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June 8th, 2005, 01:19 PM   #1
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Tight Valve Clearances

Hi,

I just did the valve clearances for the first time on a three hour old 501 FE. They were all to tight so I loosened them off to 0.1. Has anybody else found that the valves were too tight on a new bike on first check.

Also, there is no inspection hole on the cover, and when I took the cover-off to crank it over using a ratchet, there were no TDC marks. Hence I had to use the 'screwdriver down the spark plug hole' method.

Are there marks there somewhere and I'm missing them?

Cheers,
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June 8th, 2005, 03:32 PM   #2
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It sounds like you adjusted the valves 180 degrees out. Are you sure you had it at TDC?
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June 9th, 2005, 12:09 AM   #3
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Its easy to make this mistake.

Don't worry, practise makes perfect
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June 9th, 2005, 12:14 AM   #4
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super and berger

scoobie can't be 180d out? if he's 180d out at the cam (360d at the crank) then you won't get rid of 9mm of tightness now will you!!!!!!!

and if he's 180d out at the crank he would hardly have a screwdriver long enough to find BBBBBBBBBBBBB!!! DC.

scoobie they do tighten up a bit, more so than you'll find them slack. don't panic but now you've done them once keep on top of them until you can trust them. i've just knocked out an inlet follower so i'm a good one to talk.

regards

Taffy
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June 9th, 2005, 12:44 AM   #5
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I believe i have heard from a reliable source on this board that for an e-start the berg likes em a bit snug rather than spot on. this true?
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June 9th, 2005, 01:01 AM   #6
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that's balls!

sorry

lightly tighten, 1/8th-of-a-turn-back, note the slot angle, tighten so it finishes at this angle (say e.g; "3 o' clock").

K.I.S.S.

Taffy
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June 9th, 2005, 01:12 AM   #7
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So taffy, lightly tighten them so there is a bit of drag on the feeler gauge and then back off 1/8 turn? doesn't this make them a bit loose? i always thought that once you felt a bit of drag on the gauge that you were there.

when i adjusted mine last i made them just kiss the gauge, prior to the adjustment the bike would start off the button every time, but was a bi*tch to start with the kick. after the adjustment the bike fired right up first kick even when cold. but the ever so reliable e-start stopped working. of course after the last ride i have not had it back together to test the theory proposed to me by a faithful member here.
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June 9th, 2005, 02:09 AM   #8
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Tight etc

Hi,

Thanks everyone. Because I had no TDC marks to go off - I cranked it around until the inlets had opened and closed and then when the cylinder was at it's highest before the exhaust valves opened and closed I checked the clearances.

Surely I can't be 180 degrees out - that would be after the exhausts had opened and closed and before the inlets opened and closed wouldn't it?

Besides, when I put it back together it fired up off the button straight away and there was no unnecessary valve noise. Would it fire up if it was 180 degrees out?

Cheers,
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June 9th, 2005, 03:26 AM   #9
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scoobie

you were fine mate! don't worry. listen there is one thing to look out for (your PM) and that is that the decomp arm should be unhooked for your first time so you get that little bit of play in the tappets that you can hear when you pull the arm up and down quickly.

risky

i don't know why your bike didn't start but i can say that a sharp kick is better than the leccy boot at starting the bike-all things being equal.

i don't use feeler guages and neither do 90% of owners. we all pinch the screw up and then back off 1/8th-of-a-turn. the thread pitch is .75mm which is 30 thou. 1/8th of 30 thou is 4 thou. 4 thou is .1mm

i don't even know what the tappet clearance is in mm?

try it, doing it easily and quite well is better than something that you strive to do meticulously and fail at.

cheers

Taffy
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June 9th, 2005, 09:37 AM   #10
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Ahhh the infamous 1/8 turn method. I will try this after i get my dang cooling system worked out.
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