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April 19th, 2017, 11:07 PM   #11
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if you remove the primary gear first, you can discount any noises from the primary gear teeth, clutch basket etc. PLEASE do this first!

I hope you took on what i said about the rod running in the middle third/ anyway, you'll soon see i reckon!

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April 29th, 2017, 01:17 PM   #12
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I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
Well, my experiment with the KTM piston and shim was a success. Started first kick.

I installed a new reed valve. While the clutch basket was off, I found the noise was from the primary gear and clutch basket, and the slight play between the gears. Also the inside of the flywheel was cracked, contacting the stator. I had already bought a flywheel and stator off ebay anyway. I played around with the rod, and as much as I tried, I could not detect any up/down play with the big end bearing. I decided to call it good and run it.

So, it has Ktm piston, custom shim that cost $15, Ktm valves, cam bearings, rocker arm shafts, head gasket, and water pump seals. Mikuni intake manifold. The intake is about 1/2" shorter, so the factory boot does not reach the carb. I have a 45 degree reducer turbo charger hose elbow on the way, which I plan to trim to fit. Will update how that turns out.


Last edited by VOR165; April 29th, 2017 at 01:39 PM.
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April 29th, 2017, 01:54 PM   #13
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I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
And if anyone has a rear fender for this thing in good shape, let me know.
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April 30th, 2017, 03:18 AM   #14
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do you need a a new clutch basket bush?

taffy
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May 1st, 2017, 06:23 AM   #15
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I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
The clutch basket bushing seemed ok - I could not detect any play.

I am going to start tuning the motor next. I spent yesterday breaking in the motor.
About 80% of the time, it was starting 1st kick and ran great - however, I am getting an occasional bogging while giving it throttle at low rpm, and a backfire through the carb every once in a while. I double checked my valve clearances after break-in and they were good. I am going to set TDC with the deadstop method and reset the ignition timing, then sort through the carb next. I just used a straw in the spark plug hole to find approximate TDC, so the ignition timing is likely off. When I removed the old stator, it was fully retarded in the slots. After I set the ignition timing with the new stator, it ended up closer to the middle of the slots.

I am also getting some reversion of air/fuel mixture out the back of the carb. It actually backfired so hard one time, it spit the carb out of the intake manifold. This was partially my fault, as I had just reinstalled the carb after swapping out jets and did not tighten the clamp down as much as I should have. Nonetheless, it could also be the result of the advanced valve timing from using the shim.

Overall, I think it just needs some fine tuning. Ignition timing, jetting and valve timing seem to be common areas requiring fine tuning after researching this site.
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May 3rd, 2017, 09:42 AM   #16
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I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
If anyone in the US is needing cables or brake hoses for their Berg, I recently bought a new throttle cable from Venhill USA. They don't list anything for Bergs on their US website, but if you go to Venhill's UK website, Venhill.co.uk Motorcycle Braided Brake Hoses, Lines and Clutch Cables and look up the part number, they can special order it. I received my cable in less than a week, and only had to pay standard domestic shipping.
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May 4th, 2017, 02:01 AM   #17
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venhill cables

hello

julia here i work in sales at taffmeisters.co.uk
All there cables at venhill we have already had them made for us and MAJORITY of them are in stock here.
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May 4th, 2017, 03:15 PM   #18
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I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
While I wait on my piston stop and timing light to arrive, I decided to take a look at my 95 501, just to see where its ignition timing is set. I was amazed at just how far off the timing marks between the 2 motors.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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May 4th, 2017, 07:42 PM   #19
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I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
The turbo hose arrived today. It is a 45 degree reducer elbow, 3" on one end and 2.5" on the other. With a little measuring and trimming, it worked out really well. And I got it off Amazon for $7.99 shipped.

This setup is way easier to get the carb installed in the boots, compared to the stock manifold and elbow.







The frame horn actually measures 3.18" in diameter. I wasn't sure the 3" would stretch enough, but also was concerned if 3.25" would be too large. The 3" went on pretty easy after I lightly greased the frame. I had to stick a screwdriver into the filter hole to push the turbo hose out just enough to slide over the frame. Ended up working perfectly to make up the difference for the shorter mikuni intake. In the last picture I was still fitting everything up.

This hose is pretty thick, and made for high pressure, high temp turbo applications, so it should hold up. I think a softer, thinner, more flexible material like a silicone hose, would be even better, just to have the extra flexibility for mounting/dismounting the carb.
Thanks from Taffy and zaga

Last edited by VOR165; May 4th, 2017 at 08:04 PM.
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August 3rd, 2017, 04:18 PM   #20
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I Ride: 99 FC600, 95 FC501, 94 FE501
Well, I have been making progress. I wish I would have taken more "before" photos, but the condition of the front fender is how the rest of the plastic looked. The bad fender is actually off the 95 FC501, but this FE was identical. I restored the fuel tank, front fender and side panels by wet sanding and waxing. The rear fender is a universal UFO.

Head pipes restored and painted with hi-temp paint. New fork seals, chain guide rollers, and tires.













I have been trying to work out carb issues. Has a Dellorto VHSB 38 flat slide. It starts 2-3 kick cold, and 1 kick warm. Idles perfectly. Up to half throttle, it has instant throttle response - runs perfect half throttle and below. But I am getting a major lean bog, when quickly ripping the throttle full open, from a low rpm.

I have tried every clip position on the needle and 185, 190, 195, and 200 main jets.

What RPM should the idle be set?

The owners manual mentions 1400-1600, while setting the mixture screw. That sounds really high. I do not have a tach, but I normally set the idle on my bikes as low as possible, and the motor be able to keep running.
Thanks from tourist, Rainerio and webmonstro

Last edited by VOR165; August 3rd, 2017 at 04:30 PM.
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