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July 2nd, 2005, 01:36 PM   #1
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I Ride: Husaberg FE501e 2003
FE400e engine rebuild

finished the rebuild tonight and will i hope race the bike tomorrow.

below are some things i'm sticking in the owners doc. anything you care to comment on or add-feel free to do so...


When trying to find neutral, remember the selector drum is 5 up, neutral and then first-now you can fit the 'star'

It may pay to have the spigot and crankcase machined separately due to movement.

The water 'O' ring in the left cover overlaps with the cover gasket. Cut the cover gasket around the 'O' ring.

If struggling with the woodruffe key infront of the lower timing chain sprocket-just grind the end off slightly. Tightening the nut on the countershaft will draw the shaft right through eventually.

When fitting new mains, tape the old ones as a pair and lay on the workshop floor under the outside of the crankcase half. You'll also need a 10mm piece of wood for good support at the back end of the case-get this right before the crankcase comes out of the cooker. be ready!

The right hand main bearing will give the impression of not being in against the shoulder of the case-but it is. The left-side main looks good though. Why not check how they look visually BEFORE knocking the old ones out?

The little end bush can be delivered loose-order another and another until one arrives that's 'nice'.

You'll need 1200ML of oil to re-fill from a complete rebuild.

Fit crank seal after you're happy that the cases are now closed-for good!

Try and retry to get the single upper dot between the two lower dots as per manual. It's worth pursuing.

The reason the clutch basket won't drop in is because the plastic oil pump gear needs a 'flick around'!

When fitting the gearbox in the L/H case, this is the order; input shaft half in at an angle, output shaft in, press both down and in. Selector forks fitted, selector rods through forks but not located in cases but separate them as wide as they'll go apart from each other. Fit hollow washers on forks, fit the selector drum, locate the forks into the selector drum, push home the fork selector rods into their recess.

When working in the left side, fit the reed valve first so that anything dropped won't go through and in to the centre cases.

Lightly tighten the case screws and then complete after having torqued the head down. this helps with the spigot fitment.

If the camchain link isn't where you want it, turn the engine over 3/4 times until it is. It moves on a bit everytime.

Rocker end float is .15mm (.006") (simon). If you don't have this, fit the rocker screws through and tap the black end caps inward till you do!

If you don't have a ring compressor to help fit the piston in the spigot; turn all ring gaps to face the spigot cutaway side of the piston. Then as you feed the rings in, use the flat face of a flat-bladed screwdriver to 'press down' on the ring gaps whilst wobbling the spigot.

To check for big-end play; fit a feeler gauge down the side of the piston and THEN try pull/pushing the con rod.

Stator wiring is as follows; yellow into a double red, second yellow into a red/white, light blue into a brown, black into black and green into green.

Fit swing arm pivot pin first THEN fit the engine mounting plates, THEN engine bolts. Tighten SAPP first.

Wrecked the gearbox seal? In a panic? Fit the old countershaft bearing and then an 'O' ring as a get-you-out-of-trouble fix.

Don't over hone the barrel. They are prone to ripples and the Nikasil/Gilnasil wearing off.

If the piston shows signs of scoring on the thrust faces-don't touch-as this would drastically reduce the diameter of the piston.


as you can read from the last few comments, i've had some real luck. the motor engineers have my gearbox output oilseal after they must have removed it to skim the block. i didn't get it back and i only discovered it this saturday afternoon at 3pm. i gave up thinking of racing after i'd tried all the dealers.

i went out to the garage and started kicking the dog! as you do. checked my old ducati seals and then just happened to pick up the old countershaft bearing, looked at it and offered it to the gearbox output. it slipped on and in the case perfectly with a little tap o the hammer. fitted an 'o' ring afterwards and then the sprocket. bloody hell lads-i'm in business!

anyway, other than the above it went well!

regards

Taffy
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July 3rd, 2005, 12:13 PM   #2
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update

i took in the 450 B/E and they fitted it but then told me that they weren't happy that the new L/E was any better than the old one in the old rod. so i ordered another one from DCR and it was here for wednesday. sadly i was delivering the 470 back to gary grover and so the machine shop got it Thursday am.

the bloke who fits L/E bushes was out for the day and when i called friday am i said could you do it NOW PLEASE!

then on getting the barrel back i noticed they hadn't honed it so i took it back but we all agreed that a rippled barrel shouldn't be honed (when you have a race on the sunday!). why this has rippled i'm not sure? anyone else ever found this?

anyway, started the rebuild friday 7pm and again after the rugby early on saturday morn.

things done;
new rod assembly c/w big end fitted to crank
20mm little end removed and 18mm fitted
skimmed the block and barrel seperately

i removed the counterbalancer
engineer friend machined the spires on the clutch drum flat
spacer for the counterbalancer to fit the crank
cleaned up gear selector claw again!!
fitted the 35/29mm valve head
checked squish
removed small radiator-fitted std
removed kickstart decomp


fitted;
new mains
countershaft bearing
waterpump seal x 2, bearing, silver steel pin, impellor, circlip
new rings
new flywheel
headgasket
rocker shafts
one follower bearing
kickstart plate and screws
gearshift bush and seal

this is what i found
the compression hadn't gone up even though i'd had the head skimmed. the con rod was measured infront of me as the same length so....???

the counterbalancers absence made the bike vibrate a little more at low revs but was totally unnoticable when riding. you could see the front mudguard bouncing more than usual that's all!

tha tappets were very quiet.

the kickstart would lock at the top and i had no leverage from behind it to get it right but it would work-'in a fashion'.

i can get neutral again!! i had the hub machined and it's good!

bastard to find comp at TDC now! the kickstart lever WAS helping a little after all!

