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March 23rd, 2015, 08:43 PM   #11
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Once you remove the clutch the balancer gear is free to move and come out of alignment with the primary (crankshaft gear).

There is no longer anything to hold it in place.

Since the cam is timed off of the balancer, instead of the crank, it is imperative that the dot (mark) on the balancer gear aligns perfectly between the two dots on primary gear while the cam is being positioned for the timing chain?

It seems to me that you MUST use the crank locking bolt to hold the crank at TDC. Then you attach the cam chain while the cam lobes are up (or down) and the balancer gear is in the correct dot alignment position.

Its bad enough that when timing a pre 2001 you must worry about maintaining TDC (no crank locking bolt) and hoping that you have eyeballed the cam into the correct position. Now on this engine you also add maintaining the alignment of the primary pinion gear and balancer gear into the mix but you do have the crank locking bolt which hopefully locks at true TDC.

I don't have the crank locking bolt but I am thinking that I should get one. Can I just use a longer bolt or is the special one really necessary?

Is there a trick to doing this? It looks like it will be difficult to keep the balancer gear and the cam in alignment when attaching the chain.

Without the crank locking bolt is this an impossible task?

Am I missing something?

Last edited by husabutt; March 23rd, 2015 at 09:09 PM.
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March 24th, 2015, 12:30 AM   #12
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feed the chain down the power side until it is an inch past the bottom sprocket

lay the bike over beyond flat slightly - like 10 degrees past flat

tuck the chain onto the bottom sprocket

turn the primary gear with a 30mm spanner flicking the nose of the chain forwards and out with a screwdriver

at a certain point you can come in from the top of the block with a magnet or grab claw

regards

Taffy
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March 24th, 2015, 02:47 AM   #13
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To make your own bolt, buy a Stainless Steel M8x1.25 25mm long Socket Head Cap screw (fully threaded). Cut to approx 23mm and grind the tip at 45deg until the diameter of the tip is approx 4mm.

I like photos, but could not find a good one to help describe. The tip should be almost like this, but leave some meat on the end instead of going to a sharp tip:
http://www.norelem.fr/xs_db/BILD_DB/0/www/750/07166.jpg

Originally Posted by husabutt View Post

I don't have the crank locking bolt but I am thinking that I should get one. Can I just use a longer bolt or is the special one really necessary?

Is there a trick to doing this? It looks like it will be difficult to keep the balancer gear and the cam in alignment when attaching the chain.
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March 24th, 2015, 05:40 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
feed the chain down the power side until it is an inch past the bottom sprocket

lay the bike over beyond flat slightly - like 10 degrees past flat

tuck the chain onto the bottom sprocket

turn the primary gear with a 30mm spanner flicking the nose of the chain forwards and out with a screwdriver

at a certain point you can come in from the top of the block with a magnet or grab claw

regards

Taffy
Which side is the power side? The cam chain cavity nearest the front of the bike?

As you state to turn the primary gear to facilitate catching the chain with the balancer sprocket you must mean to do this with the clutch installed?

Last edited by husabutt; March 24th, 2015 at 05:58 AM.
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March 24th, 2015, 06:21 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by husabutt View Post
Which side is the power side? The cam chain cavity nearest the front of the bike?

As you state to turn the primary gear to facilitate catching the chain with the balancer sprocket you must mean to do this with the clutch installed?
power side = tension side = the front!

clutch installed yup! we do all our engines like this. we build up the left and then drop the chain in -WAF nightmare if you don't!

my flexy grab claw now knows what I want without having to be instructed!

Taffy
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March 24th, 2015, 07:01 AM   #16
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I suppose it's a breeze to install it with clutch installed if you have the engine on the table though.
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March 24th, 2015, 08:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by worstinfinland View Post
I suppose it's a breeze to install it with clutch installed if you have the engine on the table though.
it's a breeze on its side! where's the fuel tank? what other fluids can escape?

I just get a bloody bad back everytime that's the trouble!

donchya just love it when people doubt you sooooo much - it proves how big the gap is.

Taffy
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March 24th, 2015, 08:21 AM   #18
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I would love if you'd put more effort in making your posts easier to comprehend.
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March 24th, 2015, 08:26 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
power side = tension side = the front!

clutch installed yup! we do all our engines like this. we build up the left and then drop the chain in -WAF nightmare if you don't!

my flexy grab claw now knows what I want without having to be instructed!

Taffy
Would you recommend using the dead stop method of finding TDC or is the engine lock up tool / bolt right on the money?
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March 24th, 2015, 08:55 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by husabutt View Post
Would you recommend using the dead stop method of finding TDC or is the engine lock up tool / bolt right on the money?
Again, my $0.02. Pull the spark plug, put a plastic drinking straw o nthe cylinder, find TDC (and look through the valve windows to ensure the cams are pointed in the correct direction, and therefore you have found the correct TDC of the 4T). Simultaneously, look thru the bolt stop hole with a flashlight and look for the mark in the crankshaft...

And thrid failsafe, line up the mark on the flywheel with the pickup (the manual has a photo of this somehwere, I think in the engine disassembly section).

These three thrings combined will help you be sure you are at TDC... then install the engine stopper bolt to be safe. . . or have a friend hold onto the flywheel nut with a wrench to ensure that engine doesn't move...

This is what I do for valve adjustments.
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