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October 25th, 2016, 02:18 AM   #21
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Something I found to make it easy.

Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.
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October 25th, 2016, 05:24 AM   #22
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Oils and oil additives

Originally Posted by Md4stone View Post

There is nothing mystical about engine oil.

But by all means buy the $20/liter 4T oil. Peace of mind is more important than $ or lubrication, right?




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FE350 buy whatever you like. You sound more like you are trying to convince yourself than you are trying to convince me

Racing teams get their oil for free from sponsors so take what you will from that fact

Here's what Wikipedia has to say about Rotella T6 being used in non-diesel capacity:



There are millions of happy money savers out there proving that hype is not necessarily accurate. Actually, if you are going to change your oil every 300-500 miles, you can use any oil as long as it is JASO MA rated.

Or not. To each his own, whatever floats your boat



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Last edited by Md4stone; October 25th, 2016 at 06:11 AM.
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October 25th, 2016, 11:26 AM   #23
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Yes so true, but do you actually want your engine oil to work the way it was designed or do you want to take a chance? My thoughts are based on specific facts and not based on the guessing by a bunch of people to save a dollar. I don't need to convince myself as I already know the answer. I just like everyone to know facts when choosing a oil to save money as this is a forum for advise and help. Allot of motorcycle people use Rotella and it seems to work for them, but I have not heard one study done about the after affects of this. Any oil will work and even oil that are not Jaso certified but this does not mean it want cause future damage. Studies have been done on Motorcycle oil to ensure they stand up and don't do the damage, can anyone say these studies have been done for diesel oil in motorcycles? If this was the case than Rotella would become a diesel and motorcycle oil to up Shells oil sales.
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October 25th, 2016, 12:37 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by tourist View Post
I do remember some threads

People on here who I trust really like Delo 400!

The Motorex Cross-Power stuff recommended by KTM in recent years is supposed to be quite good.

Availability isn't great over here so I go for Motul 300V and 7100 synthetic.

Then there's an engineer type guy that has a giant blog where he does oil tests. I can't dig it up right now. It's on Blogspot I think - anyone remember this?

If you search for these terms you may find some older threads. There was some good discussion on Delo just recently.

The important thing is to just change the oil often. That gets the trapped combustion byproducts out, and gets you an inside look at things ...

Tourist, did you know that Delo 400 is diesel oil? I don't think some people are going to be ok with you using that so maybe you better stop before you become a statistic




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October 25th, 2016, 02:14 PM   #25
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OK, I'm an old timer that uses diesel oil with an additive.

When I acquired my first Berg, a '98 FE501 way back in 1998 I wanted to look after it. Unusual perhaps. I used to get a good wholesale deal on Mobil lubricants and I used exclusively Mobil 1 R4T in the Berg from new.

A service item on the older Bergs is valve follower bearings @150 hrs. I let mine got a bit longer and paid the price of not only new bearings but a new camshaft.

Former inmate here, Dale Lineaweaver, with a background not only race tuning Berg's to championship wins, but with Chevon developing oil, recommeded Delo 400.

As many diesel engines include gear drives for things like compressors and cam shafts, the oil has to handle shear just like a mc gearbox too. Dale reckoned the Delo is ideal for any engine that's predominantly ball/roller bearing based.

I decided to go with it. That engine is still going fine with over 800 hrs on it, and the same follower bearings I put in it at 180 hrs. Original bottom end, even clutch plates.

This is as close to a scientific experiment as I can come up with for oil.

On Bushies suggestion, it gets a shot of Lucas Oil Stabiliser too.

The Delo goes in my tractor, my XT1200Z, DR650SEs, FE650, KLX300, XT250, generator, pump, etc. without issue.
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Last edited by steve; October 25th, 2016 at 02:17 PM.
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October 25th, 2016, 07:08 PM   #26
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Whaaaaaaaatttttt??????