as for the bigger exhaust valves, well i'm afraid i had a 'dead spot' at very low revs. this could be exaserbated by being in second gear leaving a 'dead-stop' corner and trying to build up revs.

if i was in third gear the bike was better and it was better in gears 4, 5 and 6. however if i want small openings the bike is still good.

so what's done it? well i think that it's the valves and not the counter balancer. i can only get this backed up if someone else removes their counterbalancer though.

it could also be a jetting issue. whilst the top end is a gain and i won't lose it-the bottom loss could be jetting based. it feels fluffy. maybe it's the double air that dale once talked of. this is when the air goes past the carb and then-due to the valve overlap-gets pushed back out the carb only to pick up more fuel on the way in again!

so! (eric!!) balancer, jetting, exhaust valves. where is your money fellas!!!

dale has talked of 32mm id downpipes and i haven't got any. this might be part of the solution!!! last time i put a pair of 501 DPs on my 400, i had a 1-2bhp increase up to 7-8,000rpm.

dale has said that 32mm DPs help almost all bikes...

6 months ago i set out a plan of development for the bike and in the middle was a pair of these 32mm DPs. little did i know that they had been measured wrong and that 30mm is the biggest OEM stuff i can fit on an older model.

i guess i now need to look at my next project which is to narrow down the inlet ports. this will gain air velocity and should stop the 'charge repeat' problem.

regards

Taffy
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July 4th, 2005, 03:34 AM   #3
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Taffy did you see all the rugby, your best part would have been the first points then the sorrow drowning ,on the news to night it had the prince shaking hands(twice) with our captain i wont try to write his name its hard enough to pronounce it the jetting needs work because of the valves and as you say the headers probaly effect the running as well ,narrowing the inlet would make it worse ??? who knows i've been a bike mechanic for 25 years owned by own business for 15 i will let you do the testing i would much rather be riding a reasonably reliable machine good luck look forward to your saga continuing
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July 4th, 2005, 04:40 AM   #4
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NZ

can we seperate reliability and money issues! i haven't got a lot of money and yet i have been 'pratting around'. high risk stuff but if you cook an engine-well-i'll say no more... if i had thje money i would have rebuilt it last winter.

dale has indicated that the fuel charge can go in, then out, and then back in picking up fuel twice!

the 400 is beautiful machine and i only regret that it's old. i would buy another tomorrow.

i have measured the inlet ports and they are designed for a 550/650. they are way too big for a 400.

theory;
this means that the inlet charge doesn't compress at speed up behind the inlet valve head IMHO. it 'fluffs in' and it 'fluffs out'.
Just MHO.

regards

Taffy
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July 4th, 2005, 08:27 AM   #5
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The inlet port on my 96 400 was smaller than my 501. Husaberg must have standardized somewhere along the way.
dan
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July 5th, 2005, 04:17 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Taffy

so what's done it? well i think that it's the valves and not the counter balancer. i can only get this backed up if someone else removes their counterbalancer though.
I had none of those symptoms after removing the c/b. I suspect it may be the valves or jetting, as you say. Possibly you header pipes are also helping the dead zone depending on the diameter you are running - which is what, 30mm (o/d) at the mo.?

My experience on both occassions of running without c/b and no additional crank rebalancing has been that the engine is willing to spin up but is less tractable.

Cheers,
Simon
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July 5th, 2005, 04:40 AM   #7
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after a word with dale it would appear that i need a lip to stop the return or i need to get the exhaust chaff further out the system at low revs. larger i/d headers is a very good answer.

i bought a standard system from germany for a FS650, as i believe you know, having been told by UHE members that the id was 32mm but when i got it it has no great id than the 501/550.

yes, it's a 28id and 30od std header.

have you seen the 2C system on ebay? i've never heard of it but it looks a little like an old doma.

have i mentioned that from medium low there is MORE power? i can even ride through the dull area by not lugging the bike. i'd notice it more in wet weather IYKWIM

there is no way i'm going to find a set of 29 or 30 id pipes from OEM so i need to look at the aftermarket pipes.

hope you can tell me a bit about 2C pipes...

regards

Taffy
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July 5th, 2005, 06:17 AM   #8
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The 2C pipes are off an 01 bike, definitely not from a 450 and not a particularly special race system at all. These systems were replaced in 02 with the likes of the current system but they were retained for a while in the US.

There will be no benefit from that system and indeed that year the collector needed modification to work properly. There's a diagram in my gallery covering the required modification of that collector. I have an old 2001 system knocking around at the back of my garage and I can dig it out & measure it up if you like.

The Doma systems for 01 and 02 bergs can be recognised by the fact that they were routed around the right hand side of the engine which in part is why they produced such good low and mid-range compared to the FP. The more recent Domas have been more like the oem design round the left hand side.

Although I can't vouch for the latest versions, Doma has tended to use 34mm o/d headers with 1mm wall thickness whereas FP and Akro use 35mm o/d 1mm wall thickness plus a variety of tapers too. The Doma systems also lack some of that Akro and FP quality in that their bends are not lovely mandrell bends and therefore loose some flow area.

I'm not sure about the 400 OEM headers but the single most effective modification that can be made to the 650 oem headers, if you're happy to chop & swap stuff around, is to get rid of the sharp 45% bend at the exhaust port exit.

Cheers,
Simon
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July 5th, 2005, 09:55 AM   #9
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valuable info there simon. hope our SM friends are sucking this in....

i've seen your mod before to the centre pipe and the 45d corner out the head is sensible stuff as well. nice to see it in print. no need to measure anything on the old OEM stuff i don't want to go that way.

so much must have happened in the 4 months between us joining...

thanks

regards

Taffy
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