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April 10th, 2016, 10:50 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by bushmechanic View Post
So you have m5 x0.9 ?

If you go to m6 x 1 you will be fine

The same Tourque values on these result in very similar forces
Yep, they were definitely M5 (not sure of the pitch but likely 0.9). Definitely now drilled out and tapped to M6x1, Loctited and torqued to 8Nm.
Just hope i put it back together in the right order!
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April 10th, 2016, 03:26 PM   #12
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Excellent !

Very sexy forks 👍👍👍
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April 10th, 2016, 11:13 PM   #13
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I can't believe that they haven't used M6 x 1mm all along? yep go for that then.

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April 11th, 2016, 03:59 AM   #14
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Thanks. Any ideas on the non starting issue? Is it possible that I've thrown something (timing?) out of whack while the clutch hub was off?
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April 11th, 2016, 04:33 AM   #15
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I would ..... Remove the pulse coil (on my 650 crank locking bolt is underneath)

Lock crank at Tdc

take clutch cover and rocker cover off check marks

Other bikes the locking bolt is out front

Last edited by bushmechanic; April 11th, 2016 at 04:36 AM.
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April 11th, 2016, 05:55 AM   #16
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Bugger! REALLY didn't want to hear that the clutch cover has to come off again! Oh well - my own fault I guess. Presumably my mistake was not locking the engine at TDC before removing the clutch hub? Better get on and order the locking bolt - unless another type of bolt can be used for this? Thanks for the advice so far....
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April 11th, 2016, 07:56 AM   #17
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Use for ex. a 50mm long M8x1.25 bolt and make the tip sharp with a file.
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April 11th, 2016, 08:59 AM   #18
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Shouldn't there be a bolt in there that you just take out, remove the washer/spacer, put back in at TDC and it locates? Maybe that's on some KTM's - sure I've seen it somewhere. I'll check later. Otherwise I'll do as above - I take it it's just a pointy M8 - can whip that up with a grinder in a few minutes.
Cheers.
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April 12th, 2016, 12:19 PM   #19
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Ok, now I'm getting somewhere. Made the lock bolt earlier as per makazica's post, checked as per bushmechanic's post and the marks were out.
Before -



After adjusting, everything lines up and I was able to start it (still a bit of a struggle though). Now, after reading through Husabutt's post about valve clearance adjustment in another thread - I'm slightly concerned that maybe I was at overlap TDC and not TDC of the compression stroke. Would that have made a difference and if so, would I have been able to start it now if I'd adjusted eveything at overlap TDC? Or should I just go ahead and set the valve clearances now....
Thanks again for the advice so far.

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April 12th, 2016, 02:20 PM   #20
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I don't think you would have been able to start it if you set on overlap

Actually I don't think there is enough adjustment to achieve it

But with the marks out maybe you bent the valves it's not definitive since you were close with the marks but

If it continues to be hard to start or gets worse that's likely what has happened

Last edited by bushmechanic; April 12th, 2016 at 02:27 PM.
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