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December 31st, 2016, 07:43 AM   #11
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usually, if the crank and gear taper are not compromised, it is the taper that primarily holds it, and the key is a locator.
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December 31st, 2016, 07:51 AM   #12
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but there's no taper on the 2001-2008 cranks Ned....

Taffy
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December 31st, 2016, 07:57 AM   #13
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No, there's no taper. But if I use loctite when I assemble it, I hope that's gonna help take the load off the key. Gonna do some calculations to see how much torque the loctite will hold according to it's specs, but that will be later, now I'm gonna get drunk Happy new year

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Steinar
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December 31st, 2016, 08:55 AM   #14
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my bad. maybe there should have been.
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December 31st, 2016, 09:08 AM   #15
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oh YES!!!!
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January 2nd, 2017, 10:11 AM   #16
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Hi again

According to my calculations, the Loctite 638 will hold about 135 Nm torque in these conditions. I don't know the numbers the engine put out, but it should be much lower than that.

Taffy; I've ordered a big end pin and bearing from you now, they said the rod looked good and it wasn't any noticeable play in the little end, so it should be enough to replace the big end.
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January 3rd, 2017, 12:50 AM   #17
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in don't think you can just leave it like that? the woodruff key can fall over creating a tremendous torque and it will try and open the gear and break it right at its weakest point. the gear isd weak where the woodruff key slot is and more specifically: in the corners.

if nothing else, some way of supporting the key must be found. added to that, if the key can fall over even slightly: it will retard your cam timing significantly and you can't afford that.

I'm not saying, start at the beginning, I'm saying that you have to do 'something' in the slot for the woodruff key to support the back of it.

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January 3rd, 2017, 07:04 AM   #18
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I don't think it will be a problem, it's not as bad as it looks. Maybe I'll fill it with jb weld where the little piece is missing, I'm afraid of welding there, since that will take the hardening around the weld.
Also, with loctite, the key shouldn't be taking any of the load. And it's beens like this all the time I've had it, and it haven't broken yet.

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Steinar
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January 3rd, 2017, 05:26 PM   #19
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I can't believe what I just read. you have w-w-w-w-a-a-a-a-y-y-y-y more faith in glues, resins and that 'shit' than I do.

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January 4th, 2017, 04:19 AM   #20
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Well, I believe that the Loctite will hold as much as my calculations show. I used the formulas from their web pages and was very conservative when determining the correction factors used in the calculations.
Regarding the JB Weld, that's not meant to glue the crank together or something, that's just to fill where it's missing a very little piece from the key slot. Honestly, I believe it's unnecessary to do that, since the key will have no place to go when the nut is in it's place.

I have used the bike as it was for almost a year, and then all the load was on the key. Now, with Loctite, the stress distribution will be uniformly spread around the surface, not a very high stress just where the key is...
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