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January 27th, 2016, 11:28 PM   #31
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Mine is a supermoto and runs over 9000 rpm freguently and on bigger tracks speeds around 180...
I am amazed how hard these bikes are on drivetrain.
On my 1000 cc sportbike I also use 520 chain and that bike makes almost 3x power and the chain lasts longer....
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January 28th, 2016, 12:33 AM   #32
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Have you tried filling the shaft to see if it is hard or not?,
If it is soft any sprocket would probably ruin it.
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March 22nd, 2016, 02:26 AM   #33
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I Ride: Buell XB12XP #91of137(PoliceDuty), BMW g650x (SOLD), 97 600gsxr Ebike, 2012 Husaberg fe570 ADV Bike
some considerations after replacing my spline

so my case is still split after 8000kms only, but now having the full gasket set and countershaft sent via the USA it's time to put it back together. one thing i began to consider is the countershaft seal and the small rubber o-ring that is meant to seal down when the OEM nut is tight into the front sprocket. I had a small weep from there, and then lost the bolt on a short ride! altho i replaced the bolt within 50kms, it got me thinking that my spline was having trouble since long before. the weep would mean not enough pressure and the ability of the front sprocket to shake around enough on the spline to cause early wear.

Another detail is the strong pitch on the teeth of my front sprocket which is still quite new (under 1000kms and replaced with a new chain at the same time about 750kms before the spline stripped). It suggests there was a lot of pressure on the front sprocket which could have been caused by the sticking of some links and the fact that my rollers were absolutely knackered on the old chain. They caused half the teeth on the earlier sprocket to shear off! So going back, the weep could have made the front sprocket loose, the old stiff chain links could have also put pressure on the old front sprocket and spline, and the new chain could have been very tight (it was, but not overly tight; 10mm only, but it didn't seem to slacken off after the first 500kms).

I'm now going to a Dirt Tricks Dome Washer, a bit extra slack in the chain, and I found myself a Talon cush hub rear wheel laced with strong SS spokes to an Excel Double Signature rim. I've heard bad things about the talon hub on 950/990 big bikes with big power/torque/weight, but should be fine on the 570...plus the wheel was only $300usd to my door with 5000kms only so worth it!

Hopefully all cleaned up and back together in the next 2wks, but we'll see. Looking forward to riding her again for sure, and learning from the experience of course.
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March 22nd, 2016, 05:48 AM   #34
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I have myself a big box of ordered spares and tools waiting for me at the shop when I get home from work. I just need to put together my enduro before I can tear the motard to pieces (it ended quite badly while ice racing so I hope TLC is all that's needed and not anything major..)
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March 22nd, 2016, 11:41 AM   #35
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IMO don't buy The talon cush hub. I have one on my FE570 and it appears to do little or nothing to absorb the shock to the drivetrain. It has appx 6 rubber washers that are rock hard. The Rad seems to have much better cushioning.
Thanks from LadyBerg and Borgschulze
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March 24th, 2016, 02:38 AM   #36
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Talon vs Rad

Originally Posted by FredE View Post
IMO don't buy The talon cush hub. I have one on my FE570 and it appears to do little or nothing to absorb the shock to the drivetrain. It has appx 6 rubber washers that are rock hard. The Rad seems to have much better cushioning.

I agree that the Rad is better. But I had the option to try a Talon on an Excel rim in very good condition with no marks on the posts at all AND a brand new set of rubbers all for only $400AUD or 265EU...you can't even buy the hub only for that price. I think it's a good experiment and I will use it until i notice no difference OR find another RAD cush hub wheel for an equally good price. Plenty of people here would buy this wheel for $700-$800AUD so i reckon it's still worthwhile to try
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March 24th, 2016, 03:49 PM   #37
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Yes worth a try and better than no cush drive at all. I paid AUD$900 with a blue excel rim straight from the distributor JTR in Qld (my son worked for a bmw dealer) so $400 for just the hub is a good price.
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March 24th, 2016, 05:11 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by FredE View Post
Yes worth a try and better than no cush drive at all. I paid AUD$900 with a blue excel rim straight from the distributor JTR in Qld (my son worked for a bmw dealer) so $400 for just the hub is a good price.
Actually its $400 for the entire wheel mate! talon hub, HD gauge SS spokes, black excel double signature rim

I reckon totally worth it.

That said, I would have love to have the blue rim like you to keep the match
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March 28th, 2016, 05:17 AM   #39
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I have never split the cases on my FE650 so I can't be of any help there. But I must say that I am SOOO jealous of you living in Ahipara! I was over there for Xmas with the in-laws and bro-in-law took my to the beach at Ahipara where the big sand hills are.
You live in riding heaven over there!
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March 28th, 2016, 07:00 PM   #40
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Thumbs up not just Ahipara...

Originally Posted by AxelVK View Post
I have never split the cases on my FE650 so I can't be of any help there. But I must say that I am SOOO jealous of you living in Ahipara! I was over there for Xmas with the in-laws and bro-in-law took my to the beach at Ahipara where the big sand hills are.
You live in riding heaven over there!
Those dunes and the ones up the gumfields are our local secret But mate we have the best riding in the world when you see the North & South Island off-road possibilities...and that's coming from someone who has done a fair bit of overseas riding. Loved Tassie tho!

Let me know if you ever plan a riding holiday, happy to help out. As for the 570, she's nearly finished and will be back online shortly!
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