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May 17th, 2017, 05:36 AM   #31
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Hi

I don't know how its going on right now with the electrex stator, but there were problems in the past with them, burning CDI's

So my advice is to try it with the ignitech that I presume it would be less sensitive ???

There is also a theory, that I've never tested, about the protection of the CDI against peaks of power. If you find the right diode it won't be a problem.
I'm sending you a doc of what I imagine it should be, but again never tested. I've not even seen one electrex in person

For the new curve I would just keep this numbers in mind, 6 base advance, 36 max advance, 9000 max rpm.

Good luck

ZAGA
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File Type: pdf VOLTAGE LIMITER_HPI_ELECTREX.pdf (74.3 KB, 22 views)
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May 17th, 2017, 12:56 PM   #32
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the Electrex are fine Zaga, seriously!

we have now sold 40 or so and had no trouble. we had a review yesterday over costs and prices and we have put up the SEM rebuild costs considerably as we have been losing 5 on each one when sold in the EU on ebay and that can't continue as you can imagine.

we were the first to put up a question mark on ebay and in the shop but now it is clear to me that they are OK.

just to put you right on sdomething you said the other night: you said that i had "retarded the Electrex fully to the max' (I ad lib here) just to get it right.

yes i used to!

but now I retard all the way and come back 1mm (at the circumference) and they are just about right everytime. what is difficult is the fact that your TARGET; the static white line-has gone!

so now you just have to "imagine" the middle of the hole...

regards

Taffy
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May 18th, 2017, 01:54 AM   #33
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Taffy

As I always said, I never used one electrex, so for me it's always ear say.

If you now say they a fine, it's fine by me.

Just 2 questions:

I didn't understood how do you set up the advance, do you make a timing mark on the stator, or you imagine one ? Maybe not so easy !

And in your opinion is the electrex better then the sparks rewind or is just cheaper ?

Thanks for the info

ZAGA
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May 18th, 2017, 12:34 PM   #34
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nothing in it Zaga. we have had more of sparks fail straight away under confusing circumstances but then be 100% fine afterwards or for all the others. Electrex are fine but the conduit takes up less space in the rubber bung and needs lots of silicon or water will definately get in.

yes, i imagine the middle with my strobe!

Taffy
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May 23rd, 2017, 08:55 AM   #35
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Hi ede

I've just made here one exercise with the ignition curve from the brochure.

I'm not saying that it accurate or even true, but if it were, it would be a much softer curve that you have

It was just to have some fun


ZAGA
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FE 501 2002 - Ignition Timing - Decomp - Starting Problems-advance.jpg  
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May 24th, 2017, 04:19 AM   #36
ede
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Hi Zaga,

here's the update: The bike is running again

Thanks goes to you and Taffy for helping me (and of course to everybody else who's posting helpful stuff). How did I solve it? After reading Taffy's post about the Electrex it decided for setup B)
Electrex stator + Husaberg rotor + Original CDI (Husaberg Part. No: 250293-01)

First I tried with your 45 setup from "SEM MKII Timing Mark Position.pdf" but it didn't work. Then I tried Taffy's method - rotated the Electrex fully to the right (max. retarded position) and afterwards about 1mm to the left again. Pressing 3 times the start button and the baby runs again!

So I was wondering why your 45-method doesn't work - in the first place it makes sense to me... but here's my thought:

When I saw your drawing - the 45 were measured from the center of the pick-up-coil. I guess the voltage in the coil is induced when the metal strip on the flywheel starts approaching the coils edge. Like on the picture below - there will be an offset - crosscheck it with the 6 before TDC method - the offset looks to me like the difference between the two ignition marks on the flywheel...

I guess when you fully retard the Electrex - it's about the same.... just a thought... I'm curious about it since I would like to figure it out in detail
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FE 501 2002 - Ignition Timing - Decomp - Starting Problems-offset.jpg  
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May 30th, 2017, 03:07 PM   #37
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Hi Zaga,
I read your Voltage Limiter document again.

Is there any practical/user-reports about the setup using a Z-Diode between the red and the black wire?

I'm not a specialist for things with electrics/electronics - but after a discussion with a friend, questions arised.
  1. What voltage signal the CDI expects? Alternating or directed?
  2. What's the maximum voltage the CDI can handle?
  3. What's the maximum current the CDI can handle?

My assumptions/questions:
Between the green and black wire the CDI expects alternating voltage. The proposed Z-Diode then will limit the voltage one way. Due to the Z-Diode current-voltage characteristics, the z-diode will open in the other direction way earlier (e.g. 0,7V) and therefore increases the current drastically. I'm concerned the high current could kill the CDI. Could that be?

What Do you think about Z-Diodes connected in opposite direction to limit both ways?
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FE 501 2002 - Ignition Timing - Decomp - Starting Problems-kennlinie_z-diode.svg.jpg  
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May 31st, 2017, 02:36 AM   #38
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Hi

First, let me tell you this is a theoretical set up, as I've told you, I never had one stator of this brand.

Second, Taffy has been saying that this problem has happened with the early ones and now he has sold a lot without any problems

Now let me try to answer your question, this was a thing for the red wire, not the green, no problems with that one.

The red will charge the coil and the green will give the signal for the spark timing.

The red should give around 300 VDC max to the coil, but it works with a lot less, it will depend on the rpm. If you put a 230V transformer it will work just fine.

The red already has one rectifier diode that will make a half wave rectify (only using the positive side of the wave) because the coil is like a battery, it can only store DC power.

That other diode (on the red) would work as safety valve, if the current was too high, it would drain it to the black (earth).

Anyway, taking in consideration Taffy's experience and that your bike is running without a problem, I wouldn't worry too much.

Hope I've made some sense, if not let me know.


ZAGA
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May 31st, 2017, 02:54 AM   #39
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Hi again

About the other post that you've made, the one with about the different position of the stator.

That is the green wire thing

As a magnet goes near a coil, it will induce a current, like the one on the picture. Depending on the orientation, it will start the wave as it approaches, to one side, and to the other side as it goes away.

Your CDI will "listen" to that, and will interpret it. There you can have some more variables, with more or less complex systems. Then it will give a "response" that will be the firing timing.

So if that coil on the electrex is a bit different, it will produce a slightly different wave, and maybe that is the reason why the position of the stator needs to be different ??


ZAGA
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FE 501 2002 - Ignition Timing - Decomp - Starting Problems-image002.jpg  
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