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April 12th, 2016, 03:03 PM   #21
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Thanks mate. I'll check and adjust the valve clearances tomorrow after work and see how it is then.
Ran and ticked over fine after starting earlier - only ran it for about a minute though, as still no water/coolant in there at the moment. Will change the oil once more before trying it with water in the system
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April 17th, 2016, 05:19 AM   #22
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Oh dear......

Well, my broadband has been off since wednesday afternoon when some halfwit dug up a cable near my home, so I've been unable to share my latest development with you all.....
I adjusted the valve clearances as per Husabutts great post - they were a bit tight. Started 5th kick after that and seemd run/tick over fine - apart from the fact that it was smoking fairly heavily (white smoke). Heard a sharp "tink" kind of sound from engine area - while I was looking at the smoke emerging from the exhaust. Looked down - it was still running ok at this point - saw smoke here too, so immediately hit the kill switch.
Discovered this.......WTF have I done???


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April 17th, 2016, 05:25 AM   #23
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Oh man Let's hope this is something that can be welded up quick and fixed. Please keep the posts coming for the public benefit
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April 17th, 2016, 05:34 AM   #24
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Will do - can't help but think this may develop into a full rebuild thread....
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April 17th, 2016, 08:04 AM   #25
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you didn't tighten the adjusting nut properly (or at all).
you've got to find the nut and any flotsam from the impact in the engine and clean it out. hopefully, it stopped immediately after it happened and the crap won't have gone far.
the top can be welded.
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April 17th, 2016, 08:07 AM   #26
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Valve clearance adjusting nut? Definitely torqued them all to 11Nm and double checked them all. I've left it completely alone since this happened as I wanted to hear all opinions/advice before going back in!
Cheers.
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April 17th, 2016, 04:32 PM   #27
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well, the nut is the most common (right, froggy?, wherever you are). second most common is the autodecomp stop bolt in the cam gear. whatever it is , you have to pull the cam and clutch covers.
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April 17th, 2016, 05:09 PM   #28
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Sorry to see the outcome with this Bludgeoner.
For what it's worth. I removed the clutch on my 650 to fix that same kick start issue before.
And with the lack of my understanding put it back together bumping 3 teeth off of
the timing marks.
It started, but ran rough and I shut it down quick enough knowing I messed up.
I got that timing mark schematic, removed the clutch and lined it back up.
Everything is fine.
Hope you can get the pieces out of there and it welded up.

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April 17th, 2016, 11:40 PM   #29
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yep the locking nut AND the reason it came off is because 12Nm isn't enough BECAUSE the people before you overstretched the threads AND because the threads are way too loose so 12Nm isn't going to be enough.

as Ned says, that is what it is AND it can be welded. we do them all the time for customers. In the old engines there is a "competition" (sic) to see who can wipe out the most letters in G-R-E-B-A-S-U-H.

leave the "races to the aces" fella.

regards

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April 18th, 2016, 06:32 AM   #30
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I had overtightened my tappet nut several times on my 05 650 from new. Until I learned the proper torque. I then started torqueing 11+ nm. Good thing I didn't loose it. But an interesting note. While torqueing the tappet screw wanted to turn with the nut. Whereas on my other 2 650s that I have always torqued properly the screw remains stable while torqueing.
Maybe it's a sign to help someone not to lose the nut.
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