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October 26th, 2017, 11:15 AM   #11
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Still struggling to get this off - will likely employ a puller to remove the basket, as I don't feel comfortable levering off with screwdrivers. Was leaving marks on the inside of the case where the screwdrivers were biting for leverage and still not moving - so not taking chances and ruining the basket and/or the case.

Speaking of the latter, I may remove it also, if required, for better access to search. I've removed shift and kick levers, as well as water pump cover, impeller clip, impeller, and that cross-pin the impeller shaft. the 11 case bolts are out, and the case doesn't budge. Is there more I need to remove, particularly around the water pump shaft?

Bike is on jack, vertically, with skid plate off.

thanks,

cm
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October 26th, 2017, 06:10 PM   #12
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Maybe a silly questions but you do have the whole clutch side cover off right, not just the clutch inspection plate that is fastened down with 4 bolts?
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October 27th, 2017, 01:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Eucl1d View Post
Maybe a silly questions but you do have the whole clutch side cover off right, not just the clutch inspection plate that is fastened down with 4 bolts?
No, not a silly question, since I initially thought the clutch basket could come out the inspection cavity, like the clutch assembly did.

Have now realized the whole side cover has to come off to get the basket off, and after discovering the role of the little protruding tabs, was able to take it off. And indeed, once off, the basket just slid right out.

The bizarre thing is now the cover, basket, etc. is all off - I can't find the last remaining dowel - the whole reason I went in in the first place. The oil drain and screen covers are out, have turned the drive shaft to cycle the piston, shifted the gears - nothing is jamming - it's like it it's either tucked away somewhere, or was missing all along. I searched the entire garage floor - but when they fell out of the basket, none fell on the floor, just three (or so I thought) fell into the clutch side cavity. Rescued two, but the one is still at large.

Very strange - at this point, I'm almost ready to assume that it's not in the motor, even though I don't know where it is.

On the bright side, no signs of wear - gears and inside is flawless - those frequent oil changes by the PO really paid off. Looks like brand new jewelry in there.

CM

Last edited by canadius; October 27th, 2017 at 04:27 PM.
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October 27th, 2017, 02:30 PM   #14
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Sounds like good evidence one dowel was missing. Whether or not you hear a massive crunch upon start up will confirm either way. Though I guess that's little comfort

On a side note, Bushmechanic's recommendation to use the KTM 65 seal (part number 46035056100) on the waterpump side looks to be working just fine - got the coolant up to 70 degrees and no sign of leaks. Was a simple job to remove the old seal and replace it with the new one in situ, though proper picks are required.
Thanks from canolman
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October 31st, 2017, 12:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Eucl1d View Post
Sounds like good evidence one dowel was missing. Whether or not you hear a massive crunch upon start up will confirm either way. Though I guess that's little comfort

On a side note, Bushmechanic's recommendation to use the KTM 65 seal (part number 46035056100) on the waterpump side looks to be working just fine - got the coolant up to 70 degrees and no sign of leaks. Was a simple job to remove the old seal and replace it with the new one in situ, though proper picks are required.
Hey Eu,

thanks - parts for the clutch side gasket, clutch sprague and (preventatively) water pump seal ordered up. Should be putting this all back together this weekend.

But I wanted to get ahead of the issue you brought up regarding the kickstarter. I didn't do anything per se with it as part of taking it apart other than simply removing the lever, but you mentioned making sure it not being jammed.

Can you please elaborate on what you did? What I should do now that it's off, or not do?

thx,

cm
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November 1st, 2017, 12:37 AM   #16
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When you remove the whole clutch-side cover this tends to pull on the kickstart spline ever so slightly which in turn jams the kickstart mech. To prevent this you need to keep pressure on the kickstart spline when removing the cover. This said, it's pretty easy to forget this. IMO this is a silly design flaw which could surely have been resolved with a retaining circlip or similar but I digress!

This video neatly explains how to 'reset' the kickstart mech.

Thanks from Rainerio and canadius
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November 2nd, 2017, 10:18 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Eucl1d View Post
When you remove the whole clutch-side cover this tends to pull on the kickstart spline ever so slightly which in turn jams the kickstart mech. To prevent this you need to keep pressure on the kickstart spline when removing the cover. This said, it's pretty easy to forget this. IMO this is a silly design flaw which could surely have been resolved with a retaining circlip or similar but I digress!

This video neatly explains how to 'reset' the kickstart mech.

Thanks Eu,

I only had about 5 min free last night to fiddle with it - and yes, mine was "out" for sure. Wasn't able to push the black shaft/cam assembly in to where the key is trapped in the black track.

I may get my wife or one of my kids to hold the kickstart lever back while I use both hands to push in the cam. I'm loathe to hammer it in like in the video, since the shaft splines are quite corroded, and thus the fit onto the kickstart lever is very tight.

I just don't want to be in a circular loop of pulling the whole assembly out again when I have to remove the lever. I've only got it on about 1/2 into the spline. Now that I'm thinking about it, maybe with the extra hands, I tap with hammer against a socket that's narrower than the ID of the kickstarter spline. Why do I get the ideas at work instead of at 2230 when everyone's already to bed? LOL.

If you have any other tips for pushing against the cam, that'd be great.


cm
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November 2nd, 2017, 11:14 PM   #18
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Update.

I think the kickstart cam/shaft unit is in. Was actually very easy. It all popped apart when I was spinning the cogs as per the video to check the mechanism was working correctly. It truly takes little outward movement and the key slides off the black lip. But now that I've figured it out, it took me less time than it did in the video.

Am I correct in observing that depth-wise, only slightly less than half of the key is atop the black ledge when fully fitted?

Thx.

CM
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November 4th, 2017, 06:45 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by canadius View Post
Update.

Am I correct in observing that depth-wise, only slightly less than half of the key is atop the black ledge when fully fitted?

Thx.

CM
Yeah I think that's right and the reason others on the site have suggested shimming it. I didn't though and it's working just fine for me.
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November 5th, 2017, 10:43 PM   #20
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Thanks. Going to exit this thread and pick up in my orig clutch thread to focus on the issues at hand.

But you've provided some great tips.

Thanks a ton!

CM
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