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October 21st, 2017, 07:10 PM   #1
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Solution to damaged inner clutch hub

Righto, so finally have the bike together and running again after installing my Kibblewhite dual valve springs (Thanks for all the advice via PMs Bushy!) I thought I had this job done a couple of weeks back only to realise that the bloody kickstart mech had jammed! Sounds like this a common occurrence and an easy trap to fall into if you don't forget to keep pressure on the kickstart shaft when removing the clutch-side cover. Bit of a design flaw IMO. Surely Husaberg could have incorporated a circlip retainer or similar to avoid this?

Anyway, in removing my clutch I ran into another snag...I managed to snap one of the female threaded 'rods' inside the inner clutch hub. What a pain! I considered buying a new one but figured I could repair it so set to work doing so.

The solution

Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/0rqh0

I drilled out the broken rod and cleaned up the broken face as well as the face on the hub so the bits mate nice and cleanly. Basically just created a spacer dowel. I then drilled and tapped a thread into the clutch hub itself into which a slightly longer bolt fastens into now.

I'd say there's a little bit more pressure on this spring (as the rod height is a little less now) but not a huge deal more. It's a little bit of a hassle to install this one as you need to compress the spring for the bolt to take into the threads but it's not too hard.

Clutch feels fine to me, although I've not gone for a long ride yet - the damn water pump seal is leaking so I'm going to get hold of one locally that has a soft rubber outer and inner and have a crack at replacing the old leaking one in situ. If anyone has any tips for this, shout out please.

Quick question for the floor: does my solution raise any concerns? Will the fact that the clutch is now slightly unbalanced cause an issue you reckon? (because the bolt is longer and slightly heavier). What about the slightly increased pressure on the spring, any issues with this?
Thanks from canadius

Last edited by Eucl1d; October 25th, 2017 at 02:12 AM.
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October 23rd, 2017, 01:25 AM   #2
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no concerns whatsoever with that fella, none at all.

Taffy
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October 23rd, 2017, 03:08 PM   #3
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Unbelievable timing - same issue!

I just broke mine last night - looks just like yours.

I lost one of the 12 posts into the motor while it was on it's side as part of a clutch plate inspection. So I figured I'd take off the inner hub and rescue it that way, since even after draining oil and putting bike upright, the missing post wouldn't fall down into the sump.

Fabbed my own c-shaped tool that tied into 2x opposing female posts, but because the inner hub sits fully recessed within the motor, there must have been some more load on one post than the other. So it's snapped, just like yours.

Contemplated ordering a new one, but rooted around looking for tips and your post came up - thanks for the idea, and Taff for confirming that's not likely to be a big issue.

cm
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October 24th, 2017, 11:06 PM   #4
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So a bit of an update.

Got the nut off, and removed the inner hub. Recalling that the whole reason for this was that I had lost a couple of the 12 driver sleeves/posts into the motor when I was taking off the plates. Rescued all but one.

So now with the inner hub off, I thought the remaining post would be visible. No way. I picked around with both a set of picks and a very strong pencil magnet. But impossible to see or hear it.

So, assuming there actually was 12 there to begin with, i need to remove the basket also. With both the 2 half washers and the stepped washer off, and the inner hub, how does the outer/basket come off?

From the manual, it looks like it should slide out - but it seems stuck. Any thoughts?

Thanks. 2008 FE550
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October 24th, 2017, 11:42 PM   #5
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put a couple of flat bladed screw drivers through the basket and just tuck them in behind the drum, this should prize it off.

failing this, keep trying with the screw drivers but whack the gearbox shaft in with a plastic deadweight hammer or copperhead hammer and that should break the lip/bind.

regards

Taffy
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October 25th, 2017, 02:20 AM   #6
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Pleased to see my post and solution helps someone else! I came very close to ordering a new inner clutch hub but thought stuff it, why not have a crack at fixing it. I don't think the posts are very strong laterally!

Unfortunately I have a waterpump-side seal leak even though I replaced the damn seal! Have ordered a KTM 65 seal (part number 46035056100) as recommended by Bushmechanic which is apparently softer and of a higher quality rubber. Here's hoping I can remove the leaking seal in situ and replace without having to go through the whole hassle of removing the whole side cover.

Also, canadius, make sure you kickstart mech hasn't jammed before you put everything back together. It's an easy trap to fall into.
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October 25th, 2017, 05:23 AM   #7
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the clutch drum was upgraded twice in its lifetime, indeed, other than deals and the clutch drum, nothing was done to them between 05 and 08.

your right, the posts are delicate. never broken one myself but seen a couple.

As usual, I totally disagree with Bushmechanic, wrong choice, get another metal-backed w/p seal, the KTM65 seal will fall in the hole and never grip.

regards

Taffy
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October 25th, 2017, 05:40 AM   #8
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You should be able to remove the seal in situ using seal picks, just be careful and take your time, I've done it a few times.
For the record I've used the KTM seal and a 1mm wider seal on my engines, both have worked fine. The only ones that failed early have been the stock ones.
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October 25th, 2017, 09:45 AM   #9
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the steel ones eventually leak around the od unless you use sealant

if you are super internet scared the blue ktm one is going to move you could use sealant on its od too

the difference between them is in fact the sealing lip rubber which is far far better on the blue ktm one.
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October 25th, 2017, 11:45 AM   #10
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Thanks all,

Yes, Eu - saw your point regarding the kickstarter, will remember that when I go to reassemble.

Thanks Taff on the extraction point - will try tonight after work. I thought about levering as you suggest, but with all the gears in behind the basket, I was loathe to start crowbarring it out. I have a rubber-tipped deadblow hammer, so I'll get one of my kids to smack it while I pull. I'll get my youngest to smack it, to stay on the safe side ...

I'm suspecting that when the dowel fell in, since the bike was lying flat at the time, it went upward instead of downward like the rest. I've probed up in the top with a fine pencil magnet and nothing. Have shaken the bike, can't see or hear anything. Hoping taking the basket out will reveal it. Failing that, or if I still can't find it, I maybe disconnecting the water pump hose and kicker and removing the whole left side case. Eeek.

Will advise.

cm

Last edited by canadius; October 25th, 2017 at 11:50 AM.
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