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October 6th, 2005, 09:44 PM   #11
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There are already a few who swear by running the starter motor on 24V. There threads on this in the electrical section.
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October 7th, 2005, 03:38 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by BundyBear
There are already a few who swear by running the starter motor on 24V. There threads on this in the electrical section.
I did some searches of the 24V solution in this forum, but could not find anything about "burning starters" or any other toasted electrics. The 24V solution was given to me from a guy who supplied weak car starters with 24V in the 70´s. This worked really good. I´ll guess if I don´t e-crank the h*ll out of the bike, it will be fine. So far so good
Since the SEM needs speed to fire up and the autodecomp design is a laughter, this is a good solution. If my starter has to got to e-starter heaven I´ll replace it with a 04/05 and use 12V.
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October 7th, 2005, 07:52 AM   #13
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I've been reading this thread with great interest, in the last month or so my 550 starter will not engage long enough to start the bike when she is cold, when warmed up no problem.....my battery has been dead acouple times in its life thus far.....it used to start cold, I didn't realize that a battery goin south will cause the disengage symptom.....learn something new everyday....Thanks BM36
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October 8th, 2005, 06:03 AM   #14
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I have had large problems with my Ducati 888SP5 e-starter sprag. Due to high compression, rather high ignition at idling and poor battery, the crank tended to flip backwards. This made the sprag internals to "flip over", if you know what I mean. Disaster for the sprag clutch! I wouldn't be surpriced if 24V on a 12V e-starter could cause the same problem.

In Supermono, a lot of teams use starter rollers, with a car e-starter run on 24V. But I'm sure the over voltage will decrease life of the e-starter.

Sorry about not being spot on the topic. As I'm recovering my broken tendon, there not so much else to do.

/Dr_C
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October 9th, 2005, 03:17 PM   #15
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Most of the worry was whether the sprag was up to it, not whether the starter would fry.

Here are most of the the threads from before:
Thread 1, Thread 2, Thread 3, Thread 4, Thread 5, Thread 6

My sprag, while quite different to yours cause my bike is an older one with the balancer in front of the engine, has locked up once before. So I could use the bike I pulled out the intermediate starter gear & used the kicker. When I came back from the ride the sprag seemed to have freed itself so I put the gear back in & have used it for at least a year since.

Now that you mention it the sprag locked up when the battery was nearly flat & couldn't crank the enging properly.
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October 11th, 2005, 11:53 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dr_C
Due to high compression, rather high ignition at idling and poor battery, the crank tended to flip backwards. This made the sprag internals to "flip over", if you know what I mean. Disaster for the sprag clutch! I wouldn't be surpriced if 24V on a 12V e-starter could cause the same problem.
/Dr_C
I'll guess the 24V will be helpful if you are talking about backfire. If your starter runs strongly and the engine build up momentum the piston will most likely pass TDC without any "pre ignition"

Since I didn´t think over my problem I replaced a fully working sprag , and has therefore one as spare

But as I said, i don´t think I´ll get more backfires 24V and the Husa sprag looks rather strong to me. I´ll guess it might slip but not "flip over"
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