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January 11th, 2017, 09:10 AM   #1
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Engine service questions 1994 FE600

With no history on the bike except that it's a bit hard to start and with an upcoming tear down/status check I have the following questions:

1. I have read here that the cam follower bearings often go bad and should be replaced periodically. Is it enough to inspect them or should they be replaced anyway?

2. Is this older config with dual valve springs as "bad" as the later config with single harder tapered springs? Would taffmeisters dual spring kit improve bearing life? And do they fit without machining?

3. Is it enough to inspect the cam chain (that tensioner is not all the way in)?

4. Is it possible to tell the state of the con rod bearing without splitting the engine?

5. Should the piston be replaced or is it enough to inspect? Anything particulary to look for apart from the obvious (scratches etc.)?

6. Anything else that I should take a look at (transmission, clutch...)?

Carb, ignition, wiring valve clearance etc. will of course be cleaned/tuned as far as possible.

Thanks in advance.

Khristi
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January 11th, 2017, 01:27 PM   #2
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1. I have read here that the cam follower bearings often go bad and should be replaced periodically. Is it enough to inspect them or should they be replaced anyway?
A: wait for them to go. your old DVSK are soft like my DVSK are.


2. Is this older config with dual valve springs as "bad" as the later config with single harder tapered springs? Would taffmeisters dual spring kit improve bearing life? And do they fit without machining?
A: as said above - yours are fine but they are also very old.

3. Is it enough to inspect the cam chain (that tensioner is not all the way in)?
A: yes if you have clicks left then it is OK.

4. Is it possible to tell the state of the con rod bearing without splitting the engine?
A: yes, you can. hold the con rod at the little end and slap the crankshaft up underneath upwards slapping both flywheels with the palm of your hand. you can feel 'knocking' but also, press the rod to one side and then try and wobble the rod. 2mm+ = gone. always change the little end.

5. Should the piston be replaced or is it enough to inspect? Anything particulary to look for apart from the obvious (scratches etc.)?
A: usually yes, they are rarely "nice". also check the nikasil lining.

6. Anything else that I should take a look at (transmission, clutch...)?
A: everything, everything is phuqed on the old ones. spend, spend and keep spending.

Carb, ignition, wiring valve clearance etc. will of course be cleaned/tuned as far as possible.

Thanks in advance.

Khristi

I have loads of videos on my Facebook page that will help you. lots on the 1998 FE600e I have here.

regards

Taffy
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January 11th, 2017, 02:08 PM   #3
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Thank you, Taffy. I hope to have the bike home soon so I can tear it apart. The wössner piston kit you sell, 95 mm (100330), is available in a, b and c. I guess a is original bore and b and c are OD bores. Am I correct?
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January 11th, 2017, 02:21 PM   #4
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yes, just wear rather than overbore
a is new
b is wherever
c is worn

B has a personality disorder and can't tell what it really is. just get an a or a c.

Taffy
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April 6th, 2017, 04:21 AM   #5
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Finally got the bike home last week. After cleaning the carb, setting the valve clearance and auto decomp I began some assembly of carb, radiator etc. just to start it up and see how it runs.

I found it a bit strange that it wasn't that hard to kick around. My borther has one just like this and it's impossible to kickstart if the auto decomp isn't set correctly. I got a few exhaust booms but it wouldn't fire up. Checked spark and it was good. When I had the spark plug out I put my finger in the hole while cranking the motor on the main shaft. Felt almost no compression at all so I figured I had messed up the decomp somehow. To check this, off with the radiator again... Double checked valve clearance and decomp but it was correct. What to do then? Off with the head!

Last edited by Khristi; April 6th, 2017 at 04:35 AM.
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April 6th, 2017, 04:30 AM   #6
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I thought there might be something wrong with the valves not seating correctly and I was right. One exhaust valve broken.

Bad news:
1. Valve has to be replaced of course. Do I change both exhaust valves or just the broken one?
2. There's also some signs of detonation or other bad conditions on the flat parts of the combustion chamber. I take it the same bad conditions that killed the valve caused this pitting?

Good news:
1. Valve seat seems fine.
2. Cylinder walls are absolutely spotless and no turn egdes (you can see the difference in the bottom part where the honing is more visible but you can't feel it).
3. Piston and rings look good apart for some very minor pits on the top of the piston (the same as on the cylinder head combustion chamber)
Attached Thumbnails
Engine service questions 1994 FE600-img_0444.jpg  

Last edited by Khristi; April 6th, 2017 at 04:35 AM.
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April 6th, 2017, 04:32 AM   #7
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i'm not really sure here.... the backfire could be poor spark. but more likely that you have not found TDC and on the correct stroke so as to do the job right.

Taffy
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April 6th, 2017, 05:50 AM   #8
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Taffy, I guess your reply was in between my two posts?
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April 16th, 2017, 02:11 PM   #9
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Just received a bunch of stuff from Taffmeister. A few questions:

1. When fitting the new exhaust valves, do I need to use lapping paste to make them seat/seal? The valve seats show no signs of pitting/scouring.

2. Do you think it's OK to put the cyl head on the round feed table and use an end mill to machine the flat parts of the combustion chamber to remove the dents? I think somewhere from 0.5 to 1 mm will do it. This will of course lower the compression some and slightly change the squish geometry but not mess up the valve timing.

3. When fitting the new timing chain, should I use silicone on the chain link? I remember reading it somewhere and my old chain shows signs of this.

Last edited by Khristi; April 16th, 2017 at 03:41 PM.
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April 17th, 2017, 02:36 AM   #10
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I always lap new valves in. BTW, husabergs suffer more with tuliped seats-curved seats if you like.....

I have never put silicon on the split link but nothing is stopping you.

the inlet seats will be very close to where you are milling, all i do is go over the head with a rotary mop sander and take the high points off. i never worry about low points - just high points! I wouldn't mill it.

Taffy
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