Husaberg
Go Back   Husaberg Forum > Mechanical and Technical > Mechanical

Mechanical Mechanical Forum - spinning bits and gyrating bobs


Thanks Tree60Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
April 24th, 2018, 07:17 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
tourist's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2012
From: Iceland

Posts: 2,258
Thanks: 719

I Ride: 1 Berg, 1 Zook
Ouch. Is it just a simple task of replacing the woodruff key, or are there further implications?
tourist is offline  
 
April 24th, 2018, 07:35 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
canolman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2013
From: canolbarth cymru

Posts: 340
Thanks: 198

I Ride:
A backfire caused mine to shear, took a long time to work out what was wrong! Just replaced the key and all was good, yours should be too.
Attached Thumbnails
Husaberg 660-img_20160826_090128.jpg   Husaberg 660-img_20160826_090108.jpg  
Thanks from tourist
canolman is offline  
April 24th, 2018, 08:44 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
thorgan's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
From: Sacramento California

Posts: 137
Thanks: 122

I Ride: "2000" FE600, 1996 FC660, 2015 Beta Xtrainer
Seeing as how the spark was weak and intermittent I decided to swap the stator. I was at the last step of reinstalling the flywheel (the stator on this old engine is mounted to the right side engine case and the flywheel goes on the outside unlike the setup in canolman's bike) and I just couldn't find the woodruff key to align the flywheel. That sucker sheared off so cleanly that I had to take an extra close look just to find it (had to put the extra powerful reading glasses on).

The good news is that I had my old 501 engine on the work bench in order to cannibalize the stator from it so I just grabbed the key from that engine. Quick and easy. Of course, it was at this point that I decided to use a 6-way Deutsch connector at the end of the stator wires to clean up that whole situation...and then I decided to run the wires for a regulator and headlight in case I want to do some night riding with this bike. So the snowball was rolling at 11 PM last night and I didn't get it all buttoned up. Hopefully that'll happen tonight and I can see if she runs so I can get back to the engine break-in.

Hopefully broken woodruff keys won't be a thing with this engine given the extra snappy nature of this rotating assembly.
Thanks from brucifer, tourist, Rainerio and 1 others
thorgan is offline  
May 1st, 2018, 03:57 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
thorgan's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
From: Sacramento California

Posts: 137
Thanks: 122

I Ride: "2000" FE600, 1996 FC660, 2015 Beta Xtrainer
I guess that I'm starting a collection of sheared flywheel keys...



Broke another today. Got only 1.5 laps on the Hangtown practice track.

I'm starting to wonder if the quick revs (especially when returning to idle like when going off a jump) are causing the flywheel to loosen the nut which loosens the taper fit to the crankshaft. Then all of the torque goes directly into the key.

I'll admit that my idle is too low to the point that the engine actually stalled in the air a couple of times. I'm still dialing in the carb settings and was intending to get in a couple of laps before going back to the truck to let it cool and make some adjustments. But I ended up having to bring the truck to the bike! I imagine that the inertia of the flywheel working against that big piston at 13.5:1 compression when there's just not enough rpm to keep it running can be a bit of an impact...or maybe I'm just grasping at straws.

If any of you long stroke, big bore, light rotating assembly guys are out there, have you experienced problems like this? Bushie? Anyone?

I'm running out of flywheel keys. I have one...maybe two left. I'd like to try it again with a higher idle and maybe retorque the nut a few times but I'm afraid of having to push it back to the truck...again.
thorgan is offline  
May 1st, 2018, 04:09 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2002
From: Snowy Mountains NSW Australia

Posts: 1,574
Thanks: 125

I Ride:
I used to have similar issues with the keys on my old 490. I sold the bike and acquired my FE501 which solved the problem, but not a solution for you I'm afraid.
steve is offline  
May 1st, 2018, 06:39 PM   #26
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2016
From: USA

Posts: 52
Thanks: 26

I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
My VOR went through a phase where the flywheel nut kept coming loose and the flywheel was coming off and destroying the flywheel key. The flywheel keys should be standard metric keyways available at any hardware store. Ace hardware had them, I believe they were $1.50 or less.

I solved my issues with the flywheel nut coming loose by lapping the flywheel to the crank with valve lapping compound. Sometimes the taper of the crank and the taper of the flywheel do not match exactly, resulting in less contact area. Use fine lapping compound and spin the flywheel on the crank in one direction, until the flywheel and crank have uniform surface areas. Blue loctite and torque the flywheel nut to spec, I’ve had no problems since. May be worth a try.
VOR165 is offline  
May 1st, 2018, 07:26 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
thorgan's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
From: Sacramento California

Posts: 137
Thanks: 122

I Ride: "2000" FE600, 1996 FC660, 2015 Beta Xtrainer
Thanks VOR! I will try just that. Was your VOR a wet stator or dry? When I got this engine back from Thumper Racing, I noticed a large hole that had been drilled into the crank case below the stator. I confirmed with Travis that this was intended to convert it to a wet stator for cooling purposes. He also left the right side crank seal out so the flywheel end of the crank has been getting bathed in oil during my initial break-in cycles. I'm sure this has aggravated the situation if the flywheel and crank tapers aren't a perfect match.
thorgan is offline  
May 2nd, 2018, 12:16 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
From: Ely, England

Posts: 15,380
Thanks: 394

I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
ditto what VOR says and also, are you sure that the crank was for the early flywheel? I know that there is a difference between pre and post 98/99 cranks or flywheels? I'll have to trya and sort that one out but they don't swop generations easily.

Taffy
Taffy is offline  
May 2nd, 2018, 02:28 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2016
From: Australia, Beechworth, Vic.

Posts: 367
Thanks: 183

I Ride: when I can which isn't often enough. FX450, FE570
Keep in mind the key is only a ‘locator’. It’s not for holding the flywheel. That’s the job of the taper. If it’s taking out the key with the correct torque applied there is something not right with the taper relationship.
Thanks from bushmechanic and canolman
Alan is offline  
May 2nd, 2018, 06:08 AM   #30
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2016
From: USA

Posts: 52
Thanks: 26

I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
If you donít have a crank seal installed (and even if you did really) you are going to have to be extremely careful not to get any valve lapping compound into your new motor...

Maybe install an old seal, before doing the procedure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks from thorgan
VOR165 is offline  
Reply

  Husaberg Forum > Mechanical and Technical > Mechanical

Tags
660, husaberg



Thread Tools
Display Modes



Facebook Twitter Google+ RSS Feed