is replace the parts with KTM parts, didn't know if there was something similar with these.

Last edited by Junkie; July 6th, 2019 at 03:44 PM.
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July 6th, 2019, 04:03 PM   #8
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also, it isn't entirely failed - clutch won't fully disengage, but it'll disengage enough to start and idle (with some drag), rather than spinning the tire on the dirt I was on (with a bald 17)
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July 6th, 2019, 11:38 PM   #9
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I'm assuming you've done the simple stuff like adjust the lever for more actuation ?

My '12 will drag if I set the lever to where I like it.

If i set it further out, its fine (std or billet levers)

Wouldn't worry about the steel shavings.
in the late 90's we were initially horrified at the sump drainings on huskies and ktms, but soon learned it was normal with no detrimental effect seen, we just needed to change our expectations on what was normal (ie not a Jap trail bike)
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July 6th, 2019, 11:52 PM   #10
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Shavings are never normal. Mine clutch gears other bearing was loose and they had been clappin against each other. Clutch gears side has been wear off little bit and had made little steel shaving ended up to oil plug's magnet. Everything still worked fine. Only problem in transmission was caused by bad drum gear bearing. Shifts didn't go down.
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