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April 15th, 2015, 10:19 AM   #51
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Crankshaft : CYL.ROLLER BEAR.NJ206 ET2XCS46
50330082000
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April 16th, 2015, 01:34 PM   #52
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I have parts list questions:

What bearing can be used for the connecting rod (big end)? Mine seemed OK so I'm not buying a whole conn rod (unless the machinist says it's needed). Is there a KTM part that works? If the axial/radial play is OK should I just leave it?

How about a cam chain? The OEM DID is quite cheap at $23 USD, but I understand it only comes with a rivet link. Where can I get a master link chain in North America?

My piston is with the machinist too, but if he says to replace it I'm looking at this Wossner Piston:Wossner Piston
Is that a good choice?

I'm still on the fence as to whether I should just replace the liner and rings (piston too if the machinist says so) or replace all bearings since I have it apart. Given that I typically never ride between November and March, I don't mind postponing a major overhaul till the off season...

Thanks for the help.

Last edited by KentJ; April 16th, 2015 at 01:37 PM.
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April 16th, 2015, 01:54 PM   #53
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Hey, for what it's worth, I am going to replace only the necessary items and leave the overhaul till next winter. It's time to get riding man.

From all the info I have gathered, it isn't usually an option to replace just the bearing on the conrod (on the big end). See, the needle bearing in the big end uses the rod itself as an outer race and the gudgeon pin and the inner... so essentially, these items bearing just as much as the bearing itself hence the need to replace the entire rod.

I find this very silly... they should be able to install some sort of outer race (maybe a press-fit bearing) to save the rod big end (then to repair the conrod, all you need is a new bearing and a new bushing). This isn't the case.

The little end is a plain bearing (looks like a simply bushing). Plain bearing is a cylindrical face that operates using oil as a film.

---

Cam chain. I bought the OEM. It is pretty good, and quite affordable, but the rivet thing is a pain. I have a tool for a bicycle chain that will work (tested it last night). The local robbers / dealer want $20 to rivet the chain with their tool. The tool itself only costs $50 or so.

If I were to do it again, I would likely buy an IWIS chain with a masterlink clip.

---

Be careful with that piston. If you haven't done so already, educate yourself on the difference between "stage" 1 and 2 pistons from Husaberg. Stage 1 is the normal, stock size. Stage 2 is the slightly larger size for when you have a worn cylinder, etc.

Bushie will hopefully Chime in with the proper dimensions, but that Wossner piston may be too large in diameter to work nicely with a new cylinder. I am not 100% on this, but keep it in mind.

---

I'm sourcing some bearings from the local bearing supplier. I will post my results when I figure it out. Might be possible that the bearings can be found from a supplier such and Canadian Bearings cheaper than from a dealer. I am sure KTM marks up the price when the re-sell them from SKF, NTN, and so on.

Last edited by jmscrttndn; April 16th, 2015 at 02:00 PM.
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April 16th, 2015, 02:57 PM   #54
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My thinking was I could service the conn rod bearing now and save the rod, but I understand that the rod ID IS the race, so you really can't replace them seperately.

I know there is some discussion of using different rods etc, but I'm not the right guy to be experimenting with different engine configurations.

The Wossner is for a bore size of 100.01 mm and the stage 1 liner is spec'd at 100.000 - 100.012 mm. In would appreciate some insight from the experts as to what would fit properly.

My plan was to purchase a new liner from Husbaerg, but I just got an email from my local dealer indicating that the liner (81530005000), cam (80036010000) and cam chain (80036013100) are not available. Shit...

I will try Munn racing to see if they can find them. Otherwise I'll have to get the liner repaired, and I know Taffy has chains and a used cam I can get. It does concern me though that integral parts are not available any more. At this stage it makes be wonder if I should cut my losses or keep going...
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April 16th, 2015, 03:35 PM   #55
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Keep going. That dealer just doesn't have the reach. Those parts are still available from dealers around here. Munn will have it too.
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April 16th, 2015, 05:12 PM   #56
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This from Chip @ Munn just now:

Conn Rod – 80030015000 –no longer available
Cylinder Liner – 81530005000 – 4 weeks out
Cam Chain – 80036013100 – 4 weeks
Cam – 80036010000 – 4 weeks

ugh...

Well I can re-use that cam or pick up a used one. It will probably take 3-4 weeks to get the cylinder replated. Cam chain is dissapointing though.

What about a KTM RFS swap??
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April 16th, 2015, 05:58 PM   #57
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Seriously... that sucks. See if Taffy will help you out. He is reasonable with pricing and understands that we are getting pinched with the exchange rate.
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April 16th, 2015, 11:15 PM   #58
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I have a rod kit, a new liner, a new cam in stock. cam chain as well obviously.

the last con rod right? wow! I got mine this week but that won't last long will it? you see, that 10 year rule again! the liners have to be available for another three years but the rods are 11 years old now and they have stopped them. it isn't going to be pretty in 36 months time is it?

I do a HC 550 piston that takes it to 12.5 instead of the 11 to 1. still very sensible.

as for the rod, you rather miss the point. the rollers themselves are rubbing on two surfaces and it is the bearing that wears. not the inside of the rod and not the pin. you take a pin and bearing and leave it to the expert but usually the pin can be left in and just replace the bearing. with no slop the damage can't start. it's slop that starts the viscous circle.

I also do a stronger little end bush than the original. but it must be fitted while the rod is off the crank.

regards

Taffy
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April 17th, 2015, 02:36 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
as for the rod, you rather miss the point. the rollers themselves are rubbing on two surfaces and it is the bearing that wears. not the inside of the rod and not the pin. you take a pin and bearing and leave it to the expert but usually the pin can be left in and just replace the bearing. with no slop the damage can't start. it's slop that starts the viscous circle.

regards

Taffy
Do you sell just the bearing?
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April 17th, 2015, 02:53 AM   #60
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what do you think!

just go to the web shop and just enter the words that you are thinking and it knows....

Taffy
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