Originally Posted by steve View Post
OK, I'm an old timer that uses diesel oil with an additive.

When I acquired my first Berg, a '98 FE501 way back in 1998 I wanted to look after it. Unusual perhaps. I used to get a good wholesale deal on Mobil lubricants and I used exclusively Mobil 1 R4T in the Berg from new.

A service item on the older Bergs is valve follower bearings @150 hrs. I let mine got a bit longer and paid the price of not only new bearings but a new camshaft.

Former inmate here, Dale Lineaweaver, with a background not only race tuning Berg's to championship wins, but with Chevon developing oil, recommeded Delo 400.

As many diesel engines include gear drives for things like compressors and cam shafts, the oil has to handle shear just like a mc gearbox too. Dale reckoned the Delo is ideal for any engine that's predominantly ball/roller bearing based.

I decided to go with it. That engine is still going fine with over 800 hrs on it, and the same follower bearings I put in it at 180 hrs. Original bottom end, even clutch plates.

This is as close to a scientific experiment as I can come up with for oil.

On Bushies suggestion, it gets a shot of Lucas Oil Stabiliser too.

The Delo goes in my tractor, my XT1200Z, DR650SEs, FE650, KLX300, XT250, generator, pump, etc. without issue.
Wow Steve! Now this is the story that needs to be told! I would love to know of more similar testimonies. Is that Dello 400 synthetic? I am car mechan8c that turned truck mechanic for 15 years and I was doing limited research into oils for the purpose of opening my own lube shop. I know that in the last 15-20 years oil became something of a scientific product. There is lots of tech in todays oils. I am tottally neutral about what goes in my Husaberg as l9ng as it has been field proven to work very good. Low price is bonus of course. Nodern diesels have extremely high pressures on cam lobes and timing gear train. I have no doubt that synthetic rotella and dello are just state of the art quality oils. There are others as well. Very interesting would be to hear from independent source how are oils tested for MA. Also what are KTM people saying aboit rotella/dello in private conversation. In my freshly rebuilt 550 I will use "proper" oil for the second change and after that it will be rotella t6 and dello. If dello sunthetic is a go.
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October 25th, 2016, 07:23 PM   #27
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There are a few Delos, DELO, aka Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil.

Delo 400 Multigrade is the one we want, its a semi synthetic; https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/...&docFormat=PDF

Last 20 l drum I got here was $Oz110, but it can be got for less than $100 on a good day.
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October 25th, 2016, 07:25 PM   #28
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PS, no JASO MA doesn't mean it fails, just means they didn't get it tested.
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October 25th, 2016, 07:30 PM   #29
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An oil anecodote for you. Some years ago the German Yamaha world supersport team racing R6s was major sponsored by a major oil company. After numerous gearbox and clutch related failures they switched to another brand oil and transmission problems went away. I won't mention brand names, but I got the story from a mate who worked with the Yamaha Oz RR team at the time. Oils aint oils as they used to say.
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October 25th, 2016, 08:06 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by steve View Post
PS, no JASO MA doesn't mean it fails, just means they didn't get it tested.


The no JASO MA is a deal breaker for me. One of my bikes is still on warranty so I have to toe the line for that one. And I like the full synthetic aspect for maximum anti-shear, so I don't mind paying $9 a gallon more for the Rotella T6. Otherwise that $13/gallon Delo 400 is awfully enticing.

There is a big difference between being cheap and being smart. The smart person does his research, and then makes the wise purchase based on getting the best product AND the best value. In some instances price follows quality. But that's not the case with engine oil. You don't have to pay a lot to get top self lubrication. You just need to know what you are buying. There are literally millions of motorcycle and high performance car owners and mechanics out there singing the praises of using diesel oil in their expensive high performance gasoline engines. So are they all wrong?

I am neither cheap nor stupid. And I wouldn't place my engines at risk to save a few bucks buying cheap oil. I think most of us are the same when it comes to our motorcycles: price is not an issue.


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