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February 25th, 2015, 09:04 AM   #1
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FE450 2005 engine sound

Hello

I fixed my bogging issue with larger iddle jet and adjust fuel screw.
Anyway my bike is at about 200hours and full stock not changed anything before.

I wonder how is my bike's engine sound and what do i have to do? I read some topics on forum and it is about attention to tensioner, can chain, rocker arms.

Please watch the video and comment.


Thanks.
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February 25th, 2015, 11:32 AM   #2
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I think it sounds good.

It could use a top end refreshing pretty soon.

Timing chain is going to be the first thing that will need replacement (I think)
Rocker Arm roller bearings (2)
Cam bearings (2)
Autodecompression Device and Spring
Dual Valve Spring Kit (If you have it apart anyway why not)
O-Ring and circlip snap ring retainer for the manual compression release
O-Rings (4) for the rocker arm holders
Head gasket
Valve Cover Gaskets (2)
Remove carbon from the piston and head.
Cean the carbon off the valves and lap them.

While you have the side cover off replace:

Water pump seals (2)
water pump combination bearing / seal (1)
Water Pump Shaft (balancer) O-ring (1)
Water pump, clutch and side cover gasket
Water Pump Impeller (gets brittle from going through heat cycles, they break coming off sometimes)
Impeller circlip snap ring (1)
Kick start shaft seal (1)
Gear shift shaft seal (1)

Did I forget anything?

Last edited by husabutt; February 25th, 2015 at 12:10 PM.
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February 25th, 2015, 12:18 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by husabutt View Post
I think it sounds good.

It could use a top end refreshing pretty soon.

Timing chain is going to be the first thing that will need replacement (I think)
Rocker Arm roller bearings (2)
Cam bearings (2)
Autodecompression Device and Spring
Dual Valve Spring Kit (If you have it apart anyway why not)
O-Ring and circlip snap ring retainer for the manual compression release
O-Rings (4) for the rocker arm holders
Head gasket
Valve Cover Gaskets (2)
Remove carbon from the piston and head.
Cean the carbon off the valves and lap them.

While you have the side cover off replace:

Water pump seals (2)
water pump combination bearing / seal (1)
Water Pump Shaft (balancer) O-ring (1)
Water pump, clutch and side cover gasket
Water Pump Impeller (gets brittle from going through heat cycles, they break coming off sometimes)
Impeller circlip snap ring (1)
Kick start shaft seal (1)
Gear shift shaft seal (1)

Did I forget anything?
This is so informative thanks. I forgot to tell that I removed side cover before to replace water pump seal. I wonder that, is there two seals or one ? I could not understand parts cheme show 2 seals but there was only one so i took inside one. Water missing stops but comes a little oil this time.

Where can i found Dual Valve Spring Kit??

Thanks
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February 25th, 2015, 12:36 PM   #4
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there is just one water seal, it should be installer with the spring facing you, so in the coolant. if the water or oil leak is small, it is normal (quite common), shouldnt bother you.
Thanks from Blamir
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February 25th, 2015, 01:22 PM   #5
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I was confused by the parts manual as well. The second seal shown in the pm is for the oil passage (or whatever it is) by the sight glass as you can see in this image:


Last edited by basalt; February 25th, 2015 at 01:35 PM.
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February 25th, 2015, 05:42 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Blamir View Post
This is so informative thanks. I forgot to tell that I removed side cover before to replace water pump seal. I wonder that, is there two seals or one ? I could not understand parts cheme show 2 seals but there was only one so i took inside one. Water missing stops but comes a little oil this time.

Where can i found Dual Valve Spring Kit??

Thanks
oem water pump setup explained in many threads here

http://husaberg.org/search.php?searchid=38484

I tapped a 3mm thread into the bleed hole and take a 3mm screw as a spare for long rides in case of a leak

there is also a complete kit available from ORANGEBERG to replace the OEM oil seal with a more conventional setup with the seal running on the shaft

ORANGEBERG WEEPHOLE KIT

there is a wide range of choices for valve springs, the most economical are the KTM dual springs and the best performers are the kibblewhite set,

specifications here

All About Valve Springs! (with nice pics)

best deals are from ebay USA should pay about $160 US inc shipping

kibblewhite 96 96000 | eBay
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February 26th, 2015, 01:14 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Blamir View Post
Where can i found Dual Valve Spring Kit??

Thanks
I sell them fella. better than the KT kit but not as light as the Kibblewhite's.

Husabutt's list looks good except that you will already have the correct auto decomp device but not the spring. you need a modified spring which I have.

Taffy
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February 26th, 2015, 07:05 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
I sell them fella. better than the KT kit but not as light as the Kibblewhite's.

Husabutt's list looks good except that you will already have the correct auto decomp device but not the spring. you need a modified spring which I have.

Taffy
I removed tensioner today and i see that it was the almost end teeth. There was only one teeth. Cam chain needs replacement. What are the prices springs and chain.

Last edited by Blamir; February 26th, 2015 at 07:47 AM.
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February 26th, 2015, 07:14 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Taffy View Post
I sell them fella. better than the KT kit but not as light as the Kibblewhite's.

Husabutt's list looks good except that you will already have the correct auto decomp device but not the spring. you need a modified spring which I have.

Taffy
The decomp could be / is considered a wear item. That is why I put it on the list. Not a high wear item, perhaps a medium to low.

Last edited by husabutt; February 26th, 2015 at 08:36 AM.
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February 26th, 2015, 07:24 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by basalt View Post
I was confused by the parts manual as well. The second seal shown in the pm is for the oil passage (or whatever it is) by the sight glass as you can see in this image:



The second water pump seal is not actually for the water pump but for the pressure oil feed to the crank (I think). Its exactly the same part number as the outer water pump and I would replace it whenever replacing the water pump seals. I keep plenty on hand as they are easy to screw up if you don't have a press and have to hammer them in with a socket. It helps to warm the case (with a heat gun if you have access to one) and put the seal in the freezer for awhile.
Thanks from basalt

Last edited by husabutt; February 26th, 2015 at 07:26 AM.
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