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November 17th, 2015, 09:45 AM   #31
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Most of the cleaning up done, yay! As its been taken out of trails service and replaced by a younger girl Ill take the opportunity to give it a thorough clean up plus new plastics, think Ill call her the mean house wife from now on zzz hehe.

Thinking about testing, I wont test the oem ecu as I dont have the vacuum sensor for the Speed-Density map anymore with the new TB and this controls a lot of the fueling below seven degrees openings(or so), so itll be a pain to start and keep it going, off the list.

Bike is now setup with oem exhaust and FP-ecu ready to start, just waiting for a new injector as it got broken in the transport back here then, if most of the liquids stay inside the engine, a dyno test
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Last edited by TomTom; November 17th, 2015 at 09:51 AM.
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November 18th, 2015, 02:31 AM   #32
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You already have a dyno result from your bike completely(except work on cyl head/mapping) stock to compare?
Would be very Interesting to see the differences in 3-4 different setups to see what it exactly does to the bike.
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November 18th, 2015, 09:07 AM   #33
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Bike is started. No issues, started right away, idles well and good response blipping it.

@HusaBELG; I have the dynos from last year, OEM exhaust ported head mapped with the bazzaz unit, and the seat mod aswell. So there will be four different setups to overlay.
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November 19th, 2015, 09:29 AM   #34
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Put it on the dyno and everything worked ok until first WOT pull when the head gasket blew, golden shower I reused the old one so I got myself to blame for being a tight arse haha. New gasket ordered and will be here tomorrow.

FP setup seems to work really well, bike starts up like oem and while warming the engine up in the dyno I didnt notice any problems with transitions at all, impression being its a well done job, given I have the map in there now for the full system.
Have to mention support is top A from FP, stand up guy no doubt.

New head gasket in Ill do the usual 2x4 runs to establish power and then cool down and fit the full doma.

Last edited by TomTom; November 19th, 2015 at 10:48 AM.
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November 21st, 2015, 07:03 AM   #35
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Oh the joy of tinkering...(long post releiving frustration)
Talk about projects can be uphill sometimes.
First the head gasket, thats alright as I did take a chance there, ripped the head off and a new gasket went in, pushing the start button with a fresh gasket, wont idle sputters a bit and I had to open the blade more to have it idle, dribbles and smokes...wtf??? Tore the head cover to check timing, no problems timing is correct.....I noticed the starter acting a bit weird, seemed battery power decreased quite rapidly...mkay, put a bump starter on and no improvement?? Is the bike hard to turn over?, plug out and turned it, nope normal. Massive headscratching or headache if you will :/

Just prior this I took the head off and assumed it had something to do with that, change something and its likely something went wrong because of that, indeed it is likely so but doesnt have to be. Took a brake and a few bells started ringing (not the normal bells and voices inside) battery!? I was (falsly) thinking if I just get the bike started the generator will produce enough to overcome a weak battery, yes thats true for a battery in need of charging, however if it has collapsed it will fuck just about everything up and thats why the bump battery didnt work either, so I went hunting for a new one today, put it in ey presto everything back to normal, phuckiiiiing pjew

Now Im pretty much drained mentally. Tried the bike on the dyno with the map FP provided, it did ok, same numbers up to 8k and then just went sideways. As I broke the AFR bung on the oem exhaust and just welded it shut I cant measure AFR and with all this shit happening I just dont have the drive to map this setup to find out what it could do as Im not even going to use it, hope you understand. So far not much to learn other than the big TB doesnt make low to mid worse, it shouldnt as the restriction should be in the port.

Started mounting the doma system, looks like its a good fit but also a bit longer which is good, rear frame had to come off but thats no biggie, Ill go down and work some more tomorrow, now time for a pint, cheers berg nuttas

Last edited by TomTom; November 21st, 2015 at 07:55 AM.
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November 21st, 2015, 09:01 AM   #36
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It took me a ton of time to get my 663 dialed in, lots of fiddling with the mapping and such. Fun frustration is what I call it.

Low battery, weak battery has been a source of hair pulling for me many times. Once the system gets low my thought is that the spark diminishes to a weak level that won't work or it goes away all together. My battery of choice now after trying a few is a Yuasa Z7S, nothing else period.

FYI - on my 663 I run the stock throttle body bored out a few mm's to I believe 44.5. On dyno runs I do not see any fall off because of a lack of flow. I had my head flow benched with the same throttle body and it flows fine. Put 70+ hp runs down. Biggest difference is the huge change to fueling over say a stock map. Even fiddled with different timing as I can change that with my Vortex ECU, didn't do anything huge to the hp so we just stuck to the stock timing map.

I have messed with a 70 degree motor as much as anyone from what I can tell, other that maybe a pure race shop. Very little on my setup is stock or unmodified.

Cheers
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November 21st, 2015, 09:25 AM   #37
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Thanks for chiming in! I think its hard to get this engine screaming. Ill tune this engine but dont expect too much, 60 something, perhaps get more tq, shape of curve is important aswell, early grunt is top, going round a corner you can blip to a slide instantly.


Originally Posted by Torque Monster View Post
It took me a ton of time to get my 663 dialed in, lots of fiddling with the mapping and such. Fun frustration is what I call it.

Low battery, weak battery has been a source of hair pulling for me many times. Once the system gets low my thought is that the spark diminishes to a weak level that won't work or it goes away all together. My battery of choice now after trying a few is a Yuasa Z7S, nothing else period.

FYI - on my 663 I run the stock throttle body bored out a few mm's to I believe 44.5. On dyno runs I do not see any fall off because of a lack of flow. I had my head flow benched with the same throttle body and it flows fine. Put 70+ hp runs down. Biggest difference is the huge change to fueling over say a stock map. Even fiddled with different timing as I can change that with my Vortex ECU, didn't do anything huge to the hp so we just stuck to the stock timing map.

I have messed with a 70 degree motor as much as anyone from what I can tell, other that maybe a pure race shop. Very little on my setup is stock or unmodified.

Cheers
Chris

Last edited by TomTom; November 21st, 2015 at 09:29 AM.
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November 21st, 2015, 01:08 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by TomTom View Post
Thanks for chiming in! I think its hard to get this engine screaming. Ill tune this engine but dont expect too much, 60 something, perhaps get more tq, shape of curve is important aswell,

early grunt is top, going round a corner you can blip to a slide instantly.


totally agree TomTom, thats why my 700 kicks my 628s butt to the moon

thanks for this thread its nice to read about other peoples fun frustration
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November 23rd, 2015, 12:06 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by bushmechanic View Post
thanks for this thread its nice to read about other peoples fun frustration
Youve had your share I bet reading your threads (kudos!), prolly why its fun to you here No worries, if you read a thread and nothing has gone wrong the whole truth havent been said or the project scope is just too lame
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November 23rd, 2015, 07:04 PM   #40
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I use a 220 cca lithium battery, it only weighs 600 grams as a bonus.
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