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March 5th, 2018, 12:08 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
you need to start with an extended pilot screw (EPS) and fit it under the carb. adjustment of this will probably cure the popping
Thanks Taffy and Ned.

I've played with the fuel screw in the carb a bit, using these notes I made for myself:


The approximate range of the fuel screw or fms (fuel metering screw) is 1 & 3/8 turns open to 2 & 1/8 turns open. If you are less than 1 & 3/8 turns open you need a smaller pilot, and if you are more than 2 & 1/8 turns out you need a bigger pilot.


1. Check current position of fuel screw (I was 1.5 turns out)
- Opening the fuel screw adds more fuel
- Closing the fuel screw adds more air
2. Screw should be between 1.4 and 2.25 turns out
3. If the screw needs less than 1.4 turns out, mixture is rich
- Need smaller pilot jet (and maybe other jets)
4. If the screw needs more than 2.25 turns out, mixture is lean
- Need larger pilot jet (and maybe other jets)

But basically all I did was open it up to 2.25 turns out to try and combat the lean mixture and hopefully stop the popping on decel, but it still pops. Am I on the right track?

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March 5th, 2018, 12:36 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by WArdogG View Post
No, check the scematic for the valves
On each of the rocker shafts is a cam follower bearing.
Hey, I've looked at the parts fiche but there's no mention of a bearing anywhere, is it part #55? That is listed as 'end cap' for the rocker shafts. Cheers

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March 5th, 2018, 12:49 PM   #13
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If you look at the rocker arm (box with 62 63 in it) one end has 2 tappets adjustment screws. The other end has a shaft with a bearing that runs on the cam. The bearing that runs on the cam is what people are suggesting you look closely at as they are prone to fail.

Books can be handy but sometimes you need to get your hands dirty to understand what is going on. Best to pop the top and have a look at those roller rockers (another name for that type of acctuation system).
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March 5th, 2018, 01:13 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bergbro View Post
If you look at the rocker arm (box with 62 63 in it) one end has 2 tappets adjustment screws. The other end has a shaft with a bearing that runs on the cam. The bearing that runs on the cam is what people are suggesting you look closely at as they are prone to fail.

Books can be handy but sometimes you need to get your hands dirty to understand what is going on. Best to pop the top and have a look at those roller rockers (another name for that type of acctuation system).
Thanks bergbro, yep that's for sure! Adjusting tappets is as far as I've gone before, taking off the rocker cover will be a first for me. Am I right in thinking I can check these cam follower bearings, as well as the cam bearings themselves, without breaking the cam chain and lifting the cam shaft out?
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March 5th, 2018, 06:10 PM   #15
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there are two bearing sets under the top cover. one set of two are the cam follower bearings on the rockers.
the other, often overlooked, are the bearings that support the cam and if starting to fail wil cause distortion in the seals that enclose the balls in the bearing, and then break loose and you will be looking for the pieces in the crankcase.
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March 5th, 2018, 09:25 PM   #16
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Yes, you can check all those bearings without separating the cam chain or taking the camshaft out. The cam bearings will be on either side of the cam, and the follower bearings come away with the rocker cover.

The bearings are on the scematic, but not numbered and named since you cant buy those loose from ktm.
There is a slightly different follower bearing, from older ktm 520, not 525, so 2000 to 2002-ish ktm RFS engines. From what I can understand is that others on the forum here have used them on the newer rockers.
They are #12 in the schamatic.

P# 59036061090

You can buy those bearings from Taffmeisters, he has both types of bearing, older and newer.
Attached Thumbnails
Valves or maybe carb-valves-2002.gif  
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March 6th, 2018, 12:54 AM   #17
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it is also VERY HARD to tell what you have because one is 7.6mm (newer) and the other is 7.8mm (older) but when measured in the workshop in Norway and the other one in Texas they are all the friggin same!!!!!

nightmare!

taffy
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March 6th, 2018, 01:30 AM   #18
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Thanks lads that's great. Are either of these sets of bearings a wear part that I should replace even if they look OK? Bike has 120 hours. I'm aware that if they roll OK and aren't visibly cracked or deformed, I might not see a problem that somebody more experienced would see and maybe best just to replace them.

Ahhhh the joys of knowing just enough to be dangerous, but not enough to be effective

Taffy I found item 100106 on your site, is that not the right bearing?

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March 6th, 2018, 04:12 AM   #19
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you must try and clonk it up and down vertically as it would sit on the bike. if you have the DVSK you can accept a little clonking. if you have the original conical valve springs then you are about 1 hour from them going to 'toast' on you and they must be changed.

the DVSK save them from this. they can be on the edge and they will give you good service for a long, long time.

when they come out: if they are worn then that is aan obvious failure but also if they look shiny silver top side and grey underneath then you as I say have an hour left. you can partially knock them out but it can get messy on the workshop bench that one! needles EVERYWHERE!!!

regards

Taffy
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