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April 10th, 2017, 12:25 AM   #11
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Joined: Nov 2011
From: Nordic countries

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I Ride: Two FE570 -12
I changed out the front sprocket to a 15T. Makes the first gear more useful and I dont have to change gears all the time. I do have a 52 on the wheel so still low gearing.
An upside with big sprockets is less wear on the chain, but my choice is mainly based on gnarly single tracks with occasional high speed sprints.
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April 23rd, 2017, 05:30 PM   #12
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I Ride: 2009 Husaberg FE 570
I have similar symptoms with my 2009 fe 570. Added mineral oil, bled the clutch, which seems to have fixed not being able to find neutral but the clutch still not fully disengaging the rear wheel in 1st. I assume clutch plates sticking? Should I buy just plates, or do I need a new basket? OEM or aftermarket? Has anyone rebuilt their clutch and if so how difficult is it?
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April 23rd, 2017, 11:46 PM   #13
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Unless you pushed the oil up from the slave you may want to try that, else you cant get all the air out. With oem clutch it completely disengages even at cold start, while my ktm always needs a firm step on the gear lever and brakes on when cold, not the same clutch on them.
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April 24th, 2017, 04:48 PM   #14
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Good call I guess I should be extra sure there is no air in the line before I drop $$$ on a new clutch. Thanks for the tip...now I just need to figure out the syringe trick. Do you hook is up to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder?
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April 24th, 2017, 11:43 PM   #15
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Yep! Very straight forward it is, just push until desired level in the reservoir and youre done. You may want a buddy checking the level or it will get a bit messy
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