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September 1st, 2017, 08:53 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by berglsmerg View Post
I found that with 610+44mm TB that I had a big gap in the mid range and it dropped off up top, the TR cam filled it all in and restored the top end with a slight loss of bottom end response. I tried and failed to measure the cam specs with the motor in the frame but I can tell you there is more lift, duration and a narrower lsa. When I get around to rebuilding the motor I'll take the specs properly this time.

Jon I did the laptop in the bag thing + AFR, and got pretty close, the final tune on the dyno ( a week before it exploded) got me 2 hp from about 7000 onwards and smoothed the bottom to mid transition. Go the 610 Jon, you won't be sorry, just say fuck it and do it !
A
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September 2nd, 2017, 07:49 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by berglsmerg View Post
I found that with 610+44mm TB that I had a big gap in the mid range and it dropped off up top, the TR cam filled it all in and restored the top end with a slight loss of bottom end response. I tried and failed to measure the cam specs with the motor in the frame but I can tell you there is more lift, duration and a narrower lsa. When I get around to rebuilding the motor I'll take the specs properly this time.

Jon I did the laptop in the bag thing + AFR, and got pretty close, the final tune on the dyno ( a week before it exploded) got me 2 hp from about 7000 onwards and smoothed the bottom to mid transition. Go the 610 Jon, you won't be sorry, just say fuck it and do it !
Well.. The dollar is weak, and so am I
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September 19th, 2017, 05:58 AM   #13
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After going through some economical soul searching I had a look into one "forgotten" bank account and found the money I need, so I'm going 660cc

I did order a 102mm piston as my humble plan was to save the ruined cylinder and go 590cc. Fuck humble, that piston is on the shelf for future projects.

The thumperkit is ordered, just waiting for a reply from them. Work is already started; my garage is organized and cleaned, the engine split and some Husaberg stickers applied all over for the Swedish husa-God.
Big Bores for 70 degrees-20170917_220941.jpg

Last edited by jon andersson; September 19th, 2017 at 06:17 AM.
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September 19th, 2017, 12:30 PM   #14
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to that I say

HECK YES
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September 19th, 2017, 12:37 PM   #15
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I feel like a complete tosser, I just bought a trials bike
However I support these ideas fully! Lets push knowledge further.
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Last edited by TomTom; September 19th, 2017 at 12:39 PM.
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September 19th, 2017, 02:23 PM   #16
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I will use this thread for the build. Probably ask after peoples input now and then and share pictures. I have a few questions already for this build, one about a suter slipper clutch that has been on the shelf for quite some time and another about lambda sensor placement on my doma. I'll get back tomorrow regarding that as it's bedtime here now.
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September 19th, 2017, 04:34 PM   #17
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Well done Jon searching your accounts. Bout time we had a good build thread. Too long between drinks.
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September 21st, 2017, 03:41 PM   #18
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While waiting for a reply from thumperracing I had a look at the suter clutch that I bought with the bike but has been in the box. The former owner bought it used but couldnt get it to work as it was slipping while benching the bike (had closer to 70 hp on the back wheel he told me), so he removed it and ordered a 1500N spring.
I seriously doubt a bike like this need a 1500N spring as they are for R1s and similar strong bikes, but what do I know.. It can be that the clutch is worn out?

I had a look and the bottom plate are for sure worn from the inner friction plate. I checked it with a 0.2mm feeler gauge but luckilly it seems like it is less than 0.2. The pressure plate on top looks used but good. So it should be alright (I hope..). The holes for the ball bearings do look very used, what do you guys think about them?
Big Bores for 70 degrees-20170921_225152.jpg

I managed to find plates that barelly made the stack into spec; 35.75mm. It should be within 35.35mm -0.2/+0.4. They emphasize the importance of that in the manual.
Big Bores for 70 degrees-20170921_234243.jpg

This is the clutch in all its glory! All parts there and all look good. Now it is back in the box until the engine is done.
Big Bores for 70 degrees-20170922_000414.jpg


If anyone with experience can give me a tip what springs to use? I could see that the small 950N and the big 1235N had been used. But I have a few more to choose from:
Small for slipper effect
750N
850N
950N
1500N
Big for clutch pressure
1235N
1310N
1400N
1600N

I guess I have to play around with it later on when the bike is up running (whenever that is).
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September 22nd, 2017, 09:14 AM   #19
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Nice! If Im just thinking out loud here...The oem is close to good for the tune I have currently, I did put extra washers in the spring wells(eng?) of about 1,4mm thickness and it bites just fine. Now the tq in that engine will be some 17% more roughly, so it should be possible to make an educated guess from that no?
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September 22nd, 2017, 11:45 AM   #20
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Yep. But as the former owner had trouble with it slipping and ended up buying the strongest one I found it a bit strange. It is a quick change anyway so I guess I go strongest first and then change it step by step down until it starts to slip and then back one up. Talking about accelerating just to be clear.
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