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July 7th, 2017, 10:39 AM   #11
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If i'm not mistaken , the red coil/cdi is for early engines only . If yours has the stator on the cover you should be using a black coil/cdi . The timing is different and that can be your problem
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July 7th, 2017, 11:55 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by webmonstro View Post
If i'm not mistaken , the red coil/cdi is for early engines only . If yours has the stator on the cover you should be using a black coil/cdi . The timing is different and that can be your problem


Thanks for the reply, but how do i know whether my stator originally came on the engine or on the cover?


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July 8th, 2017, 04:06 AM   #13
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he's right, you should have a black coil/ignition module. so that just leaves which stator you have now?

the earlier stator on the back, you can see all the spools of copper wire on each coil-aabout 14 of them. on the later one that you should have it will be just black plastic on the back.

the reading for the earlier one is 1700 ohms red to black and on the later one it is 2,700 ohms.

regards

Taffy
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July 8th, 2017, 06:36 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
he's right, you should have a black coil/ignition module. so that just leaves which stator you have now?

the earlier stator on the back, you can see all the spools of copper wire on each coil-aabout 14 of them. on the later one that you should have it will be just black plastic on the back.

the reading for the earlier one is 1700 ohms red to black and on the later one it is 2,700 ohms.

regards

Taffy
Thanks for the reply, i don't remember if the spools were visible, but i do know that Red/Black resistance is 1700Ohm which means it's an older type stator. Now correct me if i'm wrong;

Older type stator > Black coil
New type stator > Red coil

If this is correct, anyone have a black coil for sale?
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July 8th, 2017, 06:53 AM   #15
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I can do that for you AND take the red coil in in exchange.

if you had 1,700 ohms it means if you flicked it over you would see faintly through the surface the copper wiring and the coils under the 'skin'.

so now you need a stator as well! again, we have electrex here and reconditioned SEM stators. whilst the red coil and statpr were meant to work together, they would hve been UNDER the flywheel and thus the magnets would be the 'other way around'.

the fact is, you MUST have the correct flywheel for the later set up. I have tried to fit an early flywheel on a later bike and the taper on the shaft or in the flywheel was wrong. so best to just swop out the red coil and stator for what you want.

regards

Taffy
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July 8th, 2017, 07:53 AM   #16
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So basically my stator should have 2700 ohms between red and black and it shold be in pair with a black CDI coil. It all makes sense now!
I was reading about HPI ignitions i think they have 2 stators and one coil for FC501
What are your thoughts and experiences about HPI?


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July 8th, 2017, 09:16 AM   #17
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I don't have any....

I don't go looking for problems when I can walk around them.

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July 8th, 2017, 01:25 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
I can do that for you AND take the red coil in in exchange.

if you had 1,700 ohms it means if you flicked it over you would see faintly through the surface the copper wiring and the coils under the 'skin'.

so now you need a stator as well! again, we have electrex here and reconditioned SEM stators. whilst the red coil and statpr were meant to work together, they would hve been UNDER the flywheel and thus the magnets would be the 'other way around'.

the fact is, you MUST have the correct flywheel for the later set up. I have tried to fit an early flywheel on a later bike and the taper on the shaft or in the flywheel was wrong. so best to just swop out the red coil and stator for what you want.

regards

Taffy




Old type stator



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July 15th, 2017, 08:06 AM   #19
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Husaberg 501/2000 won't start, kicks back

Greetings all,

I bought the Hpi ignition got it delivered. Could barely contain myself the rest of the day.
Installed it and set it as Taffy said in other threads, all the way to retard and a millimetre back. I checked the spark and it was good strong spark.
I was so sure the bike will fire with no need to tow it. One kick, two kick and bam! Of goes my kickstarter pedal. I was shocked and furious. Got the tow rope up the jeep and the bike started. Obviously the ignition is too advanced. It dies on idle but it runs on middle range ok'ish.
I did get to ride it abit and i was fascinated by the power even though it's far from good performance.

Am i missing something? Could it be a cdi problem?
Could it be some wrong flywheel? I'm lost..
Currently i have the red coil TM14-05 and my flywheel is 101.801.05

Thank you,
Povas


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July 15th, 2017, 03:47 PM   #20
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Husaberg 501/2000 won't start, kicks back

Update:
I removed the 3 bolts securing the cover, rotated the cover clock wise about 30ish degrees, and it runs like a charm, i even drove it and it made me grin like that boy on the back of the bus with his face pushed to the window

I forgot my multimeter, i wanted to measure the resistances on the new stator. It's suspicious as why is it so advanced on the regular position.


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